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Stopped talking about it and did it BRAKES

MACKIN

The Original Sheriff
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It's a pretty straight forward job to do all four corners but time consuming. I have a big truck but I got that puppy up in the air.



I'm kicking myself in the plumbs for selling my cyro rotors as I needed a rotor.


As you can tell ,or I'm going to tell you, burnouts aren't very friendly to your brakes. This is the driver side creamed next to the passenger side front.

A better shot of the biffed up one is below also.


EVERYONE of my pads suffered from heat cracks. Although the front were only less than half spent they were cracked. The rear the same except the outside pad was more than three quarters spent. IF I hadn't done all those burn outs I could have went well over another 60k IMO.
 

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The only pain in the butt piece is the caliper hanger to get off. Be well prepared with a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a 2 or 3 foot pipe for more leverage.

More pictures off different state of disassembled and assembled.
 

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I didn't take any pictures of the back as all I did was swap out the pads. The rotors were in great shape.

I also bleed swapped out the fluid to DOT 3 Synthetic. Truck brakes are once again brandy new!

Finished look.
 

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Maybe I wasn't following, but how many miles did you get out of them? What did you go with for replacements?
 
You can do the D-max rotors without having to remove the wheel bearing assembly? This is a welcome change from my 98, I was so broke in college, I pushed my rotors as far as they would go until I changed them, I actually went through the plate material and into the cooling fins on the outboard side on the drivers side, far enough that I only had 1 brake pad when I took it all apart the 1 of them musta fell out.:mad2: Hopefully those stupid mistakes are behind me.
 
Maybe I wasn't following, but how many miles did you get out of them? What did you go with for replacements?

I had approx 63,000 on the truck. The rears were replaced at about 15,000 when a axle seal went. I have ONLY done light towing in these 63k miles.

Longest tow was 600 miles towing my Jeep home and another 600 miles towing my bike. A attribute all the excessive wear and tear to doing burnouts.

I went all OEM parts bought at my local Chevrolet dealership. No way NO HOW was I going to put Autozone Advanced China JUNK on my truck.

Two years ago I had bought Cyro Coated slotted rotors and Hawk pads I was going to install. I bought them because I knew there was some out of flatness on the front rotors because when rolling to a stop the steering wheel would rotate left and right under braking.

I was lazy in doing the change as I don't drive the truck much. Since in October I'm hauling a 24' trailer loaded with bikes I would inspect the brakes and if needed just change the pads and deal with the wobble.

But after inspection and seeing the rotor damage in the front and being who I am ,I just couldn't say screw it and put it back together like that.

If I had the Cyro rotors which were bought and paid for here I could have installed them but I sold them like a dummy.

Just my luck.
 
You can do the D-max rotors without having to remove the wheel bearing assembly? This is a welcome change from my 98, I was so broke in college, I pushed my rotors as far as they would go until I changed them, I actually went through the plate material and into the cooling fins on the outboard side on the drivers side, far enough that I only had 1 brake pad when I took it all apart the 1 of them musta fell out.:mad2: Hopefully those stupid mistakes are behind me.

Yup

Mine is a dually so I had to remove the adapter. It's a easy job

Nuts to bolts from getting it up in the air removing tires to brake job bleeding entire system to reinstalling the tires it took 6 hrs.

Keep in mind I was working being distracted by my workers and customers on the phone also. :biggrin5:
 
Good work.

While I dont have a dually, I redid mine a year or two ago, and found similar results with cracked pads...that I attributed to "performance" driving habits...I have since mellowed down on stomping on the brakes.
 
Good work.

While I dont have a dually, I redid mine a year or two ago, and found similar results with cracked pads...that I attributed to "performance" driving habits...I have since mellowed down on stomping on the brakes.


I don't think the cracks will effect performance but it does show the heat that is present. These pads aren't riveted but glued also. This may attribute to the longevity people are seeing with these brakes.

I believe I pooched the rotor on the driverside being the dominant braking wheel closes to the master cylinder by doing holeshots. The pad was only slightly worn on that wheel.
 
the rotors dont look uncommon at all. they look decent and a little maching would make them good. where they to thin? if not and you still have them bring them down and i'll clean em up for you to have as spares.
 
the rotors dont look uncommon at all. they look decent and a little maching would make them good. where they to thin? if not and you still have them bring them down and i'll clean em up for you to have as spares.


Nope never turned and can be.
Hey I will do! Thanks
 
I just did my front rotors and pads the other day with SSBC slotted and hawk pads and thought my wear pattern on the inside of my old rotor was bad but your rotor looks much worse Mackin, must of been fun trying to stop quick.

My brakes were giving me the left and right steering wheel wobble too.

They work great now, stops on a dime, well a really big dime :smile5:


DD

.
 
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