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Stanadyne lubricity Addititive - what is it?

S

Sand

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Whats in the Stanadyne fuel additive for our lift pumps? It stinks funny, I cant identify any known solvent or fuel from the smell. When it evaporates it leaves a sticky residue. I had a general browse around but couldnt find any reasonable info or guesses. Anyone have an idea?
 
What is it you ask? What is in it? 2 word answer to both: Good Shit.

My thoughts anyways. :)

Its about all my Duramax has gotten so far.
 
Anyone ever sent some into blackstone for a wt rating to see how thick it measures? I havent, but playing with it vs oils will give you a clue.

So everything on the list is basically oil, gasoline, solvent, cetane booster, and junk to get a low flashpoint so it all burns away instead of leaving deposits in the cylinder. It is all hydrocarbons from crude oil when they are making fuels.

Thanks to the msds we know most everything in there...

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Hydrotreated light distallates is oil that has underwent some process treatment of water- if I had to guess it is the same treatment that is done to engine oil-It gets heated to 400-600 degrees f in the absense of oxygen, gets flash cooled with water to crack off the shortest part of the hydrocarbon chain, then is reheated to 195f where the water and oil naturally seperate. We dont know he viscosity of this oil to start with, but my donut is bet against 10-12wt.

Next is 2 Ethylhexyl nitrate which is a cetane booster. Basically any fuel additive that people add and notice a drop in power they think doesnt work, so this crap is added to keep sales up, but it would work better without it truth be told. At least this is hydrocarbon heavy and not corn alcohol rich junk.

Naptha is c5-c10 just like gasoline, but is not a full refined product. So it will mix well and is more hydrophobic than gas. If it is sitting in a jar on he table, you would think it is some old gas by the feel and smell- which could be a bad thng since this is where the h2s (mega deadly gas)hangs out.

Next is EGME more commolnly EGBE is a cleaning solvent. It is what is turning into the goo when all the realky flammable stuff evaporates. It is just the cleaner in there. Same solvent, aka friction modifier, that is in your atf.

Trimethylbenzene is getting so light in the hydrocarbon chain that it is closer to propane than gasoline. It is cut back into gas because it helps it ignite easily. This one puzzles me why it is in here unless the cost of seperation just makes it better to leave it.

Naphthalene is super gogo juice, high power additive. Any oldschool guys that knew to soak mothballs in the gas tank- this was what you were adding. No friggin way they are adding this in on purpose, its too expensive once it is seperated, they just cant get it all out.

The last item is basically same as trimeth above. Its toxic crap so they list it, but they just cant get it all out. This small of an amount is not going to make any impact.

Its good stuff. I like engine oil, atf, and if I add too much, then a cetane booster. Buying this stuff just gets all the levels exact and doesnt leave a puff-o-smoke at the stoplight under hard acceleration.
 
Will L. said:
Its good stuff. I like engine oil, atf, and if I add too much, then a cetane booster. Buying this stuff just gets all the levels exact and doesnt leave a puff-o-smoke at the stoplight under hard acceleration.
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Will do you use one or the other, or both mixed? ive always used lucas fuel treatment but if oil and/or atf is as good or better ill use that. lucas stuff aint cheap.
 
Jakec said:
Will do you use one or the other, or both mixed? ive always used lucas fuel treatment but if oil and/or atf is as good or better ill use that. lucas stuff aint cheap.
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I use engine oil or atf, which ever is handy. Probably not the best method, because since there is not a set habit, there are times I don't have something in the truck to add when fueling. Keep in mind a db2 is far more welcoming than a ds4 of darkened fuel.

Im not the guy to copy here. Im like the dr. that doesnt go to th gym -I know what to do, I just don't make it happen like it should.
 
Jakec said:
Will do you use one or the other, or both mixed? ive always used lucas fuel treatment but if oil and/or atf is as good or better ill use that. lucas stuff aint cheap.
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Lucas has been found by many tests to not do anything but leave you lighter in the wallet. I remember the lubricity study done 10 years ago found it actually made the fuel have less lubricity as it actually increased the scar done during the test. I used to run it until I seen some of the test results done when ulsd 1st came out, haven't touched it since.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Lucas has been found by many tests to not do anything but leave you lighter in the wallet. I remember the lubricity study done 10 years ago found it actually made the fuel have less lubricity as it actually increased the scar done during the test. I used to run it until I seen some of the test results done when ulsd 1st came out, haven't touched it since.
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well shit. I guess ill be getting some atf today. so its kind of a toss up between atf, 30w and 2 stroke oil then?
 
Jakec said:
well shit. I guess ill be getting some atf today. so its kind of a toss up between atf, 30w and 2 stroke oil then?
Click to expand...

You may as well run the Red dyed off road diesel fuel with the ATF because if they dip your tank and see the red from the ATF you are doing the time $$ regardless of the crime of on or off road fuel in the tank. Think about the risk and use some other substance that isn't making inspectors see red. MMO (a cleaning solvent) and ATF come to mind as a bad color to add to diesel fuel making you look like a tax cheat."But I never get my tank..." Then why not save some money and run the dyed diesel too?

The list @snarl95 is pointing you at has many choices that are not dyed red. Some stuff designed as a diesel fuel additive gets results without the ATF/30wt/2stroke oil downsides. However #1 on the list, Biodiesel, has some bad side effects like hygroscopic and more prone to diesel bug infections. 2 Stroke is about the only thing that can make our engines smell worse as that adds a distinct 2 stroke outboard engine smell.

