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sputter/bucking under load

Detroit Dan

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Epping NH
I looked thru the diagnostic checklist, didn't see anything similar.

Towed my big camper last weekend, was difficult getting it up the little hills due to a sputter I encountered. If I held the throttle open enough to try to keep it from losing speed, it acted like the fuel was getting shut off and turned back on quickly, every few seconds. If I let off it immediately went away. And it wasn't like a steady sputter, it was just an individual buck repeated every few seconds. Not what I think of as fishbite, and that's more a PMD problem isn't it? I have pulled this trailer up to the mountains with some real hills, and while it slows drastically and heats up and falls on it's face, limping over the top at 40, it has never done this before. I'm actually glad this trip wasn't to the mountains, because I doubt that I would have made it up the real hills.

I replaced the fuel filter, but the old one didn't look bad. No SES light, so I don't think there'd be any codes. I also don't think it went into limp mode, because normally if I stress it too much the SES light comes on and stays on for a couple days. But I'm not sure about limp mode, I can't really tell when it's loaded.

I thought maybe the computer was detecting high air intake temps and cutting back fuel, but never seen it do it in such a way that would make the truck buck like that.

I do have gauges, however my EGT gauge is not hooked up after replacing exhaust, new system didn't come with a bung. Need to get that taken care of. In the past, with 3" system EGTs never got over 1000 or so pulling hard in the mountains, so I've never worried about EGTS much. My boost was reaching 13 and staying there, when the truck is empty I can't get it much past 10, which is where I set it. I thought about dialing the TM back to 10 while I was loaded, but it was only a short trip. Also, the water temp got high a couple times, like it usually does, but came back down, and wasn't at all synched to the bucking, it occurred even when the temp was under 200.

In the last 2-3 years and 20-30k miles I've done the lift pump, remote Dipaco PMD, stock Bosch injectors and 60gs, air filters clean, cleaned CDR a couple times, pulled radiator, flushed and pressure washed it, replaced fuel tank last winter and sock was fine. I've never touched the timing.

While changing the filter I noticed that the EGR or whatever it's called, the little 1 inch line that goes back into the air intake just ahead of the turbo had more oil pushing out of it. It's always had a little oil there but it seemed worse.

Feels like either fuel delivery or computer cutting back, but I don't know. I guess I should think about checking fuel pressure (need to learn how), any other ideas?

I've been wanting to do an ATT and a Heath GL-4 (in that order), but I don't want to spend that kind of money and still have this same problem. Don't know if either will correct the problem. I'm certainly not going to try to take the camper up north this summer if I can't fix this.
 
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As a side note, I unhooked the trailer and went for a blast around town, the truck was running like a scalded ape. Yesterday I put two yards of heavy wet bark mulch on it, no idea what it weighed but I couldn't even tell it was there. No sputter or bucking at all under hard throttle. Which reminds me, about a month ago I had a huge load of wet compost, maybe 3 yds, and it was heavy but no bucking under acceleration. Obviously neither load was heavy as the camper (10,950# gvw) but should have been heavy enough to load the engine if there's a problem.
 
I usually have to change my lift pump about once a year.

why, is the fuel especially bad there? My original lasted at least 7 years, so I wasn't expecting I'd need to replace it again already. If it's going or getting weak, do you think it would cause that bucking under only a heavy load? I will have to check it to see if it's running.

Seems to me it would do that under WOT regardless of load, but maybe I'm wrong.

More I think about it, the more it is like what happens if I try to drive too fast on the highway. I rarely get near a highway, but if I push it up over about 80 mph (my speedo is way off, so I'm guessing here) it sputters and falls on it's face and I have to let off. So maybe it is somehow a fuel delivery problem. When I first got the truck and it had little bitty tires on it, I used to be able to run it up to about 95-100. No chance of doing that now, even though my tires are much taller, I have no top end. WHich reminds me, I've also replaced the speed sensors on the transmission when i was trying to fix a tranny issue 2 years ago.
 
Check the LP pressure. There are a lot of thread on that lately. With a lot of things made in China, things don't last as long as the original.
 
The diagnostic checklist items dont cover exact problems, its to concisely relay the status of your truck components, so that we can understand the conditions or your issue.

Lift Pump is the likely culprit, and why everyone with a 6.5 should know how to check the LP pressure with their eyes closed [I guess someone else would have to tell you what the gauge reads :)]

The checklist would have you check this and avoid all the other discussion.

