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Seems like no power with the trailer.

Diesel Nut

Member
Messages
240
Reaction score
9
Location
Fond Du Lac, WI
Picked up my new 24' all aluminum trailer today, pulled it empty. In my 1993 Chevy crew cab dually with a 6.5 mechanical injection, and stock turbo with mechanical waste gate. I was boosting 9psi and the db2 4911 is stock. I was pulling small hills with the truck and had a hard time keeping 60mph. So I got out the trust 15mm wrench and adjusted the injection pump, I just timed the engine with a snap on pulse adapter and timing light but after pulling the trailer i figure the timing plate must be off. So I adjusted by my ear. Truck ran better but still not the power my 94 has.
I would like more power for on my way home next week.


IMG_0348[1].jpgAny suggestions.
 
I am in the same club, little hills kill me. I have yet to turn my pump up. Try that! :thumbsup:

I have upgraded the turbo to a GM8 and it helped. But it is still gutless on hills with a trailer in tow.
 
If you were bucking any wind, it's as bad as being fully loaded with no wind.
 
Any brake controller hooked up? Maybe it's bringing in the trl brakes a little.. Try resetting it? Wrong wiring or an issue with the trl brakes themselves?

Good looking rig.
 
Stock lift pump? Any idea what you have for fuel pressure when you step on it?
 
How much of your $ do we get to spend? Seriously though fill out the signature area with details on the truck so we know what you have done so far.

1.Egt gauge and tranny temp gauge to see the warnings before the damage.

2.9psi is on the conservative side, (where I run mine also) but with a gauge you could use a few more psi to help.

3. 4" exhaust, removes a lot of the restriction, lowers egt,and some report a lil bump in mpg and power.

4. QUALITY injectors. Not cheap injectors and for the love of gm no "40 hp" bragging marine ho ones from "ahem" ... Well just mention the deal before you buy and you'll be ok.

5.did you turn in the fuel screw in the ip yet? 1/8 turn will help a lil, 1/4 turn will help you smile.

6.(I only say this last to tease WarWagon) loose the gm economy turbo , and get a ATTor hxII . More power and less stress on the engine. Several guys here showing the ATT paying for itself in fuel savings in a short time. Each gm turbo was to small. This really is the biggest mistake gm made with these engines IMO.
 
I have a brake controller. It's not a cheap one. It cost me 200 dollars. I wish at this price it would Mel me something to eat while I'm driving. Any what's I checked the trailer and the rig rolled good on flat land. The control is working correctly
 
Sounds typical to me for stock with miles on the motor, remember these are fuel miser motors in stock form... With that said, you do need gauges to really tell what the motor is really doing. Turn the fuel screw up 1/4 turn or more, you could use a little more boost but not a lot with nothing done to the motor. Auto or stick tranny, tire size, etc will help us some ...

Go to your profile page and fill out your signature with the truck info....
 
Got the siginture figured out. Hope it helps. How much does the egts go up when you turn the pump up. How long and what tools do you need to turn the db2 up?
 
Go into the pump from the drivers side of the motor. Take off the intake and then slide the side pump cover up out of the way. Turn over the motor till you see the tiny hex nut inside the small hole.

I have not done mine yet. I am waiting till after I install my new injectors. My current ones have 210,000+ miles on them.
 
egt's aren't to be guessed about when tuning. If you don't have one, it isn't much $$ and easy to install, then you will KNOW when you have turned the pump up as much as the heat will allow for safe pulling....

as for how much the egt will go up is just a guess... I'll give you a good guess IF you can tell me the egt it runs now??
 
Forgot, search youtube for turning up a db2 / 6.2 and such, there are a few good ones to watch..

Edit-- what gear are you towing in, and what are the rpm's at that time..
 
egt's aren't to be guessed about when tuning. If you don't have one, it isn't much $$ and easy to install, then you will KNOW when you have turned the pump up as much as the heat will allow for safe pulling....

as for how much the egt will go up is just a guess... I'll give you a good guess IF you can tell me the egt it runs now??

What is a safe egt number for 6.5? I can't remember I have seen a number once I think 1200 deg.
 
How much of your $ do we get to spend? Seriously though fill out the signature area with details on the truck so we know what you have done so far.

1.Egt gauge and tranny temp gauge to see the warnings before the damage.

2.9psi is on the conservative side, (where I run mine also) but with a gauge you could use a few more psi to help.

3. 4" exhaust, removes a lot of the restriction, lowers egt,and some report a lil bump in mpg and power.

4. QUALITY injectors. Not cheap injectors and for the love of gm no "40 hp" bragging marine ho ones from "ahem" ... Well just mention the deal before you buy and you'll be ok.

5.did you turn in the fuel screw in the ip yet? 1/8 turn will help a lil, 1/4 turn will help you smile.

