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Selling if I cannot find out whats wrong

You should go for a ride in one of my 6.5's although they are 6.2 hybrids now. :burnout: I run the ragged edge and have gone over it a couple times. There is a lot of room for reasonable power and economy with a 6.5. My MPG towing is on par with a modern Duramax after installing the A Team Turbo. The BD valve gives me the low end too. Sure there are better diesels out there, but, parts and purchase price are much lower for the 6.5. I can get a complete 6.2 to my door for $1200 when I go over the edge... $2K with injectors, ARP heads studs, gaskets, oil cooler, and a starter and I am running again.

Get a stopwatch and see what the 6.5 can do for a couple grand in performance parts: (Keep in mind my videos are 110+ degrees out with AC on and the cooling fan running...)
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?39789-ATT-videos

My trucks get around 13 MPG. Best with a stock 1993 6.5 was 14 MPG freeway.

Towing I get as low as 7 MPG stock. I can't explain any better how GM really screwed the pooch with the factory turbo setup. It shows in the low, low resale value of 6.5's.

You are messing with the garbage factory turbo by turning up the boost without the tune to use it. It is like leaving the supercharger running off the belt at idle. You don't need it and can't use it, but, it is still costing you fuel.

I suggest a few things.

You need to make sure you have fuel pressure at max RPM. Put a gauge on the water drain and place it on the windshield where you can see it. In neutral or park floor the throttle until the engine reaches max RPM. It is governed so no need to worry. You should have some PSI at max RPM. If you do the fuel system is fine. When was the last filter change as this test doesn't test it. "0" could be a vacuum and means you need a lift pump, OPS, or tank sock removal, etc.

Your Turbomaster and lack of a tune is what is costing you MPG's. A 1/4 turn on the fuel screw (Your truck needs a tune to do the fuel screw) really wakes up a truck in the low RPM range with a turbo master. MPG still sucks.

For max MPG get rid of the factory turbo and go NA with a NA tune.

For power and MPG especially towing get a A Team Turbo, a 4" exhaust, and a tune. This gives you MPG towing and Power in the top end.

You can try the ATT and either sell it on here or return it if it doesn't do what you want. If all else fails post the truck for sale on here.
 
foxdenfarms said:
Well the thing is with the 5k pot turned at anything less than all the way it defuels and limps out. The boost will peak at 13 as if shifts, stays around 8-10 at 3800. My lift pump is on a switch so I know it is on and working. I did the fuel pressure check at idle and it is good. How fo I know if the filter needs to be replaced? And whats the best way to get the fuel pump out to check it and the sock?
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How long has it been since you changed the fuel filter? There is a screen in a fitting on the fuel filter manger/housing that can get gummed up.

Checking the ip inlet will require taking the lower intake off and dismantling the pump inlet on a clean work bench, this is not a very likely problem.

You check the fuel tank pick up sock by blowing compressed shop air toward the tank from the tank side lp connection.

Other than fuel or ground issue the only other issue I can for see is boost/boost fooler issue. High intake air temps or a bad intake air temp sensor can cause defuel.

Do you have a way to check for codes? Just because there isn't a ses/cel light doesnt mean there aren't codes.

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
Sounds to me like your boost fooler is out of range. Surprised you don't have a code or 2 to report. Remove the boost fooler setup back to stock and start from there.
 
Btw fuel pump making noise does not mean it is working. Flow on fail pumps frequently drop volume or pressure and still Rattle away like normal. If you hook up your pressure gauge in the line going to the injector pump that is how you know you have proper pressure and not a plugged filter or screen.

Jam not sure if the bleedscrew on top of the ffm is pre or post filter.
 
If all else fails, I am in Spartanburg a little south from you, maybe bring it here and we both might could figure it out...

I tow grossing 20,000lbs with mine, a 6K tractor behind me and I don't even know it's there.. but mine is a little bit different than a stock motor...

Like said before, you are over boosting a stock GM turbo me thinks....
 
I haven't seen anyone say anything about the timing, there are many things that could be adding up here, going at it in many different directions at the same time makes it really hard to tell if any one thing helps or hurts ....

A good starting place is the fuel system, anything that isn't right can slow or stop the fuel getting to the chambers as needed, LP, filter, tank sock, tank cap, etc.... unless you are SURE the fuel system is what it should be it isn't going to matter, you need to start and finish one thing at a time to rule out things as you proceed to the next step...
 
sctrailrider said:
I haven't seen anyone say anything about the timing, there are many things that could be adding up here, going at it in many different directions at the same time makes it really hard to tell if any one thing helps or hurts ....