And unfortunately you can get good pressure at idle, but under load the LP stops being adequate. I observe on mine that with engine off I get 7psi, at idle I get between 4 and 5psi, but if I punch it or have heavy load I see it go to 0psi, and sometimes vacuum, which would cause your problem. So youll have to do like everyone else and run a line up to the windshield or tied off to the mirror or something, or just put a gauge in the cab. And observe it under load.

I have had mine zip tied to the windshield wiper and 100mph, it has been there for 3 weeks. It doesnt rain here much.

There is actually a service bulletin for the 6.5s, for stumbling and what not that recommends disconecting the LP to filter manger and blowing out the fuel lines with air compressor, because it gets gunk and crud in the fuel lines too.
 
I'm pretty religious about filling up only at my local Shell, years ago I had problems with Irving, ever since switching I've found my fuel filters last way way longer and never have problems. And my filter looked good. Haven't had a chance to check anything else yet. But I did get it to do the bucking with the truck unloaded, got on the highway and held it wide open and it was doing it. Long as I keep it under about 3/4 throttle it goes great. I'm going to see about checking the lift pump and fuel pressure. I've been spending what tiny amount of free time I get working on bodywork.
Thanks for the responses.

Oh yeah, additives, I use Power Service in the grey bottle, only occasionally in the summer time. I recently added kind of a lot by accident, maybe that shook something loose?
 
Sounds just like an inadequate LP. Probably dropping to vacuum from the IP at WOT.

Also, make sure to add in some kind of good lubrication if youre using ULSD #2.
 
why, is the fuel especially bad there? My original lasted at least 7 years, so I wasn't expecting I'd need to replace it again already. If it's going or getting weak, do you think it would cause that bucking under only a heavy load? I will have to check it to see if it's running.

Fuel here is fine as far as I know. Only problems I know of here is warmer gel point and no lubrication. That could be a factor but I would think other states would have fuel problems.
 
A partially blocked filter will cause "fish bite" under load, as will a lift pump that is starting to give out. Bad fuel can be gotten at anytime that is 1st thing to check, check lift pump with gage at load, another posibility is in tank fuel "sock"
 
A partially blocked filter will cause "fish bite" under load, as will a lift pump that is starting to give out. Bad fuel can be gotten at anytime that is 1st thing to check, check lift pump with gage at load, another posibility is in tank fuel "sock"

filter was fairly new, I changed it anyway but old one didn't look bad at all. When I changed the fuel tank during the winter the sock looked perfect. seems like it's gotta be the lift pump. This is the first vehicle I've owned long enough to replace things more than once. I just did my second complete exhaust system, guess I'm starting over again already. I hope I can fix some things I haven't done yet, before repeating all the things I've already done.
 
Had a "new one" on mine <5K on it get partially blocked, looked good, truck ran like raped ape by itself, hooked up my 5600# gn trailer empty to it, and it was all I could do to make 40 mph with it, changed the "new" filter and I was able to pull it 75 mph all day loaded to 18K with my backhoe on it, same thing when I got a snotty sock in the tank, lift pump is easy enough to change as well, they do get weak over time.
 
You need a Racor or other pre lift pump filter


If that's the case how come I'm still using the filter in my manager for 2 years? I guess anything is possible I just blamed it on cheaply made parts. I am seriously considering a Walboro and a prefilter.
 
Bought pumps from just about everyone up here except the dealer. Napa, Schucks/Oriellys, and a couple of locals. They all come with a one year warranty and seem to last about 13-14 months. I was wondering if cold weaqther affected their longevity.

Oh also one pump was a dealer pump when the IP was changed under warranty
 
A member here keyed me into a nice ebay site that deals in refurbished Racor's, great deals, under fitty for 490r30 or others similar. OF course depends on who else is bidding. I got my 445r30 w/extra 30 micron filter for 60beans after 18doller shipping. Flows 45GPH capacity.. same as Walbro. Not that I'd ever use 45gallons in one hour. Thats dirt cheap for a racor unit IMO. PM me for details.

Working with Leroy now about the walbro and his fittings.. wont be long. THen the fuel pressure gauge and never a 2nd question in my mind weather or not I have fuel pressure. not to mention a clear bowl under there to see visual of fuel, and the primary water separator/filter... Its just a win/win.
 
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