• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

School me on fifth wheel campers

rhino or Linex are available in any color now-

Good to know!

Still not so sure that I'd go that way. Dug into this a bit and saw an article from LineX where the typical weight of a LineX job is 90# (am presuming for a pickup bed). In doing the math for a ~30' RV, this comes to the mid 300's. While the CG effect might not bother some, that much weight is a factor for me for raw weight if nothing else. As my TT sits now, a full tank of water and stapels for a weekend are just inside the trailer's limit. Adding another 300#'s will take me over. Sure, some folkes see weight ratings as a suggestion, but there are some ratings that I try not to play with as I do not like needing to buy new toys from abusing the old ones :)


Ferm, good point about salt. Guess I am far enough away from the ocean so that salt is not a factor, and that the manufacturer painted the aluminum.


The campers I worked had the walls set on top of the flooring. Always got a kick out of that

The trailers that I am familiar with are built with the walls that sit on the flooring as well. Seems that the bottom end and upper shells are built in parallel, then the shell gets put on to the bottom end, and the innerds finished from there. Commonly see where carpeting goes on the floor prior to any of the cabinetry as well. Am not sure whether this is a structural thing or a simple efficiency of production thing. Agree that it does look funny though.
 
I meant the walls were set on the finished flooring. Carpet and linoleum. They built the deck. Put the flooring down, then did everything else.
Okay, now that makes sense. Nope, the walls of my finished product sets firmly on the plywood floor and bolts through the bottom plate, the floor edge plate and into the trailer frame.
I used to do repair on trailer houses/mobile homes, the way You describe was the way everyone of them I had ever seen was built. What a mess. 😹😹😹😹
 
Currently full timing in my mid 2000's Thor toyhauler (34ft), no slides. Put about 2000 miles on it so far this year, and now it makes a 450 mile round trip every few weeks for work.

Water damage is to be expected on any unit with a few years on it, mine has 2 small soft spots at the rear floor where outside access panels leaked. Also through the AC when it rains in the right direction.

If moving often or for long distance an air ride or polymer hitch makes a huge difference whether gooseneck or 5th wheel. If I keep moving it this often its going to get a suspension upgrade as well (has shocks already, might go air or the Timbren silent ride system). The difference is huge with just the hitch change.

Boonedocking, I have added some solar capability to mine at currently 400 watts and a pair of 100 amp hour agm batts. Not much, but its enough to run the wifi, couple fans, 12v side of the fridge on propane, along with the desktop/42"tv during the afternoon. Going to step it up to 1200 watts in a few weeks which will be enough to run the AC part of the day. Also 4k watt inverter and used to run a smaller 700 watt for just the wifi/pellet grill but now just the big unit.

Water filtration is another good upgrade with how water quality varies. First thing i added, and all water is filtered before it even goes into the fresh tank. Using the Clear Source Ultra with no complaints.

Black water tank, unconventional but I pour a few cans of Vanilla Coke down the toilet right away. Even after 6 weeks (usual for me to fill it) it doesn't stink and it flows well with no 'poo mountain' problems.

20200907_140031.jpg20200813_170000.jpg
 
Whether your rv requires simple repairing or a RV roof installation both are important decisions. But why worry yourself when there is a long-term, durable solution. Liquid RV Roof can easily repair the damage done to the roof and prevent potential issues down the road. With the right roofing solution, you can gain peace of mind, and protect your investment.For More Detail please visit:
 
Welcome to TTS!

EDPM is nice (am presuming we are looking at the paint-on stuff), although it does come with additional maintenance of cleaning to get rid of bio growth in non-arid climates. Doing nothing will allow mildew and alge to grow. A secondary benefit of paint-on EDPM is that it will help insulate which in turn lowers heat load inside the RV from the sun and lowers noise from a heavy downpour.

EDPM will add weight to the RV's roof, although not as much as the spray-on liners discussed earlier in this thread.

While EDPM has a noted useful life of 30+ years (per the industry sponsored 'studies' that I found), this comes with a caveat that prep work is done correctly and there is good drainage (read: water is not allowed to sit). Keeping water from sitting on a flat RV roof might prove a small challenge. Sure, it is possible to set the RV's jacks so that the rig has a slight tilt, but not everybody is comfortable with this.

And from a perspective of experience, I did apply EDPM once and liked the benefits. But after a couple years it started to get unsightly and am not sure that I would do it again.
 
Back
Top