vegtech
WVO Enthusiast
So my buddy broke the crank in his 97 Burn so we did what any of us would have done. We took another 6.5 I
I had bought off Craigslist for $100. The guy claimed he had it rebuilt 50k ago but it lost power and his mechanic first told him it was the turbo so he replaced it. That didn't fix it so he told him it was the pump then the injectors. None of these fixed the no power issue. Then his guy told him it was either head gaskets or cracked heads so he said the hell with it a bought a GM crate motor and that fixed his problem. I tore the motor down to find 1 rocker button missing and the rocker slid off to the side. The push rod was warn half through where it was rubbing against the head. I found 3 lifters that had stuck plungers ans a few push rods with very uneven wear on one end. I don't know which end cause I noticed it after the parts came out of the parts washer. The rod bearings had pits in them. Almost like the had delaminated or something. The crank looked good as did the .020 over pistons and bores. Sent the crank, block and heads to the machine shop. The block was good and the bores cleaned up with a slight hone. The crank polished up nice. The heads were flat with no cracks. Although, I did not like how the pre cups had been "staked" in place. I had never seen that before. They had T cups.
The motor got assembled with new rings, bearings, .010 thicker head gaskets, main girdle and ARP main studs and ARP head studs.
We wanted to go with an HX40II so I ordered racedaymechanic's down pipe adapter and a turbo off eBay. The day before the instal, we figure out that the turbo we got was not an HX40II but HX40WII. Raceday's adapter is for the 40 not a 40W The W has a 4 inch outlet not 3 inch like the adapter was made for. So.........no time to get the right turbo let's make this work. With the motor in and the turbo mounted. I put the adapter on the down pipe and put the V band clamp on loose. I centered the adapter inlet in the turbo outlet with equal spacing all the way around (about a 16th inch) and tack welded it. Then removed the band clamp and the 5 bolts that hold the outlet flange to the turbo and removed the whole thing. I finished the welding inside and out. I smoothed the inside with a grinding stone to make a nice taper to the 3 inch. All went well.
I had bought off Craigslist for $100. The guy claimed he had it rebuilt 50k ago but it lost power and his mechanic first told him it was the turbo so he replaced it. That didn't fix it so he told him it was the pump then the injectors. None of these fixed the no power issue. Then his guy told him it was either head gaskets or cracked heads so he said the hell with it a bought a GM crate motor and that fixed his problem. I tore the motor down to find 1 rocker button missing and the rocker slid off to the side. The push rod was warn half through where it was rubbing against the head. I found 3 lifters that had stuck plungers ans a few push rods with very uneven wear on one end. I don't know which end cause I noticed it after the parts came out of the parts washer. The rod bearings had pits in them. Almost like the had delaminated or something. The crank looked good as did the .020 over pistons and bores. Sent the crank, block and heads to the machine shop. The block was good and the bores cleaned up with a slight hone. The crank polished up nice. The heads were flat with no cracks. Although, I did not like how the pre cups had been "staked" in place. I had never seen that before. They had T cups.
The motor got assembled with new rings, bearings, .010 thicker head gaskets, main girdle and ARP main studs and ARP head studs.
We wanted to go with an HX40II so I ordered racedaymechanic's down pipe adapter and a turbo off eBay. The day before the instal, we figure out that the turbo we got was not an HX40II but HX40WII. Raceday's adapter is for the 40 not a 40W The W has a 4 inch outlet not 3 inch like the adapter was made for. So.........no time to get the right turbo let's make this work. With the motor in and the turbo mounted. I put the adapter on the down pipe and put the V band clamp on loose. I centered the adapter inlet in the turbo outlet with equal spacing all the way around (about a 16th inch) and tack welded it. Then removed the band clamp and the 5 bolts that hold the outlet flange to the turbo and removed the whole thing. I finished the welding inside and out. I smoothed the inside with a grinding stone to make a nice taper to the 3 inch. All went well.