6.(I only say this last to tease WarWagon) loose the gm economy turbo , and get a ATTor hxII . More power and less stress on the engine. Several guys here showing the ATT paying for itself in fuel savings in a short time. Each gm turbo was to small. This really is the biggest mistake gm made with these engines IMO.

I bought new injectors about 10,000 miles ago. I bought them from a local pump shop that uses bosch tips. I will not buy Chinese injectors and the 40HP injectors, I say are a joke unless you upgrade the ip.
 
I've been looking around talking to ATT and I'm going to buy a att, egt gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and the 2.25" cross over pipe along with the 4" exhaust. Hoping Santa will bring it this year or i'll have them installed for next summer. Leaving the trailer at my dads so i dont do damage to my engine. One more question, I've been thinking about the 18:1 pistons and have heard that they are great for towing. My dually does a lot of towing 80% of the time I drive it. Would this be a good option to put into one of my short blocks and build the engine for towing? I was looking sctrailrider's photos on his build and spark some thoughts in my head. Figure depending how much the pistons cost and was thinking of a better crank I would start building now and finish by winter. Then install this winter depending how things go this year since my wife and I are expecting in july.
 
I've been looking around talking to ATT and I'm going to buy a att, egt gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and the 2.25" cross over pipe along with the 4" exhaust. Hoping Santa will bring it this year or i'll have them installed for next summer. Leaving the trailer at my dads so i dont do damage to my engine. One more question, I've been thinking about the 18:1 pistons and have heard that they are great for towing. My dually does a lot of towing 80% of the time I drive it. Would this be a good option to put into one of my short blocks and build the engine for towing? I was looking sctrailrider's photos on his build and spark some thoughts in my head. Figure depending how much the pistons cost and was thinking of a better crank I would start building now and finish by winter. Then install this winter depending how things go this year since my wife and I are expecting in july.

Cooling mods? Start there before the 20+ year old fan clutch and 6 blade bad joke fan goes to the scrap yard with the attached blown 6.5 engine behind it. You need a HO water pump from a 1998+, new fan clutch from a 1998+, 1998 20" steel or 21" 2002 Duramax fan. Single T stat housing is fine. Kennedy Diesel makes a nice special calibration fan clutch that I use and love in 4 bolt or the newer thread on water pump. You could also use a thread on water pump, but, I find the new (not rebuilt) 4 bolt pumps do the job.

IMO if ECT is below 210: EGT is only telling you where the turbo melts down. With a large turbo like the ATT and 4" exhaust I have sustained 1550 EGT towing on a 7% grade. A smaller turbo like the restrictive GMx will keep more heat in the engine as it can't get out the exhaust so your results may vary. 1550 EGT efficient, no. Going to melt an engine down - I haven't seen it and not for a lack of trying.

You will hurt the engine if you let the ECT get over 210. This I have done.

The ATT will pay for itself with fuel savings in my case going from 7 MPG to 10 MPG towing.

http://maxxtorque.com/dieselcommuni...ods/244-the-65-factory-equipped-asthma-attack

I have done extreme towing with both stock and the higher 6.2 compression. Compression means power and efficiency so I am not fond of the EPA lower compression for lower NOx emissions. With the ATT you are not using the extreme boost to make up for 18:1 so I wouldn't recommend it. It also makes it harder to start.
 
Cooling mods? Start there before the 20+ year old fan clutch and 6 blade bad joke fan goes to the scrap yard with the attached blown 6.5 engine behind it. You need a HO water pump from a 1998+, new fan clutch from a 1998+, 1998 20" steel or 21" 2002 Duramax fan. Single T stat housing is fine. Kennedy Diesel makes a nice special calibration fan clutch that I use and love in 4 bolt or the newer thread on water pump. You could also use a thread on water pump, but, I find the new (not rebuilt) 4 bolt pumps do the job.

IMO if ECT is below 210: EGT is only telling you where the turbo melts down. With a large turbo like the ATT and 4" exhaust I have sustained 1550 EGT towing on a 7% grade. A smaller turbo like the restrictive GMx will keep more heat in the engine as it can't get out the exhaust so your results may vary. 1550 EGT efficient, no. Going to melt an engine down - I haven't seen it and not for a lack of trying.

You will hurt the engine if you let the ECT get over 210. This I have done.

The ATT will pay for itself with fuel savings in my case going from 7 MPG to 10 MPG towing.

http://maxxtorque.com/dieselcommuni...ods/244-the-65-factory-equipped-asthma-attack

I have done extreme towing with both stock and the higher 6.2 compression. Compression means power and efficiency so I am not fond of the EPA lower compression for lower NOx emissions. With the ATT you are not using the extreme boost to make up for 18:1 so I wouldn't recommend it. It also makes it harder to start.

Did you write that article? If you did now I understand why I run across people saying talk to warwagon he know about pushing the 6.5 to there limits. Nice article by the way. It has a lot of information.
 
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