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Starter vs. Injectors

WarWagon said:
The 6.2’s and likely these engines are hard on starters with high compression. The 454 starters of this era had a lot of trouble too.

Your replacement will help diagnose the problem. If it later dies try to get one of the aftermarket permanent magnet gear reduction starters out there.

Although they are a wear item some things can send them to the grave faster...

Weak batteries and bad connections go beyond slow cranking. This condition will “brownout” the starter motor with low voltage causing low RPM. This causes the windings to heat up more. (As more time is spent with one winding 'on' before it moves and the brushes turn it off and turn on the next winding.) A hot starter will weaken the brush springs as overheating takes the temper/spring-tension out of metal. (If the windings don’t melt first.)

Use of starting aids can damage the starter as well with violent kickbacks from the engine.

Bad bearings in the starter can cause parts to drag and the starter to loose power.

Bad glow plugs can ruin a starter from excessive cranking and resulting motor overheating.

Really 15 seconds and then give it up for a couple min! Otherwise you will know the bolts well for the starter.
Click to expand...

I saw where some people have put their batteries in series just for their starter - to give their starter a quick 24 volt jump. Is this is a better route? If so, how does the 24 volts not back feed into everything else?
 
Starter wires are pretty easy through the fender with the tire off and the rubber flap removed. I seem to recall the bracket bolt to the block being a 13mm bolt head.
Injectors can be done only removing the turbo heat shield. The heat shield seems like a Chinese puzzle till you figure it out.
 
treegump said:
I saw where some people have put their batteries in series just for their starter - to give their starter a quick 24 volt jump. Is this is a better route? If so, how does the 24 volts not back feed into everything else?
Click to expand...

That is a very-very-very bad idea..
Ted
 
treegump said:
I saw where some people have put their batteries in series just for their starter - to give their starter a quick 24 volt jump. Is this is a better route? If so, how does the 24 volts not back feed into everything else?
Click to expand...

Ted Reminder said:
That is a very-very-very bad idea..
Ted
Click to expand...


:firedevil: Make sure you use some good glue on the cameraman's shoes and film this. The glue will prevent the camera man's self preservation instinct from allowing him to be running away and missing most of the action as the starter spins over very fast smoking and catches things on fire.
 
You can't really test battery's at home unless you have a carbon pile loading machine. If in doubt, replace them or pay $20 to have them tested properly, :thumbsup:

Don't know if I"d run 24 volts thru a 12 volt system, bulbs, ecm, etc probably will go POW. :mad2:
 
treegump said:
I saw where some people have put their batteries in series just for their starter - to give their starter a quick 24 volt jump. Is this is a better route? If so, how does the 24 volts not back feed into everything else?
Click to expand...

Don't reinvent the wheel....The only issue with these rigs seen over all these years is the "starter bracket,"....(No starter bracket = Broken block ear/threaded portion) other than that, starter/starting isn't a problem.
 
Starter sounds slow.IMO
Do a voltage drop test on both Positive and Negative side of your system from the starter to the Batt. That will clear up any questions about poor connections.

If you can get your hands on an inductive amp tester check the draw on the starter. Anything above 200amps is excessive.
 
I used a volt tester and also this - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46972 . to test the batteries. Can someone show me a picture of what I should be using? (Sorry - but it seems like people call 1 thing something and then someone calls it something different). Anyhow - the 24 volt question ...can't seem to find it, but both me and my friend couldn't figure out how that was possible w/o frying everything else in the system Glad we weren't the only ones thinking this.
 
yea, he described it to me - but that cheaper one said it was also a load tester..so i wasn't sure what tool he was talking about. Besides, I like pictures - they help me understand better. That and the explanation of the process on how something relates with the overall system.
 
Got the injectors changed finally!! 7:30pm friday night till 5:30am Saturday morning, with a wood stove and kerosene heater (so I could stay in blue jeans and t-shirt most of the night). Old injectors and some of the new injectors had some resistance coming out/going in....but I do believe its all good. And I relocated the PMD to behind the front license plate holder. Now - when its 30* or warmer or if the engine is warm, then factory glow plug timing and it starts right up...no more 3-4 turn overs before starting. And when it was 20 degrees, I did the glow plug over ride for 10 seconds and it fired right up. Thanks for all your help!! (Oh and I put anti-seize on the threads going into the block for the next time). I think that the hardest one to get to was the driver's side against the firewall...but that may have been because I did it at 4:30 in the morning and I was getting awful tired, haha.

I changed the starter a while back and notice any difference in starting - so it must've been only my injectors and/or pmd location. I intend on taking my old starter and flipping the contact points over as shown in a DP post (that was posted here) - and keep that as a back-up.

Thanks again for all the help!!
 
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