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Some will be sad..... Others not so much.

4l80e is a better tranny stock but you can do full billet suncoast 47re and it will hold up just fine. You put a worked Cummins behind anything stock and it will blow apart.
 
hey I called first dibs and I want everything, turbo, WMI, ALL OF IT !!!
so let me look up how far he is away and what he wants for it first gad darn it :)
 
I am going to keep the electronics on the 24 valve because I like the fact that with the press of a button I can go from a "tire shredder" to a "mileage mode" with the programmers that they make for it. I have to agree with Ace for as far as longevity and ease to work on a cummins, I think it is going to be a great project! I am sending PM's out to everyone who wanted one...:)
 
JKAUTO has a CUMMINS BURB. The 4L80E stock can't come close to holding what a 47RE can stock, just facts. The 47RE can and has been built to hold 1000HP+, the 4L80E will self destruct even fully built after about 400HP behind a diesel in OD. They are pretty tough in 1-3, but 4th they are weak. Transfer case isn't an issue either if you have a DODGE and GM in front of you to make one out of. You take a DODGE transfer case and swap it out with the GM output shaft with tone wheel and use the GM rear bearing holder as that will let you thread in the OSS to make your stock speedo work. You can use the bread truck adapter, but that will rotate the tranny 7 degrees so you have to put the engine in on an angle. The DESTROKED adapter will put it in straight, but will cost you over $1K for the adapter plate and such to hook it up plus a FORD 6L starter. Then throw in the cost of a fully built 4L80E with a billet converter and your trans controller and you could have bought a 47RE and had it built up.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
JKAUTO has a CUMMINS BURB. The 4L80E stock can't come close to holding what a 47RE can stock, just facts. The 47RE can and has been built to hold 1000HP+, the 4L80E will self destruct even fully built after about 400HP behind a diesel in OD. They are pretty tough in 1-3, but 4th they are weak. Transfer case isn't an issue either if you have a DODGE and GM in front of you to make one out of. You take a DODGE transfer case and swap it out with the GM output shaft with tone wheel and use the GM rear bearing holder as that will let you thread in the OSS to make your stock speedo work. You can use the bread truck adapter, but that will rotate the tranny 7 degrees so you have to put the engine in on an angle. The DESTROKED adapter will put it in straight, but will cost you over $1K for the adapter plate and such to hook it up plus a FORD 6L starter. Then throw in the cost of a fully built 4L80E with a billet converter and your trans controller and you could have bought a 47RE and had it built up.
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Ya I wish those destroked adapters weren't so much but is seems like that will be the right way to do it, I will look more into the GM vs Dodge tranny thing some more, I am just starting to get the parts I need collected for the swap. You don't know what the going rate is on a 47re do ya, and what are the odds I can get one already built? Would hooking up the shift linkage to the tranny be an issue, what about mounting to the crossmember?
 
The RE is electronic, but is about 3" shorter which helps out in a 4X4 swap as the torsion bar crossmember clearance is TIGHT to say the least in this swap from what I read. Most say they have to move it back a good inch to try and get the assembly in there and still get the engine to clear the radiator. I almost did a 12 valve swap in my BURB, but I heard one in town one day and remembered how loud they were and decided I didn't want to listen to that in my BURB and went with the DMAX/ALLISON swap instead. The linkage is doable if you go with a cable. Gear indicator is a problem area, but a switch from a 2000 DAKOTA I believe could be made to trigger the gear display. The 47RH will still need a few electrical inputs for lock-up and OD, but there are some hydraulic switches that you can buy and wire in some relays to do an OK job of controlling it. As for the transfer case, the DODGE tranny will most likely be a 23 spline but could be a 29 spline(the same as the ALLISON) and the 4L80E will be a 32 spline. The main difference between the DODGE and GM cases are they are clocked 90 degrees different of each other, hence why you need to use a DODGE front half or a clocking ring from ADVANCED ADAPTERS.
 
