Starter Related Fastening, Bracing, etc Questions

[Husker6.5]

Try using some Locktite red on the threads of the two starter bolts and that they're torqued down to spec. With the brace in place and everything torqued correctly, the starter "shouldn't" vibrate loose. Problem is that if it has done so several times, the threads in the block may be worn slightly and thus the use of the Locktite to help fill the void and prevent them from working loose again.

 

[bison]

Try using new correct bolts with original steel washers from the dealer and properly torque all bolts to spec.
I would not use locktight for this reason,..if a bolt happens to break(and they can) and is glued in with locktight, fat chance getting the stub out.

 

[SnowDrift]

Try using some Locktite red on the threads of the two starter bolts and that they're torqued down to spec. With the brace in place and everything torqued correctly, the starter "shouldn't" vibrate loose. Problem is that if it has done so several times, the threads in the block may be worn slightly and thus the use of the Locktite to help fill the void and prevent them from working loose again.

DO NOT use Loctite Red. Loctite BLUE is servicable without a torch.

I don't think it will work loose again if the bracket is in place, though. I've never used Loctite on any starter bolt, whether heavy diesel engine or gasser.

 

[Husker6.5]

She said the starter is still working loose even with the missing brace attached. Locktite red 242 IS removable with hand tools (it comes in a red tube and dispenses as a blueish liquid that cures to a rubbery-plastic consistency that fills thread spaces and is slightly adhesive when anaerobically cured), I've used it several times in equipment at where I worked in maintenance at that was subjected to constant vibration (they were vibrating sorting machines) and we couldn't keep fasteners from working loose repeatedly. The problem is that after vibrating loose several times, the internal threads gain a few ten thousandths of clearance so even if you run a tap in they don't recut to new, plus a new fastener doesn't properly engage the worn internal threads so you don't get the proper interference contact even if torqued to spec. The steel starter bolts are harder than the cast iron block they screw into, the vibration of working loose several times has damaged the threads in the block. While adding the missing support bracket dampens the vibration and helps support the weight of the back of the starter, the damaged threads in the block, even with new starter bolts torqued to spec, won't hold and will work loose yet again.

 

[3500GMC]

Try using new correct bolts with original steel washers from the dealer and properly torque all bolts to spec.
I would not use locktight for this reason,..if a bolt happens to break(and they can) and is glued in with locktight, fat chance getting the stub out.

Sounds like the voice of experience..

Not a fun experience.

 

[SnowDrift]

She said the starter is still working loose even with the missing brace attached. Locktite red 242 IS removable with hand tools (it comes in a red tube and dispenses as a blueish liquid that cures to a rubbery-plastic consistency that fills thread spaces and is slightly adhesive when anaerobically cured), I've used it several times in equipment at where I worked in maintenance at that was subjected to constant vibration (they were vibrating sorting machines) and we couldn't keep fasteners from working loose repeatedly. The problem is that after vibrating loose several times, the internal threads gain a few ten thousandths of clearance so even if you run a tap in they don't recut to new, plus a new fastener doesn't properly engage the worn internal threads so you don't get the proper interference contact even if torqued to spec. The steel starter bolts are harder than the cast iron block they screw into, the vibration of working loose several times has damaged the threads in the block. While adding the missing support bracket dampens the vibration and helps support the weight of the back of the starter, the damaged threads in the block, even with new starter bolts torqued to spec, won't hold and will work loose yet again.

I agree with everything you said, here, but your first post called it "Locktite red" and here, you're saying "Loctite red 242". The 242 does look like it comes in a red tube (For some reason I thought last time I bought it it was actually in a blue tube, but I can't say for sure), but it's still blue liquid, like you said and says "Blue 242" on the tube. I think we both have the same idea in our heads, but I wanted to clarify for the poster that she does not want to use the red Loctite, but, rather she wants the blue formula.

If it's working loose and is definitely torqued properly, I might still try external tooth lock washers on the starter bolts, though, or even an Nord Lockwasher set before I used Loctite of any type on the starter bolts.

 

[WarWagon]

One should also check the starter for worn bushings in the nosecone and/or a bent shaft. It may be a good idea to put a new unit in. I suggest a Powermaster or other brand new, not reman, unit. ESP if you use locktight...

 

[bison]

I agree with everything you said, here, but your first post called it "Locktite red" and here, you're saying "Loctite red 242". The 242 does look like it comes in a red tube (For some reason I thought last time I bought it it was actually in a blue tube, but I can't say for sure), but it's still blue liquid, like you said and says "Blue 242" on the tube. I think we both have the same idea in our heads, but I wanted to clarify for the poster that she does not want to use the red Loctite, but, rather she wants the blue formula.

If it's working loose and is definitely torqued properly, I might still try external tooth lock washers on the starter bolts, though, or even an Nord Lockwasher set before I used Loctite of any type on the starter bolts.

I agree.

Locktight has its uses,but not on these 2 bolts for reasons i stated.
I would rather drill a 1/16" hole trough both bolt heads and use a piece of steel wire to tie them together to secure them in place as they used to do with bolts in critical places in equipment before the invention of locktight.

 

[ak diesel driver]

safety wire is still pretty widely used.