None of the testing say anything about deposits, ease of starting, or smoke out the tailpipe. For grins here is 2 stroke oil testing in it's intended application: http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oiltest.htm

Cranky as ole Patch is with a FUBAR 6.2 maxed out DB2 pump*, from the second it was bolted in, I will note a difference Power Service vs. 2 stroke TC-W3:

2 stroke (1/2 quart aka 16 oz to 24 gal diesel) is hard to start on a hot 90+ degree F day with lots of glow plug and enough white smoke after startup to wonder if some GP's are no longer with us. Acts like a sticking injector or two. (IMO the Fire goes out in a cyl or two) That is till the prechambers get warmed up with load or RPM. Smokes black under load more.

Power Service Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost (10-20 oz to 24 gal diesel) First off this stuff is like putting perfume on a skunk. It smells like an old lady when her cap fell off the perfume bottle. Even the residue on the tank funnel will fume up the garage. Regardless it appears to start easier with less smoke at full power and load. Starts easier as in it starts without the above drama, no missing, no white smoke after starting.

*Not enough cold advance at idle balanced with too much advance at higher RPM. It will hot start and that is the only reason I run the pump... YMMV like I said it's not that something isn't quite right on the thing, but, I would be surprised if anything was actually quite right at all. I am running 2350 pop PSI injectors that may or may not affect this pump - they didn't on the last one.
 
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I put the cheapest 30wt in it I could find... no additives, just plain old oil. Stuff so cheap I wouldn't run it in my lawn mower. Bill Heath laughed at me when I asked him if I should switch to something more expensive, said it's all he ever ran in his, too.
 
I thought the red dye was a chemical reaction on the litmus paper?
I mean yeah, if it looks red they'll say something, until they actually test it.
But what do I know, that's just something I read in a big diesel fuel article awhile back.
(Note: I use actual diesel additives anyways. Won't run atf)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Bill used to use the SAE 30, but in recent years, they switched to 2 stroke oil, from what he told me. They mix 1 oz./2 gallons of diesel. This was from a 2011 conversation.
 
Atf will not get you in trouble as they know alot of guys use atf as an additive. Just because it looks red doesnt meen it will glow under a black light, and that is there 2nd check. The red dye will light up under a black light, and is the red flag for running off road fuel.
 
Read the link to the study, rember to read the big explination on the pdf about the untreated fuel all testing was done with. Really consider that most (mine included) places now run 5% biodiesel mixed in which maxes out the benifit of adding bio for lube purposes. So when I don't mention bio in my fuel, it is already there.

I run a larger ratio than in the study, and we did some of our own. There is a huge difference in "ashless" oils vs ones with ash. EPA driven ashless, just like ulsd is far less lubricating. If you are not willing to do some tesiting on your own dime, or like me- able to play with the equipment after hours once in a while, read the study and copy what is learned there.
Keep in mind I will not own a ds4, so I can run molasses through my IP and it just keeps on chugging.

As for the dye- idk if it has changed in last decade and a half, but i was at fuel terminal where it was added to diesel for marking off road, and added to the tranny oil. It came ot of the same barrel. But it is a mixture ratio that has it detectable. It gets detected by the paper, wax on end of a stick, etc. as for black light- i didnt ever test it. I guess enough could accumulate to be detectable over time- Im not sweating it. If it does and I get a ticket, I have tons of proof (like this thread) I dont run off road fuel on road,it is just from my additives and mechanical repair. If the judge fines me, so be it. I can make it up afterwards by begining to run stictly wvo.

I run atf more as a cleaner for the injectors, valves,etc than as lube- with lube being secondary. Again volume used to hit lube saturation point is key. I know many service shops that give me free used tranny fluid to filter and run, and 1 guy that I give 1/2 the atf and oil to and he runs it through a centrifuge for both of us, until he moves to Alaska next year.

Btw, the test of used engine oil also was probably not ran through a cf. that made an amazing difference in our testing. Carbon deposit filled oil is not so smooth and wear free, hmm imagine that.haha I have dumped in 195 degree oil after an oil change straight into my tank on a couple rigs, but that is not the "A" answer, but whats that ratio? 2 gallons of oil to 20 gallons of fuel. Next service =fuel filter time.

I've mentioned here a few times about 195 degree fuel temp. Water seperates autmatically there. That is how hot it HAS TO BE for oil (engine or atf) to mix in 100%. If the oil is added into fuel colder, most of the lubricating properties are lost. I dont get why-the engineers tried explaining it to me, i just learned heat and mix or dont mix.

Db2 can run off 100% engine oil or 100% atf. Done them each a few times. Those of you with ds4, it is not so nice for you.

I run what I run because it is what is convenient and affordable. If you can afford it, and keep a bottle in the bed of you rig for fill up time, optilube it, and make sure your gas station is running at least 2% bio (most of the country now runs 5%).

In the end, its like "what brand of engine oil and how often to change it". I know some guys that have never added anything to their fuel, only change fuel filter when it plugs up and still get 175-200k out of a pump. Vegas lucky? Maybe. Or maybe since the lsd caused so many problems when it was new, then ulsd did the same, all the lubricants and emulsifiers that are mandated by unky sam to be added before we buy the fuel that its not that critical anymore. IDK
 
I've started seeing b-20 pop up down here in Florida in recent months. I'm not a big fan of it myself. It does smooth out the engine, but it comes at a cost in power. If you're trying to pass emissions though, it's the ticket. Even on a 95 degree day I could bately puff smoke with it. As to the dye, I've taken a blacklight to atf and didn't notice any of the dye glow, shined it on some offroad diesel I had, and BOOM it GLOWED a nice bright red. Only thing that lights up better is dexcool antifreeze(handy little tidbit to know is dexcool has dye in it to find leaks).
 
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