Extremesounds13 said:
Also THEFERMANATOR wouldn't I need to use a 47rh cause the re is electronically controlled? I PM'd those who wanted one.
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If you'd like, I can give you a phone number of a friend of mine who lives/works in American Falls and has a Suburban with a Cummins in it, modded like wildfire. He did the conversion himself, and would be a wonderful resource for you.
 
Ferm, I'm pretty sure I've read that a properly built a 4L80E is good for 700Hp, I beefed mine up for 18K loads, but I"m guessing only 275-ish Hp to the flywheel in mine.

Last time I talked to Ron @ Suncoast they were close to having a really beefey 4L80E, GMCTD running a Cummins truck now had some issues he didn't like with Dodge trans, I'll try to hook up with him to see if he can post what it was there.
 
Veg_Out said:
If you'd like, I can give you a phone number of a friend of mine who lives/works in American Falls and has a Suburban with a Cummins in it, modded like wildfire. He did the conversion himself, and would be a wonderful resource for you.
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That would be great!!


As far as the tranny goes I am still on the fence, I keep thinking I should just use the 4L80E, but I just need some good input on some people using them behind the cummins. Also could I just use my torque converter or would I have to get a better one?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Ferm, I'm pretty sure I've read that a properly built a 4L80E is good for 700Hp, I beefed mine up for 18K loads, but I"m guessing only 275-ish Hp to the flywheel in mine.

Last time I talked to Ron @ Suncoast they were close to having a really beefey 4L80E, GMCTD running a Cummins truck now had some issues he didn't like with Dodge trans, I'll try to hook up with him to see if he can post what it was there.
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They can take some pretty big HP and torque numbers in 1-3, but OD is there downfall. Mike L. was talking about them over on McRat's forum and was saying this. I know the DURAMAX GRAND NATIONAL is using one as well as the DURAMAX MUSTANG, but neither one of them will use OD for anything other than cruising. The TURBO 400 portion of it is tough, but the added on OD unit is it's downfall from what the experts say. The DURAFLITE has proven itself behind some 1000HP+ DURAMAX's with good reliability, and that one is a modded 47RE. You don't hear about the 4L80E behind HP and torque numbers like that. It's a good trans, but has some limitations to it. And in a CUMMINS swap the adapter plate will just about break you if you want it to set in there straight.

ADAPTER PLATE=$795
FLEXPLATE=$625
STARTER=$129
$1549 just to get it bolted up to the CUMMINS, not to mention the $1K for a billet converter, and whatever a GOOD solid build will cost you on one with billet shafts, heavy duty planetarys, 4L85E upgrades, and along with the 99+ improvements inside of your 4L80E to get it to hold up. It makes that DODGE tranny with a build look better and better.
 
unless you do a standalone controller or manual VB I think wiring could get ugly no matter what. I was thinking about a 4l8oe for my CUCV but I would do a reverse Manual VB.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
ADAPTER PLATE=$795
FLEXPLATE=$625
STARTER=$129
$1549 just to get it bolted up to the CUMMINS, not to mention the $1K for a billet converter, and whatever a GOOD solid build will cost you on one with billet shafts, heavy duty planetarys, 4L85E upgrades, and along with the 99+ improvements inside of your 4L80E to get it to hold up. It makes that DODGE tranny with a build look better and better.
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So you are correct on the costs and I would also have to buy a stand alone controller at $550.00 So I am looking a 2100 dollars to keep the stock tranny! So you may be right cause I am guessing I could get a pretty decent tranny for that kind of coin that would bolt right to the cummins and be built a little. But would I want the 47re cause wouldn't I still need the stand alone controller to control it since it is electronic and I don't have the dodge electronics, or will the cummins engine control it? If not wouldn't I be better off using the 47rh cause it is not electrical so I don't have to buy a stand alone controller? Also if I just used the dodge transfer case couldn't I just change my front drive line so it fit the dodge transfer case instead of matting the chevy and dodge transfer cases together?
 
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