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Security problem?

WestVdiesel

WestVdiesel

New Member
Messages
26
Reaction score
7
Location
Hedgesville WV
Hey everyone recently replaced ingnition switch and ignition housing had the batteries unhooked the whole time for about a week now finnally got all the parts and put it all together now my security light is on the truck will crank but no start it might sputter for litterally a second but thats it the truck is a 98 gmc sierra 2500 6.5 any help would be appericiated
 
You need to do search there is a procedure to get the PCM to learn. I've also read where people resorted to having the PCM flashed to disable the security feature.
 
Want to also mention that i used the factory lock cylinder and now to get the key to turn i need to wiggle the shifter and the key if that would have anything to do with it i tripple checked all connections everything is as it should
 
If the key doesn't move smoothly, the hall effect sensor for the vats system will not send the signal to the tdm to trigger the ecm to turn the fuel on. You can try and do a vats relearn, but if the key doesn't move smoothly, you have an issue somewhere. You can always bypass the system by installing a resistor across the sensor wires, and then doing a vats relearn bypassing the sensor in the ignition switch.
 
Ok tommorow i will tear everything back apart recheck everything if the key still has problems ill go and get a new key cylinder and try that
 
Update.. installed a new lock cylinder smoothed everything right out went threw the sequence to teach the security system truck finnally fired up and is now running again.......next job to tackle is the horrid brakes thanks all for your help
 
Glad your running again. Remember the rock auto discount code for the 5% off.
Burnishing the new pads once installed gives them better performance and longer life.

For any other security issues, resort to an M4 with some Black Hills inside it.;)
 
Will L. said:
Glad your running again. Remember the rock auto discount code for the 5% off.
Burnishing the new pads once installed gives them better performance and longer life.

For any other security issues, resort to an M4 with some Black Hills inside it.;)
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Cant beat america's sweetheart throwing some 62grain pills:shame:.. what would be some reccomendations as far as getting better stopping power is there a certain brand of pads, rotors, etc everyone likes
 
Please, put your vehicle in your signature line and this can be addressed better, on your brake question. Several here have swapped in disc brake kits or a conversion of some sort, which I would like to do some day also. For stockers, though, they're pretty sufficient in my opinion, as long as the rear drums are adjusted properly. I don't know the necessary frequency of this, but it is probably an every oil change check. If not, then I would guess at least every other. My '95 will stop with very little pedal pressure when adjusted properly.

Ceramic pads will do a fine job and you won't have to stop to clean your front rims every time you pull up to a stop sign.

Glad you got the ignition issue worked out and welcome to the forum
 
SnowDrift said:
Please, put your vehicle in your signature line and this can be addressed better, on your brake question. Several here have swapped in disc brake kits or a conversion of some sort, which I would like to do some day also. For stockers, though, they're pretty sufficient in my opinion, as long as the rear drums are adjusted properly. I don't know the necessary frequency of this, but it is probably an every oil change check. If not, then I would guess at least every other. My '95 will stop with very little pedal pressure when adjusted properly.

Ceramic pads will do a fine job and you won't have to stop to clean your front rims every time you pull up to a stop sign.

Glad you got the ignition issue worked out and welcome to the forum
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Tried ceramics once, NEVER again. Piss poor cold braking and chewed the rotors up. I can deal with some brake dust to have them work all the time. As to your brakes, there are affordable options, and some others. Have to know what you have to say what options there are. You say 98 2500, is it 6 or 8 lug? 9.5 or 10.5" rear axle? Which rear drums does it currently have? GM did not use a one size fits all approach to brakes.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Tried ceramics once, NEVER again. Piss poor cold braking and chewed the rotors up. I can deal with some brake dust to have them work all the time. As to your brakes, there are affordable options, and some others. Have to know what you have to say what options there are. You say 98 2500, is it 6 or 8 lug? 9.5 or 10.5" rear axle? Which rear drums does it currently have? GM did not use a one size fits all approach to brakes.
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Its an 8 lug 14 bolt 10.5 rear hydroboost full floater if that helps any
 
WestVdiesel said:
Its an 8 lug 14 bolt 10.5 rear hydroboost full floater if that helps any
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If you have a 4x4, you have a few options. You can either swap over to the 3500 dual rear wheel stuff, or do the gmt-800 swap. If you have a 2 wheel drive, then theres no easy options, but about your only option is to go to the gmt-800 stuff, swap over to hub bearings, all the rest, and hope you can get the knuckles to work as you would be the 1st I've read of trying it with a 2 wheel drive.

