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Saying hi and needing help!

M

maximsafety

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Greetings all, I just joined and I see there is a ton of knowledge out there. I am hoping someone can help me with my problem. I've got a 1995 Silverado 6.5 TD 3500 dually, when I bought the truck the previous owner had installed a glowplug overide system and it worked fine until recently. The system is now giving me short run times as the stock configuration, I repalced the bypass relay and the system worked again as designed within one week it stopped working again! Replaced relay again, work fine, this time days later failure! What the heck am I missing! Also replaced the glow plug controler, glow plugs. The fuses are good, grounds and connections are good. Any advice would be appreciated!:mad2:

1995 Silverado 4X4 one ton dually Marine injectors, turbo boost controller, 4" exhaust, cold air intake, #9 resistor, Heath HPT chip, and much much more:smile5:
 
maximsafety welcome to DTR. I personally cant help you with your problems but I can assure you are on the right site for an answer to all your questions. We have the BEST 6.5 guys right here to help you.....
 
Welcome to the Site, and like Bill said, we got the BEST 6.5 Guys on the 'Net here, so they'll get you Running Right in no time! :)
 
So tell us more about your glow plug overide system. I gather from your dicscription that it's not a manual override. Off the top of my head I'd say it sounds like the relay isn't heavy duty enough to handle your load. Give us as much detail of system as possible.
 
Welcome :)



glad to see our members are already working on it...

maybe open a thread up in the 6.5 section using the standard troubleshooting form there for even more help...:thumbsup:
 
Thank you all for the quick response wow I found a home! ak diesel driver you are correct it is not a manual overide system, it is tied directly into the ignition system i.e. key on, system functioning. Everything on The override system is set up like just like a manual override with the exception of a momentary button being subsituted for the ignition switch.
I also failed to mention the last time the system failed I tapped the relay, got it to run a prolonged cycle (10+ sec) and the rig fired right up nice and clean, within 5 min started smelling something burning it was the relay and it was super hot! This relay was purchased from my local ap store and was for a 1979/80 dual battery starting system ford F series. Could this be the problem?? If so what do I need to get a 100 amp relay? Thanks again all of you for the fast response!

1995 Silverado 4X4 one ton dually, Marine injectors, turbo boost controller, 4" exhaust, cold air intake, #9 resistor, Heath HPT chip, Duramax fan w/HD fan clutch, 130 gpm water pump w/180 thermostat, Mag-Hytec trans & diff pans, pyrometer, trans temp & boost gauge (running 14 psi max boost). Pullin a 98 Alfa Ideal w/two slides (10,000 +lbs.) and the beast does'nt complain!
 
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I believe I've read that most of the guys that are using relays are using the old ford starter relays and I believe most of those were rated at 100 amps. You can also get those relays with silver contacts if your having a problem with it sticking check with a good auto electric shop.
 
I am not sure but you are located at the SF bay area. It is not that really cold there, I don't think you need a GP override. Unless you leave somewhere where the temperature can go below 0F. The stock GP system should be sufficient.

What GP you used? Some GP may not withstand the extended glow. You need ACDelco 60G or better yet Bosch Duraterm GP. With the Bosch, even people in CT can do without an override.

You can try to remove the ovrerride first to see if you have problem with the GP system.
 
I dont understand, you arent using the override, but a part of the override is causing the issue?

How is this wired? Does it always go through the relay even when not using the override?

How does a relay on a momentary switch burn up for 5 min? It must not be wired correctly. Just take it out. Sounds like its on all the time, somebody must have put the IGN power straight to it (contact 85/86 of normal relay), instead of IGN power to the switch and then to the relay trigger. OR the power to the GPs was put on the wrong relay contact that is for the normally untriggerd pass through position, which is 87A of a normal relay compared to the 87 contact.
 
Coolant Temp Sensor might be bad.

Try the CTS disconnect.....You'll get max glow time from PCM/ECM.

Still not clear about the GP override....You might want to disconnect that if you can.
 
Take a hair dryer and blow it into the intake for 5 minutes, then put the tube back on and try to start it to see if it starts right up. Should help narrow down whether your problem is glows/heat or not.
 
