Suburban question

[THEFERMANATOR]

My 95 with 4.10's and the factory heavy duty hitch is only rated to tow 7,200 pounds according to the sticker on the hitch and the owners manual I have. Although I have towed more without problem.

 

[Detroit Dan]

My 95 with 4.10's and the factory heavy duty hitch is only rated to tow 7,200 pounds according to the sticker on the hitch and the owners manual I have. Although I have towed more without problem.

You know what, that has got to be where this guy got his information, off the hitch! I've seen some class 4 or 5 hitches that said 10k/12k WD right on them. So he puts it on the Sub and automatically thinks he can tow that much. Using that logic if I mount a fifth wheel plate off a semi-tractor into the back of my truck, then I can tow 100,000lbs.
People are idiots.

 

[Turbine Doc]

. I mean, my 97 with a straight pipe and 4:10 struggles on hills, hows a stock 3:73 truck going to be?

With 4:10s it should not be struggling, what kind of boost you seeing, have you ever done a dynamic test of your lift pump under load conditions, FTB helps this and you really should look at a reflash, you will think you have a fresh rebuild under the hood wish we were closer and I'd show you how much as reflash wakes it up.

 

[Pillow]

x2 from TD on the reflash! Night and day difference.

 

[Detroit Dan]

I've been dying to get a Heath reflash for years, just can't ever save up the money. I've come close a few times, but it's really the absurd core charge that's holding me back.

With 4:10s it tows my camper great, only it falls on it's face on the big hills. I noticed a big loss this year, first time pulling up north since I put the taller tires on. But, it's not like their 38s or anything, they are nominally 33x9. Even with smaller tires I dreaded those hills, all I can do is bury the pedal and wait. I bought an intercooler to hang, but couldn't make it fit with my plowframe. Need to get a smaller one to clear. I worry alot about the IATs on the long pulls, I go from 65 down to about 40 by the time I get over the top, so it's a long time that the truck is working hard without much airflow, I can feel the turbo cooking the incoming air. Cooling system has always been able to keep up, and the egts never get to 1000 post turbo, but I still worry and I think the IC would help there. Level ground isn't a problem at all, it actually accelerates pretty darn good with the camper on.

I put a brand new lift pump on, I forget how long ago but not many miles. I did the crankcase test and it pulled strong. I've got new injectors, just switched back to a paper air filter. FTB mod should probably be on my list of things to do.

It's not like my truck has no balls. Just driving around empty it's actually surprised some people. Ran a little souped up Honda twice the other day, short distances from a stop light. My gears saved me there, he couldn't get by me because it was over before his rpms got high enough to get him going fast. Can't light the tires anymore since I put the TSLs on, but I used to be able to bark em pretty good with 235/85 street tires.

 

[Turbine Doc]

go to a junk yard get a cheap one that is what I did then see if Bill will take it in trade to offset price, at one time cores were in short supply

 

[Detroit Dan]

go to a junk yard get a cheap one that is what I did then see if Bill will take it in trade to offset price, at one time cores were in short supply

How exact does it have to be, areen't they done off of my VIN? Or is it not even the one I'm sending him that gets reflashed? I'd park my truck and send him mine, but I sold my Yukon so it's my only transport right now. My motorcycle won't pull my landscape trailer and it's too darn cold now anyway.


If I get one from the junkyard does it need to be a 97 6.5 F code, or what exactly? Not many Chevy trucks in the junkyards around here, but I know where there's a bunch of old short buses and 3500 HD bucket trucks that might be willing to donate a 6.5 ecm.
If I could get the loan for the Sub I could afford to be without the 1 ton for a couple weeks. But I don't think the Sub is going to happen until I get some bills squared away. I pulled down $1200 in O/T this month, and it just made a dent in it.

 

[Turbine Doc]

It needs to be a OBD-II, if I were you I'd give Bill a call if you have a good source of cores, ya'll mite be able to barter some of the cost on yours, when they reflash, they flash to your VIN so as long as it was working when donor was parked it will be set to your config, as old data is wiped. I sent him one of mine that went underwater when Katrina hit and he was able to salvage that one.

 

[Detroit Dan]

Hey, I was just on Bills site checking out the GL4 again, yet another price change since last time I looked, it's gone up ten bucks but the core charge is cut in half! Yay me! I can probably get the $3-400 I still need just by knocking over a liquor store.

Second bonus, I looked up the GL4 for the 94 Sub I want, and since it's a different setup it's way way cheaper. Because I figure if I get a GL4 in my truck, then get a Sub I'll need a GL4 for that as well. And a 4 inch straight pipe. And here I go again. Actually the Sub has brand new exhaust, presumably stock. Probably have to get by with just neutering the kitty.

 

[pgguru]

I have a 95 C1500 Suburban "F" With now Real Mods and I pulled a 10000+# boat and trailer to my friends house for him with out and problem. I took it up the Highway Escarpment we have in town and never went under 100Km/h (62M/h). My truck could have towed it for ever.

 

[mr_goodwrench_06]

I have a '99 Sub with a 350. I love the truck and hate the engine. It's gutless. I was scared that I wouldn't be able to get rolling with my 24' Bayliner behind it.

I have a line on a '95 Sub with a 6.5 and a 5 speed. It's a black 4X4 with grey leather interior. I think this will be the ticket for towing the boat.

Bill

 

[w_huisman]

I have a 95 C1500 Suburban "F" With now Real Mods and I pulled a 10000+# boat and trailer to my friends house for him with out and problem. I took it up the Highway Escarpment we have in town and never went under 100Km/h (62M/h). My truck could have towed it for ever.

You have a "F" VIN C1500 truck with 3.42's eh? Did you throw an F engine in it yourself?

 

[Turbine Doc]

My Burb is F VIN C1500 with 3:42

 

[nobby]

This whole suburban designation thing is kind of interesting I am badged as being a K2500 and I have from factory 3:42 with the SF rear and obviously an F engine. Now as I understand from talking to Turbine Doc the rear spring packs were the same for both diesel 1500 and 2500 and as I understand it all diesels came with the 8 lug? So I could just of been easily badged as a 1500 or does this then have something to do with the the fact that mine is a K(4WD)? Funnily enough my insurance labeled it as a 1500.

cheers
Nobby

97 K2500 Suburban, 3.42, 265 Tires, Custom Oil cooling lines, Snorkel Removed and 4" Heath Exhaust and Crossover.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Now as I understand from talking to Turbine Doc the rear spring packs were the same for both diesel 1500 and 2500 and as I understand it all diesels came with the 8 lug?

cheers
Nobby

97 K2500 Suburban, 3.42, 265 Tires, Custom Oil cooling lines, Snorkel Removed and 4" Heath Exhaust and Crossover.

all Diesel burbs are 8 lugged, trucks can be 6 lug as is case with my K1500 truck, I'll have to shoot pics of my springs on the truck later today, be a while on the burb it's in Ms & I'm back in Ga

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Unless my 2500 SUB has special rear springs on it, I can guarantee you that the 1500 and 2500 use different rear springs. I compared my 95 2500 to a 97 1500 and my rear spring pack was almost an inch and a half thicker and the overload spring on mine is almost twice as big as the 1500's. The front suspension was about the same(mine has the snow plow prep front torsion bars on it), but the rear suspension on my 2500 was notably heavier in ride and physical size.