A good starting place is the fuel system, anything that isn't right can slow or stop the fuel getting to the chambers as needed, LP, filter, tank sock, tank cap, etc.... unless you are SURE the fuel system is what it should be it isn't going to matter, you need to start and finish one thing at a time to rule out things as you proceed to the next step...
Click to expand...

I was trying to start with least invasive and since he just got the truck and hasnt reported any code I was figuring he might not have the tools/scanner to retime. Timing could be another issue too though.

IMO confirming fuel supply should be first when a low power situation occurs. Then check air supply. After that you pretty much into electrical/timing/sensors
 
I hate to say this, but...

Can you please copy the Diagnostic Checklist (found in my signature) - fill it out - and then paste it back into a post here?

Doing so will accomplish a number of things:

- it will get you to do some pretty basic and yet necessary maintenance, or confirm that you have already done so
- it will give the guys here some good information on how your truck is acting
- it will give the guys the opportunity to walk you through anything you aren't sure how to do
- it will put all that information in one place, rather than spread out all over the place.

6.5 Diesel Engines are deceptively simple in concept, and deceptively complex in their specific details. To make things go, you need air in, fuel in, and exhaust out. How you accomplish those is another story.

For instance:

- you say you have a cone air filter. Is it open and under the hood, drawing in hot air? Is it clean? Either of those will cost you power. (air in)
- you indicate you have 'straight pipes'. You also have a 1994. Have you changed out the crushed downpipe? That will cost you power. (exhaust out)
- More boost (via your home-made turbo master) is just air. Air does not equal power. You also need more fuel, and accurate timing.

The guys are very correct to ask about your fuel pressure. (fuel in)
- Fuel comes from your tank THROUGH the 'sock' TO your lift pump TO your fuel filter manager TO your injection pump. A problem anywhere in that line will cost you power. Hearing the lift pump is not good enough. You need a gauge and about 6' of hose, so you can run it out of the hood and watch it while driving.

You should be able to get adequate power to pull your trailer and horse without a chip or without changing the turbo, but you won't get great power without doing those things.
 
My truck is sometimes hard starting when cold, will start then stall once maybe 3 or 4 times, then puff white smoke and the ses light will stay on until the truck idles up the drop to idle and the light goes off.
 
Well, doesn't show much really..

I think with nothing being known about the truck and you not knowing what or where to start looking and checking, it is going to be really hard to diagnose. we could have you check different things as said in the past here..

Look in the FAQ section, there is a check list you should copy & paste after you go through the list start a new thread and post that check list up with your findings, then we can see more and steer you towards something, as of now, we are just guessing about the things that it could be and not what it is..
 
I mean I just posted that to show cold starting and stalling. I dont know what else I can record to help you guys. I dont have a computer so copying and pasting and doing a checklist is hard for me.
 
Ok, I see.... I still think there is more than any one thing that is multiplying into a motor that doesn't like doing it's job.... this is going to be frustrating for you & us to work through....:grin:
 
You're telling me.....im frusturated because I have a truck that doesn't work as it should and I am not used to not knowing how to work on it
 
Start with simple stuff that doesn't cost you anything.

1] When the truck is not running, open the water drain valve from your fuel manager (brass T-Handle) and see if it pees diesel out the drain line (also attached to that T-handle) when the key is turned to run.

... if it doesn't, then your LP is dead and needs to be replaced.

... if it does, then

2] When the truck is idling, open the water drain valve. If your Lift Pump is working properly, you should have fuel pee out of the drain line, and your truck should keep running. If the truck stalls, your LP is dying and needs to be replaced

The LP and its cousin, the OPS will both cause this problem (lack of power, hard starting, etc)
 
I NEVER start with that test. If it dies, it can be hard restarting after you loose the prime. I start by hot wiring the lift pump - on a 94 the lift pump fuse is on the passenger side under the cover on the firewall - then running about 3/4 gallon fuel out the T drain while noting the flow. If the flow is weak, I disconnect the exit line from the pump and run a hose to a container. If I take the pump off, I run from container to container. If you have good flow running between to containers, then odds are you have a plugged sock or you are sucking air,.

JiFaire said:
Start with simple stuff that doesn't cost you anything.

1] When the truck is not running, open the water drain valve from your fuel manager (brass T-Handle) and see if it pees diesel out the drain line (also attached to that T-handle) when the key is turned to run.

... if it doesn't, then your LP is dead and needs to be replaced.

... if it does, then

2] When the truck is idling, open the water drain valve. If your Lift Pump is working properly, you should have fuel pee out of the drain line, and your truck should keep running. If the truck stalls, your LP is dying and needs to be replaced

The LP and its cousin, the OPS will both cause this problem (lack of power, hard starting, etc)
Click to expand...
 
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