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Slop in Steering Column Joint

Big T

Big T

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So, just installed the next Redhead Steering box in my son's '94 Suburban after the last one leaked. The alignment shop also said there was too much play in the steering. Redhead had me do an isolation test, but that was inconclusive. Still, the leak forced the return. As I slid the steering column onto the new box, I had my wife moving the column back and forth. Once I got it on and the joint torqued down, I had here turn the wheel back and forth again. Then I saw where the steering play is coming from. It's in the rubber cushioned joint just above the clamp that goes onto the input shaft of the box. I can see the back and forth play. I guess this is called the rag joint?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4715259&cc=1302365&jsn=448

How hard is it to replace these?
 
They're not too bad to do. Go down to your local parts store and they sell them in the help section. The one you linked is the right rag joint, but that's about it. I should have done a right up on the one I did last year for my uncle. I will say that most of the hardware that comes with them will not be used, and I had to get 2 3/8" shouldered bolts with nylon lock nuts to install it.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
They're not too bad to do. Go down to your local parts store and they sell them in the help section. The one you linked is the right rag joint, but that's about it. I should have done a right up on the one I did last year for my uncle. I will say that most of the hardware that comes with them will not be used, and I had to get 2 3/8" shouldered bolts with nylon lock nuts to install it.
Click to expand...

Does my '99 have this same rag joint, or is it different. I can't find one on Rockauto for the '99.
 
That RA part looks like a cost effective part for repair. Absolutely causes a lot of slop in the steering and the last thing I changed.

For some reason the air bag rigs are a bit different as far as parts availability goes. Except the extreme GM FUBAR of the 99-2008 upper intermediate steering shaft made a new aftermarket design profitable... http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=34

1994 can use this. http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1450&cat=34&page=1 Be careful to get the shaft on as far as you can on the lower column and check the set screws (2) often. It's the weak area in the Borgeson design that can fall off. (Several have.) A pop in the steering means it's loose, but, binds on either side making finding the looseness hard to spot. (Patch went through this pop problem.) Set screws on the soft steering shaft can bend the steel under them. The shaft then works its way off bending the steel all the way down. No the set screws never loosen. GM design has a bolt going all the way through.
 
WarWagon said:
That RA part looks like a cost effective part for repair. Absolutely causes a lot of slop in the steering and the last thing I changed.

For some reason the air bag rigs are a bit different as far as parts availability goes. Except the extreme GM FUBAR of the 99-2008 upper intermediate steering shaft made a new aftermarket design profitable... http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=34

1994 can use this. http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1450&cat=34&page=1 Be careful to get the shaft on as far as you can on the lower column and check the set screws (2) often. It's the weak area in the Borgeson design that can fall off. (Several have.) A pop in the steering means it's loose, but, binds on either side making finding the looseness hard to spot. (Patch went through this pop problem.) Set screws on the soft steering shaft can bend the steel under them. The shaft then works its way off bending the steel all the way down. No the set screws never loosen. GM design has a bolt going all the way through.
Click to expand...

So, do I have to pull out that steering shaft to replace the rag joint? How difficult is this?
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
They're not too bad to do. Go down to your local parts store and they sell them in the help section. The one you linked is the right rag joint, but that's about it. I should have done a right up on the one I did last year for my uncle. I will say that most of the hardware that comes with them will not be used, and I had to get 2 3/8" shouldered bolts with nylon lock nuts to install it.
Click to expand...

I heard you have to grind off the rivets. Then is that where you put in the shoulder bolts? How long?
 
Pretty sure both your 99 and 94 use the same rag joint. The rock auto piece costs a good bit more than I believe I paid for the rag joint I got at oreillys in there help section. Yes, you grind the rivets off, then put in the shouldered bolts. The rag joint I got only came with 2 bolts. 1 goes in normally, the other one I had to cut half the stickout off of, then I used to 3/8" course bolts, I believe 1 1/4" long ones, they have about a 3/8 shoulder to them between the threads and the hex head. The shouldered portion is important to take up the slack in the bolt holes, and so you can tighten the bolts down tight, but not crush the rubber rag joint too much. I wish now I would have done a write up showing the rag joint as well as the JEEP shaft.

Theres also the JEEP shaft option, but I don't reccomend buying one out of a junkyard for the 94 as the rubber joint in it will be ready to fail at any time, and leave your steering sloppy again.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/88-98-00-2500-3500s-xj-steering-shaft-upgrade.44953/
 
Big T said:
So, do I have to pull out that steering shaft to replace the rag joint? How difficult is this?
Click to expand...

You already have the bolt at the steering box down. The lower column is 1 bolt and should slide off without too much drama. (Red 5# hammer is not drama in my book.) The shaft you are working on will collapse to come off just like it does for box replacement. Note on the air bag models to lock the steering wheel in place so you don't ruin the air bag clock spring.

On the stubborn ones I leave the box attached and rock the steering wheel while a friend taps it off. (With a bungee cord to the brake pedal from the steering wheel on air bag years.) The rocking helps the shaft slide off. Alternatively removing it from the steering box doesn't force it to collapse. Penetrating oil helps as well both at the lower column and the slip joint. Relube the shaft slip joint depending on how old the grease is.
 
You know, I read all the other posts here about steering columns shafts and what not, but it never really sinks in until you're staring at it.
 
So I got the rag joint from Rockauto. Unlike the repair kits posted in this thread, this is a complete new rag joint. No grinding off rivets and finding replacement bolts. This simply taps onto the shaft and a tab lock it in place. Should be a fairly quick fix.
 
For 95+ I like the cherokee lower shaft used to replace the rag joint. Does away with all the slop, connects like factory, is keyed to keep everything straight, and isn't held on with set screws that can loosen or work loose.
 
Well I did the cheapo rag joint replacement and that took out the remaining slop in the steering. Need to do this on the '99, but Rockauto does not show a rag joint for the '99.
 
The 84-94 Cherokee lower shaft will work. Nobody lists any replacement parts for 95+ because of the liability dealing with the airbag at the end of it. You can put a replacement rag joint in it, but the shaft is quite a bit different than the 94 and older shaft, so I don't know if the one you put in the 94 will work or not.
 
Rockauto shows an entire lower shaft unit by Dorman for like $150. The joint is different. If there's rubber in there, I can't see it.
 
This is what they show. Looks different than what I just replaced.
 

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