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Slide-in Camper vs Fifth Wheel

revyd

revyd

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Quick question.

I know a lot of guys tow with their 6.5s and I'm sure quite a few use a slide in truck camper. What I'm wondering is how does the performance change when moving from a 3000 pound slide in to a 10k fifth wheel.

My guess is it may be comparable but I don't have any real world experience. The weight on the truck will go down but of course the rolling weight increases. Air resistance should be similar. I'm looking at moving from the camper to a fifth wheel and I'm trying to figure out what to expect.
 
ak diesel driver said:
You have a db2 if I read your signature right. Is it stock with stock turbo? If so you'll notice a big difference. Plus you'll need to make sure you're cooling system is top notch.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. The IP is a db4. I put in a lift pump that was for a 93. Thus the db2 reference but I’ll change the sig since it’s misleading.

I still have the stock gm4 turbo but the cooling has been upgraded.
 
First and foremost important item, get an electronical fuel pressure gauge between the FFM and the IP.
I read a lot and take to heart what is taught in this TTS classroom.
I am told that the DB4 really likes between 8, IIRC, and 14 PSI of fuel pressure. Anything below 8 and it causes excessive wear on the IP components.
Thats why I went with the AirDog LP system.
@ak diesel driver went with a different LP system and I think what He did might be just as good as the AD system but maybe not so many filters to have to contend with.
IIRC his may be the FASS pump with a remote located fuel filter.
We’ll let Him tell of His system.
 
If only driving on flatland's, pick your poison. 5-er is certainly workable, but you will need to know how to keep things under control.

If looking to manage any grades, keeping the camper is arguably the better option. While I did not pull a 5-er or slide-in, I did pull a 30' 8K# TT with the Burb. OE shift tables for the slushbox are a hot mess for keeping things cool. While climbing 6% +/- grades, you will need to manage the throttle by watching EGT (and knowing the limit of when temperatures will runaway at a given throttle setting) which means to expect ~50 kmh (maybe), with the engine screaming, and manually downshifting to keep RPMs from dropping below 2K (reminder, the OE shift tables are a hot mess). Cooling stack in perfect condition is a must. Air box that actually pulls cold air (not from the engine bay) is another must. And, get a tune which does a better job at locking the TCC as the OE tune is also horrible for decel and holding back a load.
 
I've had both and from what I can tell, so far, there isn't a whole lot of difference from one to the other in terms of how the truck acts. The points you already made seem about right. Cooling system up to par is a must have, though. I'm starting to think a radiator is a maintenance item to be replaced every so many years or miles - maybe 15-20 years depending on how much it sits around.
 
SnowDrift said:
I've had both and from what I can tell, so far, there isn't a whole lot of difference from one to the other in terms of how the truck acts. The points you already made seem about right. Cooling system up to par is a must have, though. I'm starting to think a radiator is a maintenance item to be replaced every so many years or miles - maybe 15-20 years depending on how much it sits around.
Click to expand...
Yes, on cooling.
The Champion aluminum radiator is a mighty good choice.
Taking no chances I had my new radiator shipped to Chris @Twisted Steel Performance and had Him do the thermal coat system, then, He shipped the radiator over to Me.
Also the fan clutch.
@Big T has a fan clutch on His coolant pump that functions mighty fine.
Maybe He will come in and post up the brand and part nummer.
If You want to go a bit farther, @ak diesel driver did a lit of research and came up with a programmable electro/viscous fan system that utilizes a plastic Duramax fan and a Hayden electronical control that has a pot that can be adjusted, using a small screwing driver, and turning the pot control so that the fan comes on at whatever temp You desire for the fan to come on at.
Watching the scanner program app on My phone I can read what the ECM is seeing for the engine temperature and have the pot on My controller set to come on at 198*F.
With a temperature gauge sending unit installed in the rear of the RH cylinder head, the hit spot of these engines, I have not seen temps go over the 200*F mark on that gauge. I am mighty happy with this electro/viscous system as is Big T with the fan clutch He has on His Suburban.
Choose wisely, the life of Your engine might depend on it.
 
With my 1993 Chevrolet C3500 I had a bumper pull, 2 5th wheels, and an older large slide in camper.
Living in central Texas with small grade hills the slide in camper did the best with my truck.
My biggest issue was the small hills that we do have.
 
Nice with a pull behind, once camp is set up, the truck is used for transportation.
With an overhead, when camp is set, if You want to go exploring then the camper has to go along, unless a trailer is being tagged along and another form of transport is incorporated.
The newer campers has some sort of a vinyl roofing, thats another form of contention with people buying a pull behind and thinking this will be for the long term.
Buy and older camper then rebuild it with new aluminum roof and siding.
 
revyd said:
My guess is it may be comparable but I don't have any real world experience. The weight on the truck will go down but of course the rolling weight increases. Air resistance should be similar. I'm looking at moving from the camper to a fifth wheel and I'm trying to figure out what to expect.
Click to expand...

Most try a few things to tow a monster 5th wheel (cargo trailer, etc.) below the speed limit foot to the floor and watch a MODERN gasoline engine getting the SAME OR BETTER MPG while pulling grades at or above the speed limit and get something different for a Tow Vehicle. A 6.7 Cummins diesel will get 15 MPG towing where these get (in my attempts at least) ~7 MPG and modified with a BFT* get 10.4 MPG towing the serious grades around here. A few in the big padded room of the nuthouse like me attempt(ed) to make these engines do the job.

*Big turbo that won't spool before 2000 RPM and a Yank Stall converter to get the damn thing revved up and out of the hole at a light. The stock weak TC clutch slipping to burn out is the next weak link in towing for the 4L80E. You haven't lived until you you have done a brakestand burnout and get leaned back into the seat all the way to redline from a 6.2/6.5 IDI turbo diesel. Oddly improving MPG with more power... More turbo solutions around now than I had available a decade ago.

I like the 5th wheel Vs. a tag trailer as the trailer doesn't lever the truck to bounce and wag you so bad from bumps. It's also 8' shorter rig length as the 5er is over some of the bed. The taller 5er is harder on fuel for sure.

The 5er weighs more and any anthill you try and climb will remind you of this and the limitations of a 1995 Disposable Diesel.

I believe 10K lbs towing is the limit with a 7.4L (gas 454). I wasn't able to find the DRW 6.5TD towing limits online, it may be lower than 10K lbs

That said an RV is a complete picture: Tow Vehicle and RV itself. One has to match the other. If you are committed to this 1995 pickup than the RV needs to match the TV's lack of abilities. Otherwise motor homes, different tow vehicle to better match a 10K lbs 5th wheel, or keep what you got are your options best known to you and your wants in an RV.
 
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