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So I got a CUCV

Yeah I gotta run around the truck with a volt meter. I have no idea how this thing is wired. I have never owned one. I have conflicting reports of whether the whole truck is 24v or just the starting system.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Yeah I gotta run around the truck with a volt meter. I have no idea how this thing is wired. I have never owned one. I have conflicting reports of whether the whole truck is 24v or just the starting system.
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I think its just the starting and charging that's 24 volts. That way they can jump anything with anything and don't have to hunt for a "like" voltage vehicle. IIRC there's a resistor somewhere on the firewall that drops the voltage to 12 volts for the rest of the system. Also i believe the IP shutoff solenoid is 24 volts. you'd have to switch the cap. if you need an IP cap i've got one you can have off an old IP here that's in working order.

However this is just what i've read. i have a buddy with a ex-military 6.2 blazer. i'll have to take a look at his setup.
 
Yeah I was going to dmv tommorow to register it. Then I have to stop and look at a lift and tires for it. Then I'll play around with the volt meter. I gotta get something going. We have one last camping trip Oct 23 in Salem and I don't trust the Lemon to tow the camper.
 
iamdave0887 said:
Where did you find yours? How do they mount? i'm guessing they bolt to the frame or the bumper supports? I can't tell by Kenny's photos.
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They mount just like factory except for where the frame connector is. The side supports look the same. At the frame, they just use longer grade 8 bolts to go through the shackle inserts to the frame.

Theres a local guy that parts out cucv's whenever he can get them. Usually makes his money back and then some selling the d60 out of the front to 4wd guys so he lets the rest of the stuff go for pretty cheap.
 
Can you get me a contact with him ? I'd really like to make those black out lights work again...Never know when you might want to hunt in laws with night vision....:devil:
 
Truck is on the road......Hurray. Le me tell you guys...what a sweet truck. I went to make a turn and the rear made a clunking sound and I'm like O Sh.. the rear is bad then I remembered... MIl Spec...Detriot Locker..Niiicceeeee. It runs and drives like a brand new truck. Tranny almost chips the tires it's so tight. Of course max comfortable speed of 45 aint gonna do it plus it felt weird letting of the fuel and engine not idling. I been drivin Lock up TCCs so long I forgot what A GOOD OLE th400 feels like. I'd like the truck to do 65-70 comfortably. 33's probably wont get me there. I think I was comfortable at 65-70 with my old brown truck(see albim) with 4.10s so I'm thinking those 37inch mil spec hummer tires should offset the gears. Just picked up a set of HD 4 inch front springs for 150$ for the pair and a set of blocks for the rear with the one u bolt I need for the pumpkin. Gonna order the body lift next week. I wish I could find someone in Texas to look at the tires before I buy them. Little nervous buying used tires unseen.
 
Are your front springs the same length as the front springs in my blazer? mine are bending the wrong way somethign terrible. I need to replace them, but don't have the money for new ones.

I"m guessing with Mil spec they are different. :mad2:
 
iamdave0887 said:
Are your front springs the same length as the front springs in my blazer? mine are bending the wrong way somethign terrible. I need to replace them, but don't have the money for new ones.

I"m guessing with Mil spec they are different. :mad2:
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I'm not sure what is up. The springs I bought fromthe guy are 1/2 inch narrower than the springs in the truick right now. I can't remember from way back if that is normal or the guy sold me the wrong springs. anybody here have 4 inch springs and could you measure your width ? My stock ones are 3 inches wide. The lift ones are 2.5. Dave if they are the right springs for my CUCV and my stock ones fit you can have them. remember though factory springs are NEGATIVE arc. Your's may be fine.
 
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