Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
A schoolcraft engine is a premium item for sure.
Having just been through a build myself I can assure you, that the stuff RJ does is the cat meow.
I did what was needed to make a fairly good engine.
The machining that RJ does is the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
Now if the $$$$$$$$$$$ scare you off then you obviously dont need an engine that can run SET ON KILL and live.
The fancy machine work is all done for a reason and that is to assure that the engine will be able to survive hard usage under the worst conditions.
The splayed mains will assure a block that will live.
Ballancing the rotating assembly stops a lot of the internal stresses that kill cranks and blocks.
Ballancing is also free Horsepower. An engine that is not smooth takes more power to move itself.
Time is money. Doing a job right take more time and thus more money.
Tending to all the little details is something few shops even know how to do.
The price RJ gets for a custom engine is not all that bad considering that it is indeed a hand built engine.
My DaHoooley build after buying many brand name parts off Ebay and some Mil surplus was close to $2500.00
The machine work was minimal in the cost.
Good used block $350
Pistons $199
Rings $35 (yes mil surplus off ebay)
Bearings $50 set mains and rods (ebay)
Lifters $168 (remans)
Water pump (new napa) $100 approx
Gaskets $100
Cometic head gasket for RH side $150
Timing chain $60
Cam bearings and install $60
Bore and fit pistons $200
Deck block $200 Time consuming to do right
Injectors (Mine rebuilt) $260
Misc items such as hoses, clamps, sealers, paint ect likely $200
Rods rebushed top end $200
I used my crank, cam and accessories.
Head bolts new TTY $70
New Radiator (not part of normal build package) $235
Oil and filters including air filter $100
Now I bought the outer main bolt hole inserts myself at about $8 each X 6 and did the machine work myself.
All the assembly was done in my shop by me.
The heads were used $200
I disassembled them and cleaned all parts.
Reassembled with new stem seals only, seats and valves were fairly fresh.
Pressure test heads $80 for the set.
There was no special things done to this block or heads.
This was not what I call a top notch build by any means.
I knew what I could get away with and pushed things to the limit.
I cut corners where I could by buying off ebay but yet still used top notch parts.
Used crank with ???? miles (Crate engine and maybe 70K on it)
Used cam with same miles.
Block was a 929 with who knows what miles.
Did not ballance the rotating assembly. Did even the pistons up to an average of what the stock ones weigh and made them all the same.
Heads got a used set of "T" precups as the ones there were not a matched set.
Used the original rockers and pushrods.
Used the factory squirt block oil pump that came from the failed 506 engine.
An RJ engine is a real lovely piece. If you want a real jewel than the price he asks is very fair indeed.
A Missy Good Wench hack job, not nearly that much ):h
Just all depends on what you want it to do.
The little six and half needs everything going for it that it can get in order to live a good long life and stay together.
You indeed get what you pay for.
A new P400 6.5 will set you back about $8000.00 or so
These are only a stock production engine. Granted, better than what our trucks came with but nothing even close to what you get in a custom built unit from RJ.
My engine, done the way I did it and from a shop would have been spendy.
I took many many extra hours to tend to details that shops just dont even understand in most cases let alone do.
The little things like deburing all the sharp edges in the lower end and chamfering all the bolt holes and such. This stuff takes time and cost $$$$$$$$ to have someone do this by hand.
The inserted lower end, I sell that for $240 (Parts and labor)
I wanted a forged crank ($900)
A scat cast steel crank ($450)
New heads from clearwater $670 for a set to the door.
Ballance job $250 give or take.
It is not cheap to do any of this.
Doing it right costs BUCKS.
Doing it halfway will see it done twice
A factory crate engine from GM is a half step above junk IMHO.
I would love to start with a fresh aftermarket block. (Non squirt)
New clearwater heads
Forged crank
Reconed stock rods with new bushings and bolts
New pistons, rings
Mahle or clevite bearings
New lifters
Good cam Used ok if good shape.
New timing chain (used gears ok)
New HO oil pump
Fresh injectors
New or recon 5521 IP
Fluid damper
Ballance the rotating assembly to HP specs (racing)
HO water pump with dual stats.
Now I will run the risk of bragging a bit. I have built many 6.2/6.5engines and all are still alive and well.
I have built blown gas BBC engines for race boats that produced well over 1000HP and turned RPMs in the land of 10,000.
Now a BBC spining at near 10K right close to you (DRAG BOAT) is frightening in and of itself.
Never blew one apart.
There is a right way and a wrong way to do things.
A 6.5 is a 3500 RPM engine.
Very slow, but these little beasts go into destruct mode as soon as you lite the fire in them.
The stresses in these little diesels is trying to tear them apart from the gitgo and there is only one way to keep that in check.
Build them right and use the best machine shop practices and parts available.
Lessen as many of the destructive forces as possible and eliminate as many stress risers in the process of the build.
Bleed on the thing much and bless with a bottle of Holy water before starting.
If you have done your job right and followed the best practices the thing will live and run well.
RJ is very opinionated yesss he is. So am I and I try to pass along the right stuff to those here that can benefit from what took me a lifetime to learn the HARD WAY.
I do fully understand that many of us can't afford a $10K engine for a truck that is maybe worth $5K top book.
There is always a way to make something that will suffice and get the job done.