Heres some reading if you have a 4x4.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-88-00-obs-and-94-99-dodge-2500-3500.44950/
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Tried ceramics once, NEVER again. Piss poor cold braking and chewed the rotors up. I can deal with some brake dust to have them work all the time. .
Click to expand...

This really surprises me to hear this. I've never had issues with them. I have ceramic pads on our '94 Suburban and our '99 Grand Prix and I've not ever noticed any different performance when warm or cold. I also don't see excessive wear on rotors. I put brakes on the Suburban at 89,000 miles and have only replaced them one time since then. Today, it has 248,000 on it.

I can't remember which material it was, but on dad's '92 6.5, it would about slam you through the front windshield if you tapped the brake pedal for the first time if it was raining or damp. Perhaps, it was the brand.

On edit - I read that article that WarWagon posted up on the police test for brakes. I probably don't hammer on my brakes like some do, so maybe my comment doesn't qualify for credibility.
 
Last edited:
THEFERMANATOR said:
If you have a 4x4, you have a few options. You can either swap over to the 3500 dual rear wheel stuff, or do the gmt-800 swap. If you have a 2 wheel drive, then theres no easy options, but about your only option is to go to the gmt-800 stuff, swap over to hub bearings, all the rest, and hope you can get the knuckles to work as you would be the 1st I've read of trying it with a 2 wheel drive.

Heres some reading if you have a 4x4.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-88-00-obs-and-94-99-dodge-2500-3500.44950/
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Yea mine is a 4x4 thats some great infor there i thing im going to try the dually upgrades and braided brake lines like you said in the other thread i think thattl make a big difference btw is anyone having troubles with there brake fluid resivoir always leaking ive replace the whole assembly once before and it just keeps leaking like the one before around the bottom where the resivoir goes into the cylinder
 
WestVdiesel said:
Hey everyone recently replaced ingnition switch and ignition housing had the batteries unhooked the whole time for about a week now finnally got all the parts and put it all together now my security light is on the truck will crank but no start it might sputter for litterally a second but thats it the truck is a 98 gmc sierra 2500 6.5 any help would be appericiated
Click to expand...
I've got a 2000 Chev K3500 6.5 Diesel that is driving me crazy. I had the intermittent shut-off problem, but it would start after repeated cranking. Then I had the rear fuel tank sender go bad and the two and that compounded my problem. I'd like to follow your posts to see if I can learn something.
 
OBE said:
I've got a 2000 Chev K3500 6.5 Diesel that is driving me crazy. I had the intermittent shut-off problem, but it would start after repeated cranking. Then I had the rear fuel tank sender go bad and the two and that compounded my problem. I'd like to follow your posts to see if I can learn something.
Click to expand...
Have you replaced your pmd yet?
 
Is your truck throwing any codes, and how long ago did you replace your pmd, do you have any weird electrical problems for example my dome light was flickering on when cranking the truck, when your truck shuts off is it just the engine or is it everything like as if your battery came unhooked, also check all battery grounds as well, replace your lift pump if you havent already there commonly go out and dont usually throw codes which could cause the truck to hard start its a relatively cheap part and very easy to replace
 
WestVdiesel said:
Is your truck throwing any codes, and how long ago did you replace your pmd, do you have any weird electrical problems for example my dome light was flickering on when cranking the truck, when your truck shuts off is it just the engine or is it everything like as if your battery came unhooked, also check all battery grounds as well, replace your lift pump if you havent already there commonly go out and dont usually throw codes which could cause the truck to hard start its a relatively cheap part and very easy to replace
Click to expand...
Weird electrical problem: My hazard button doesn't work properly. It makes the turn signals goofy. I simply stopped using it.
This truck always fired right up. Couple cranks (after glow plugs heated up) and boom! When it would die, I would simply stop and try to restart it. Sometimes it would start right up. Then sometimes I had to crank a little, get nothing, crank a little, get nothing, then over and over. Sometimes, after dozens of tries, it would kick right over like nothing was wrong which seems like a loose wire or something.
 
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