Security problem?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Passlock has ALWAYS been 3 sequences. The only time 1 sequence does it is of it's a 07.5+, and you install a NEW ECM, then it will take the code on the 1st attempt. Otherwise they're all 3 key sequences(except for early passkey system's, but that's a completely different can of worms). And I highly doubt your cluster is causing the issue. It's only connection to the TDM is a bulb.

 

[OBE]

Passlock has ALWAYS been 3 sequences. The only time 1 sequence does it is of it's a 07.5+, and you install a NEW ECM, then it will take the code on the 1st attempt. Otherwise they're all 3 key sequences(except for early passkey system's, but that's a completely different can of worms). And I highly doubt your cluster is causing the issue. It's only connection to the TDM is a bulb.

Whatdya think about that splice method, with the yellow wire? Will it really cancel out the Passcode?

 

[OBE]

Passlock has ALWAYS been 3 sequences. The only time 1 sequence does it is of it's a 07.5+, and you install a NEW ECM, then it will take the code on the 1st attempt. Otherwise they're all 3 key sequences(except for early passkey system's, but that's a completely different can of worms). And I highly doubt your cluster is causing the issue. It's only connection to the TDM is a bulb.

Well, I got out there and played with my baby all morning. It started right up. I repaired the lens on the cluster the best I could. It looks great and it's sealed-up so no more dust can get inside. I tried to buy a new lens but forget that!

The fuel gauge stayed on E. I put a tag on it and took it for a run. I forgot how damn GREAT it runs! I topped-off both fuel tanks and ran down the road. When I got back I shut it off, waited a few minutes, then started it again and the fuel gauge read FULL.

I'm going to put tags and insurance on it an run it as my everyday vehicle to get all the bugs out, then I'm going to go get my trailer (the one in the picture) clean them both all up and put a FOR SALE sign on 'em. I don't use them anymore, since I retired, and I'd like to get-back some of the money, I sank into them.

I appreciate everyone's help.

 

[OBE]

Passlock has ALWAYS been 3 sequences. The only time 1 sequence does it is of it's a 07.5+, and you install a NEW ECM, then it will take the code on the 1st attempt. Otherwise they're all 3 key sequences(except for early passkey system's, but that's a completely different can of worms). And I highly doubt your cluster is causing the issue. It's only connection to the TDM is a bulb.

I'm gonna change the oil. Is it okay to use Mobil 1? (the synthetic oil)

As you can tell. I'm "old school." I finally broke-down and used Mobil 1, in my '97 and '05 Equinox, several years ago, and I love it. We put almost no miles on our vehicles anymore and that Mobil 1 stays nice-n-clear with a once-a-year oil change.

 

[Will L.]

Before you change to mobil 1 just before selling- what oil have you been running?

The synthetics have smaller molecules and can penetrate seals (cause little leaks) in the right circumstances.

Swapping to a synthetic oil, while normally good- may be doing the next owner some harm. And it isn't like 1 oil change into synthetic is going to help you or the next owner with anything if you have been running dino all these years.

 

[OBE]

Before you change to mobil 1 just before selling- what oil have you been running?

The synthetics have smaller molecules and can penetrate seals (cause little leaks) in the right circumstances.

Swapping to a synthetic oil, while normally good- may be doing the next owner some harm. And it isn't like 1 oil change into synthetic is going to help you or the next owner with anything if you have been running dino all these years.

Good advice...Thanx

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I would skip the synthetic and stick with dino oil. I'm getti,g ready to go back to dino oil because I'm starting to seep oil with synthetic's.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

As to your fuel guage, the factory dual tank setup is a NIGHTMARE! Theres a thread here detailing how it works, but the basic setup works with the 2 tanks, a transfer pump to move fuel from the rear tank to the front tank, a sender in each tank that is ran to a balance module(it is supposed to be mounted on the frame rail near the engines lift pump) that controls the transfer pump and converts the 2 tank senders values into 1 for the guage, once the fuel level in the front tank begins to drop below around 3/4 or so, the balance module activates the transfer pump to start moving fuel from the rear tank to the front tank, if the fuel level in the front tank gets back near 7/8, it stops the transfer pump to prevent overfilling the front tank. If the balance module detects ANY abnormality in the system such as a fuel level not following what it should do like the rear tank level not dropping with the transfer pump on, the front level continuing to rise after the pump is shut off, a bad spot in the sender where it rapidly fluctuates(VERY common problem for the sender contacts to oxidize when it's allowed to sit), pretty much ANYTHING, it disables the transfer pump, and can send the guage to empty.

As to the vats, most either install the baker electronics bypass so as to eliminate the whole vats system, install a resistor in place of the sensor in the ignition switch and do a theft learn to the resistors value(if you can match the resistor in the current switch, you shouldn't have to do a relearn), or either have vats disabled in the ecm or swap in a 96 ecm without vats.

 

[OBE]

As to your fuel guage, the factory dual tank setup is a NIGHTMARE! Theres a thread here detailing how it works, but the basic setup works with the 2 tanks, a transfer pump to move fuel from the rear tank to the front tank, a sender in each tank that is ran to a balance module(it is supposed to be mounted on the frame rail near the engines lift pump) that controls the transfer pump and converts the 2 tank senders values into 1 for the guage, once the fuel level in the front tank begins to drop below around 3/4 or so, the balance module activates the transfer pump to start moving fuel from the rear tank to the front tank, if the fuel level in the front tank gets back near 7/8, it stops the transfer pump to prevent overfilling the front tank. If the balance module detects ANY abnormality in the system such as a fuel level not following what it should do like the rear tank level not dropping with the transfer pump on, the front level continuing to rise after the pump is shut off, a bad spot in the sender where it rapidly fluctuates(VERY common problem for the sender contacts to oxidize when it's allowed to sit), pretty much ANYTHING, it disables the transfer pump, and can send the guage to empty.

As to the vats, most either install the baker electronics bypass so as to eliminate the whole vats system, install a resistor in place of the sensor in the ignition switch and do a theft learn to the resistors value(if you can match the resistor in the current switch, you shouldn't have to do a relearn), or either have vats disabled in the ecm or swap in a 96 ecm without vats.

Great stuff Franken! You're describing my truck. It went to "almost" F, the next time I started it, after I filled the tanks. It fluctuates, though. (it moves between about 5/8 Full and 7/8 Full, but it SHOULD be at "F" 'cause the tanks are Full) Then, another time, it went to E but the next time I drove it, it was back to the "almost F"

I was back (mounting a license plate on it) and I heard an intermittent "clicking sound" coming from the rear tank. I put a brand new pump in this tank. The front tank is original, though, so there may be oxidation on the sender.

I've been giving it a run, each day, on the Interstate (near my house) and I had forgotten how great this damn thing runs! I don't know if I told you, but we had this motor changed. It was a plumber's truck with a utility body on it. The guy junked it because of a bad motor and we had a motor for it in the yard.