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Saying hi and needing help!

After opening my hood and dumping in a wheelbarrow full of money, my truck now starts cold in less than a second, with just a touch of black smoke out the pipe. Before, I would crank and crank and crank, and if it started, it smoked up the whole block with white smoke.

Make sure the plugs that connect to your glows are good and tight. I took all mine out of the ceramic ends and squeezed them with pliers. All the ones on the passenger side broke. Whoever installed my original glows had bent a little curve in each of the spade connectors to tighten up the connections. If yours are loose, you might try putting a little bend in the glow plug spades to tighten up the connections.
 
I still dont understand anyhting about what youre really accomplishing with tapping on the override. Take some pics. How is this wired? You tap on the override and the stock system works?

Is the SES light coming on the times that the WTS light does not? There is a common IGN issue if your PCM isnt actually getting the signal to start the Glos.
 
Good idea mitchedo, I'll check the glow plug connections again. Buddy I'll take some pics and post them. I am definitly not a pro (or even a novice!) at describing malfunctioning relays but I'll try.
Tapping the relay goes back to my old ford days and their starters. These relay sometimes stick and would not start/engage starter motor due to the electromagnetic contact within relay not engaging, if you tap the relay it would free up the contact inside and allow it to engage once energized and the old ford starter would work. I deduced that since it was the same relay if tapped, it would engage the contact once energized and cycle the glow plug controller and it worked. Discovering this I assumed the relay was bad and bought a new one, installed it, and it worked fine for a few days and it started doing the same thing again! So you are correct in asking buddy how is it wired?
I can't anwser that question just yet because I am trying to understand completely how the previous owner did this:confused:. I will post some pics. The SES light never comes on when the WTS light does not, I agree with you buddy there is a common IGN problem, I just don't no where to go at this point!:confused:
 
You have an IGN issue then, if the SES light does not come on with IGN set to on. OR like always a ground issue. Check to make sure there is a ground on one of the passenger side intake bolts ot the rear. You could verify the grounds in the PCM, if you have a digital multimeter and dont mind pulling it out and testing continuity (ohms) from each of the supposed grounds to a good chassis/engine/battery ground.
 
Buddy, thanks! That makes sense, I have tried everything else. I'll go through the system/s, w/multimeter & check continuity across grounds, battery, etc.
Thanks for all the help, all of you!:thumbsup: I'll have to wait a day or two before I do this (currently working nights:mad2:). I'll keep you guys posted on progress. Why are these trucks/engines so sensitive to ground issues or is it just diesel engines in general (still learning:D)????
 
Why are these trucks/engines so sensitive to ground issues or is it just diesel engines in general (still learning:D)????

All new vehicles are ground loop dependent now, sensors that "talk" to the computer are now volt/current/resistance inputs dirty grounds change the "cleanliness" of inputs, or excessive draw on large devices like glows, starters, headlights, blower motors, pull down overall voltage and chain effect happens to rest of the sub systems, used to be a vehicle (dumb ones) had the gnd between engine and battery and not much else, now 10 or more gnds on a vehicle that are just about independent functionally from the main ground between battery and block, and one minor gnd connection can shut down or retard operation of a vehicle, for example, 6.5 lift pump gnd on grame rail in a truck will prevent the lift pump from running even if all other gnds are clean & functional.
 
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