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Starter Bracket!

83GMCK2500 said:
On edit...why does it not surprise me that GM uses a mix of standard and metric fasteners?:mad2:
Click to expand...

They even used 3/8" studs for the bellhousing to engine connection. Major PITA when I'd bought long metric bolts to mount the engine on the stand. Took about 30 min digging to find some long 3/8 bolts.
 
83GMCK2500 said:
5 - Bolt M8x1.25x18 (So yeah, an 8MM bolt 1.25cm long, or real friggen close to 1/2" with pitch of 18 on the threads:D) packratt & 94K30 were right.
4 - Nut, Hex Lk (Lock?) 1/4-20X.257 (Sounds like a standard 1/4"x20 lock nut)
3 - Washer 1/4 I.D., 1/2 O.D. 1/16 Thick

On edit...why does it not surprise me that GM uses a mix of standard and metric fasteners?:mad2:
Click to expand...

Thanks alot for that detailed info. Will make it a one trip go at the H/W store...

BTW, them other guys may be right, but it sounds so much nicer coming from your avatar!
 
M8x1.25x18, is almost 3/4" of an inch long(0.708"). The 1.25 is the thread pitch, 1.25mm thread to thread, like a 3/8"-16 is 1/16" thread to thread.
 
83GMCK2500 said:
Thank you for the correction, I figured 18 meant 18 threads per inch.
Click to expand...

No problem, at least you found the exact bolt size, I just knew it was 8mm and about 3/4" long but I wasn't for sure on the thread pitch. I figured you were thinking of a standard 5/16" course bolt which is almost the same size that has 18tpi. I just spoke up because I didn't want him using too short of a bolt going into the block.

Did you get it fixed Matt?
 
Matt Bachand said:
Just ordered a starter brace, anyone know the screw lenth / thread type of the bolt that holds the bracket to block
?
Click to expand...

I just ordered the bolt too when i did mine. it's worth it to get the right one. I have extra starter bolts if you need em. I had to buy them in a 4 pack. when I put the bracket that was missing off mine back on as a saftey precaution, not knowing how long it had been like that, I changed that starter bolts as well in case they were stressed.
 
Sounds about right.
Slightly bigger than a 1/4 inch and it has the coarse mm thread.

Trick If you take the RF tire off and remove the rubber flap over the top A arm you can easily access the spot on the engine to install the bracket.

Best
MGW
 
Well, trying to fix it now. THe closest bolt i found was

8mm-1 25x20mm

I figured its the same thing but 2 mm longer??

Maybe its not, is 20 the thread count? I can get it to turn a few times but that is it. It's either the wrong thread, or I need to tap out my 2 year vacant hole.
 
You may want to get the 16mm. If the hole is hitting something at the top end, the 20mm will be too long. At least the 16mm will already thread in there.

Or, you can put some extra washer. Like a locking washer and regular washer.
 
JMJNet said:
You may want to get the 16mm. If the hole is hitting something at the top end, the 20mm will be too long. At least the 16mm will already thread in there.

Or, you can put some extra washer. Like a locking washer and regular washer.
Click to expand...

Ok, so that is length, i will go for a 16, making sure that was correct thread, I'll still need to tap it, i can only get it in 3 threads worth, and with little room to work in there i can't torque it anymore and its not easy for sure.

this bracket was the only reason I paid the first time to have it done, ... Didn't know it was there couldn't figure out what was holding it on... in a jam... damn lazy mechanic (friend of mine to boot) can't put the thing back on. He even cut a 1 ' section of my tranny cooler... so now i have a piece with 2 fittings that leak a tidbit too.... argh.

This was 3 years back when I was nervous about workin on 'the big diesel'... lol

Do it yourself.
 
IIRC I had to chase mine. Can't remeber what size but pretty sure it was metric. I knew I had the right bolt cause I ordered it with the bracket so I used it to match the tap.
 
83GMCK2500 said:
5 - Bolt M8x1.25x18 (So yeah, an 8MM bolt 1.25cm long, or real friggen close to 1/2" with pitch of 18 on the threads:D) packratt & 94K30 were right.
4 - Nut, Hex Lk (Lock?) 1/4-20X.257 (Sounds like a standard 1/4"x20 lock nut)
3 - Washer 1/4 I.D., 1/2 O.D. 1/16 Thick

On edit...why does it not surprise me that GM uses a mix of standard and metric fasteners?:mad2:
Click to expand...


I just ordered the starter bracket and new starter bolts for the blazer as it's missing the bracket. I"ve got the 1/4x20 lock washer and nut. I do not have the bolt that holds the bracket to the block. It's a goodwrench crate motor so i have no idea what year it is. i'm guessing it would be the same M8x1.25x18 bolt?
 
I do believe that the 8mm is correct.

Far too many people leave the bracket off and pay the price of a broken starter nose housing or broken starter bolts or worse, A broken block.

The bracket and the wires are easily installed with the RH tire off and the rubber spray flap removed.

Takes all the fight out of the job for sure.

MGW
 
Thanks much MGW.

How's your project coming along? i read the another 6.5 down thread.
 
I ran a 25mm long stud in the block,with washer and nut to clamp the bracket. That way i dont have to hunt for the hole with the heatshield hiding it.
 
Project is back on track.
Although I ran into an "I WANT ISSUE" that the cubic checkbook could not handle

Wanted fresh heads, new forged crank and on it went.
After looking at the available funds I decided that the Forged crank was out of the question. ($943 plus shipping)

A scat crank is about half that.

I pulled my crank from the corner where is has sat for several weeks and washed it up this morning.

Things look sweet. Gonna go right back in and back to work.

The heads will likely go back too but the jury is still waffling a bit on that subject.

Gotta be a lot more frugal than I would have liked.

Hope your starter bracket thing goes well.

These have a nasty habit of going MIA after a starter change in mnay cases for sure.

MGW
 
I've never felt more comfortable starting my truck after putting my bracket back on after a mechanic gave it the ol' toss....

I had to re-chase my hole, but now I worry none.
 
I just finished putting a starter in my 98. The support bracket bolt to the block was only half tight and the starter end never had a nut on it so although it did provide some support it could have helped in the end bearing disintegrating.

The block bolt is 8mm x 1.25 x 18mm long. and the starter stud size is 1/4-20

In SAE bolts the number follwing the size designates the threads per inch.

In metric the pitch designates the mm between threads.

So 3/8-16 would be 16 threads per inch, not 1/16 thread to thread

If you want to no the grade of a bolt you look at the markings on the head.

On SAE bolts, if it has no lines on the head it is a grade 2, softest bolt
If it has 3 lines spaced evenly around the head it is a grade 5, common grade
If it has 6 lines spaced evenly around the head it is a grade 8, hard grade
If it has more than 6 lines or says L9 on it it is very strong.

On Metric bolts it will show 8.8, 9.8,10.9 or 12.9
8.8 is the common grade and the higher the number the stronger the bolt.
 
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