SOME HELP ON THE BOOST FOOLER PLEASE

[MrMarty51]

In the diagram for installing a potentiometer, it appears that the wires are cut that goes to terminals A and terminal B.
Would that be the case, or are the wires left intact and the potentiometer just hooks to them ?
Thinking I can get a little better power and less black smoke on the hard pulls.
I want to extend the harness for the pot, into the cab so it can be adjusted on the fly, as needed. If it wont blow the computer by doing so.

 

[MrMarty51]

Okay, I found another set of instructions for the booster fooler.
@BoostN If it is not okay to post another site in here then please go ahead and delete this posting.
Just thought this article was a bit more to detail, and what to expect from the booster fooler.
http://www.flashoffroad.com/Diesel/boost_fooler/boost_fooler.html

 

[MrMarty51]

I made up the boost fooler and put the adjustable resistor in the cab.
While going up the steepish yellowstone hill, I started turning the knob. I was impressed with the way the truck responded.
Going over the top of the hill and down the back side, still a steep climb coming back up. I gained speed before starting up the hill, when pulling hard, the smoke was about half of what it was previous.
Now, I`m going to order in a 5,000 ohm and a 10,000 ohm in line resistor and add in the 5,000. With that I should be able to obtain 10 pounds of boost, probably cut the smoke in half again.
Nice thing about this is, when just cruising, I can cut the boost back and help with the fuel mileage some.

 

[Sand]

Im fooling with boost right now by completely shutting down my turbo and logging some data. I like what you're up to. Id almost utilize it in reverse to shut the turbo down on the hills (your way is better to detune it) as thats what causes my really hot intake temps (170 deg) and EGT (1300 -1400) to send my coolant temp climbing without çeiling if I let it. Which I dont. But backing off on boost brings all those temps back into the happy range. Keep us posted on which trimpot works out best.

 

[MrMarty51]

Im fooling with boost right now by completely shutting down my turbo and logging some data. I like what you're up to. Id almost utilize it in reverse to shut the turbo down on the hills (your way is better to detune it) as thats what causes my really hot intake temps (170 deg) and EGT (1300 -1400) to send my coolant temp climbing without çeiling if I let it. Which I dont. But backing off on boost brings all those temps back into the happy range. Keep us posted on which trimpot works out best.

I have a trim pot installed. It is the inline resistor that will be next.
Have You tried cleaning Your radiator{s} ? the S is to include the oil cooler and the AC condensor.
The engine temp on my truck used to climb to what I thought was dangerously high, I cleaned the stack, removed the upper shroud half and hit the radiator from both sides. It now will reach 225 if it is real hot out, on a long hard pull.

 

[MrMarty51]

Here is a pic. of a trim pot.
The ground goes to the terminal to the left, position 1, when the pot is standing with the knob to the top and the terminals are looking at You.
The signal input goes to the center terminal, No. 2, that would be the wire coming in from the boost sensor.
The wire going out to the ECM will go onto position 3, to the far right.
I could not get a 5,000 ohm resistor, closest was a 3.65 or some such. I soldered one of those into the no. 2 line and will make another run to see how high the boost will go, empty and on the steep hill again. If need be, I`ll solder on another one of those 3,000 ohm resistors in series with the one already there.
My target is to get it to 9 pounds of boost on the hill empty.
I do not want to get over ten pounds, even under a heavy pull. I do not want to have to wind up replacing head gaskets and having the check engine light coming on. LOL

 

[MrMarty51]

I installed another 10,000 ohm adjustable pot into the mix. run the input wire to the no. 2 terminal, from the no. 3 terminal of the first pot, hooked the ground to the no. 1 terminal and the signal out to the ECM to the no. 3 terminal.
Took it for a drive, with both pots to max resistance, I`m now getting to eight pounds of boost, pulling the same hill at 75 mph.
I`m next going to remove the jumper wire from the no. 3 terminal of the original pot that goes to the no. 2 position of the new pot and I`ll install a 10,000 ohm resistor in that position, it`ll then be drive time again. LOL

 

[MrMarty51]

It seems the truck did not like that 30,000 ohms of resistance. It tripped the SES lamp.
I removed the inline 10,000 resistor and filled in with wire. I`ll wait until the lamp code clears then make another run.
I`m guessing I`ll just be happy with the 8 pounds of boost that I got before the lamp tripped.
A new turbo will be in order soon as I get the funds available. I like to improve on every piece of muscheeenery I get, buy a component then make it do its job to the fullest. LOL
I do know that the turbo is not weak, I can make over 15 pounds of boost with the manual waste gate actuator attached.

 

[JMJNet]

Question is the engine going to hold up with higher turbo pressure?

 

[MrMarty51]

Question is the engine going to hold up with higher turbo pressure?

It should be fine. I will not be running over 8 PSI.
Before the fooler gizmo, I could get it up to 6PSI.
For some reason I can not get it to go to ten.
After reading back through the article, I see where the civilian equipped vehicles doesn`t respond as well as the Hummers with the government set up.
If I am only gainiing 2 PSI I might remove the unit, send it to someone with a military Hummer that they can try it out on.