Just some observations
MISSY
Having just been through a build myself I can assure you, that the stuff RJ does is the cat meow.
I did what was needed to make a fairly good engine.
The machining that RJ does is the "RIGHT WAY" to do it.
Now if the $$$$$$$$$$$ scare you off then you obviously dont need an engine that can run SET ON KILL and live.
The fancy machine work is all done for a reason and that is to assure that the engine will be able to survive hard usage under the worst conditions.
The splayed mains will assure a block that will live.
Ballancing the rotating assembly stops a lot of the internal stresses that kill cranks and blocks.
Ballancing is also free Horsepower. An engine that is not smooth takes more power to move itself.
Time is money. Doing a job right take more time and thus more money.
Tending to all the little details is something few shops even know how to do.
The price RJ gets for a custom engine is not all that bad considering that it is indeed a hand built engine.
My DaHoooley build after buying many brand name parts off Ebay and some Mil surplus was close to $2500.00
The machine work was minimal in the cost.
Good used block $350
Pistons $199
Rings $35 (yes mil surplus off ebay)
Bearings $50 set mains and rods (ebay)
Lifters $168 (remans)
Water pump (new napa) $100 approx
Gaskets $100
Cometic head gasket for RH side $150
Timing chain $60
Cam bearings and install $60
Bore and fit pistons $200
Deck block $200 Time consuming to do right
Injectors (Mine rebuilt) $260
Misc items such as hoses, clamps, sealers, paint ect likely $200
Rods rebushed top end $200
I used my crank, cam and accessories.
Head bolts new TTY $70
New Radiator (not part of normal build package) $235
Oil and filters including air filter $100
Now I bought the outer main bolt hole inserts myself at about $8 each X 6 and did the machine work myself.
All the assembly was done in my shop by me.
The heads were used $200
I disassembled them and cleaned all parts.
Reassembled with new stem seals only, seats and valves were fairly fresh.
Pressure test heads $80 for the set.
There was no special things done to this block or heads.
This was not what I call a top notch build by any means.
I knew what I could get away with and pushed things to the limit.
I cut corners where I could by buying off ebay but yet still used top notch parts.
Used crank with ???? miles (Crate engine and maybe 70K on it)
Used cam with same miles.
Block was a 929 with who knows what miles.
Did not ballance the rotating assembly. Did even the pistons up to an average of what the stock ones weigh and made them all the same.
Heads got a used set of "T" precups as the ones there were not a matched set.
Used the original rockers and pushrods.
Used the factory squirt block oil pump that came from the failed 506 engine.
An RJ engine is a real lovely piece. If you want a real jewel than the price he asks is very fair indeed.
A Missy Good Wench hack job, not nearly that much ):h
Just all depends on what you want it to do.
The little six and half needs everything going for it that it can get in order to live a good long life and stay together.
You indeed get what you pay for.
A new P400 6.5 will set you back about $8000.00 or so
These are only a stock production engine. Granted, better than what our trucks came with but nothing even close to what you get in a custom built unit from RJ.
My engine, done the way I did it and from a shop would have been spendy.
I took many many extra hours to tend to details that shops just dont even understand in most cases let alone do.
The little things like deburing all the sharp edges in the lower end and chamfering all the bolt holes and such. This stuff takes time and cost $$$$$$$$ to have someone do this by hand.
The inserted lower end, I sell that for $240 (Parts and labor)
I wanted a forged crank ($900)
A scat cast steel crank ($450)
New heads from clearwater $670 for a set to the door.
Ballance job $250 give or take.
It is not cheap to do any of this.
Doing it right costs BUCKS.
Doing it halfway will see it done twice
A factory crate engine from GM is a half step above junk IMHO.
I would love to start with a fresh aftermarket block. (Non squirt)
New clearwater heads
Forged crank
Reconed stock rods with new bushings and bolts
New pistons, rings
Mahle or clevite bearings
New lifters
Good cam Used ok if good shape.
New timing chain (used gears ok)
New HO oil pump
Fresh injectors
New or recon 5521 IP
Fluid damper
Ballance the rotating assembly to HP specs (racing)
HO water pump with dual stats.
Now I will run the risk of bragging a bit. I have built many 6.2/6.5engines and all are still alive and well.
I have built blown gas BBC engines for race boats that produced well over 1000HP and turned RPMs in the land of 10,000.
Now a BBC spining at near 10K right close to you (DRAG BOAT) is frightening in and of itself.
Never blew one apart.
There is a right way and a wrong way to do things.
A 6.5 is a 3500 RPM engine.
Very slow, but these little beasts go into destruct mode as soon as you lite the fire in them.
The stresses in these little diesels is trying to tear them apart from the gitgo and there is only one way to keep that in check.
Build them right and use the best machine shop practices and parts available.
Lessen as many of the destructive forces as possible and eliminate as many stress risers in the process of the build.
Bleed on the thing much and bless with a bottle of Holy water before starting.
If you have done your job right and followed the best practices the thing will live and run well.
RJ is very opinionated yesss he is. So am I and I try to pass along the right stuff to those here that can benefit from what took me a lifetime to learn the HARD WAY.
I do fully understand that many of us can't afford a $10K engine for a truck that is maybe worth $5K top book.
There is always a way to make something that will suffice and get the job done.
Just some observations
MISSY
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