Thanks guys, all of these are good areas to focus on. I am using the Bosch Duraterm GP's from Heath Diesel. The temps in the SF Bay area in some areas can get into the teens but never below zero. I'm gonna check the coolant temp sensor (never thought of that!). Question, if the coolant temp sensor is bad does this mean I am geeting incorrect readings on my temp gauge?
I talked to Bill Heath over at Heath Diesel and he said the same thing buddy & Brooklyn Tow have suggested, just get rid of the override system completly. The stock system should be enough for a clean start. Never heard of the hair dryer trick Matt, I am gonna try that as well to see if this will narrow it down. Buddy I really can't tell how the previous owner wired this system up, so after much thought and head banging I'm gonna pull all of this stuff out and start with the suggested trouble shooting. I'm currently working nights so it will take me a while to go through this process, I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the input and advice it is obvious you guys really know these great 6.5's

1995 Silverado 4X4 one ton dually, Marine injectors, turbo boost controller, 4" exhaust, cold air intake, #9 resistor, Heath HPT chip, Duramax fan w/HD fan clutch, 130 gpm water pump w/180 thermostat, Mag-Hytec trans & diff pans, pyrometer, trans temp & boost gauge (running 14 psi max boost). Pullin a 98 Alfa Ideal w/two slides (10,000 +lbs.) and the beast does'nt complain!
 
The temp sensor is on the coolant crossover. The temp sender for the gauge is on the driver side head behind the p/s pump. Welcome aboard.
 
The coolant temp sensor they mentioned is in the coolant cross over. The gauge sender is in the drivers head. I also agree you wouldn't need an over ride at those temps.

Leo
 
Just to agree with the 'no overide' posts, My truck started easy on 7 cylinders, outside temp 8 degrees, vehicle left unplugged overnight. IT was left at a garage that couldn't fix it, and I had to get it outta there so i could fix it myself. Fired right up. Covered a square mile in white smoke, but started easy.
 
LOL):h, Thanks for the words of encouragement! I should have told everyone my rig does start and I assume easy (not knowing how other 6.5's start), there is just a lot of white and black smoke for the first few seconds when bone cold, but still smooth. It could sit for five to six hours after driving and I will start perfectly clean. My smoking up of the neighborhood only happens on that first morning start. I guess I should have been asking is that normal?:confused:
 
maximsafety said:
LOL):h, Thanks for the words of encouragement! I should have told everyone my rig does start and I assume easy (not knowing how other 6.5's start), there is just a lot of white and black smoke for the first few seconds when bone cold, but still smooth. It could sit for five to six hours after driving and I will start perfectly clean. My smoking up of the neighborhood only happens on that first morning start. I guess I should have been asking is that normal?:confused:
Click to expand...

That is a sign of your injectors bleedin out raw fuel into the cylinders overnight. How many miles on your injectors? They should be replaced every 100k is general rule of thumb. Cylinder leak down is a sign of them getting tired, and that diesel fuel washes away any lube on a dry start already. Also horror stories of 'ring grab' of the piston ring grabbing the dry cylinder wall and taking life off of it, if not taking it off.
 
Welcome aboard! I see a lot of members :grouphug: have already added some good responses and I can't think of anything else except one FYI - the glow plug circuit draws 55 amps per bank - 110 amps total!.....according to my chilton manual anyway.
 
Thanks Matt & Odlaw, the injectors have less the five hundred mile on them, and I think the glow plug controler was fried when the strangely wired glow plug override system overheated (everything got really hot). The reason I think the controler has failed is intermittent function, it works sometimes when I turn on the ignition switch (wait to start light on dash on for 3 to 4 sec cold or warm), then there are times I turn on the ignition switch and I get nothing at all (no wait to start light on dash when cold or warm). I can turn the ignition switch on/off once or twice and system works (still only 3 to 4 sec but it worked).
Before all this started I was getting 8 to 10 sec glow plug run cycle when cold, and 3 to 4 sec when warm. I also checked the CTS and no change. My game plan at this point is to remove all of the glow plug override stuff, install a new glow plug controller (from Walt/SSdieselsupply) and see what happens. What do you guys think??:confused: Oh by the way, I can still tap on the glow plug override relay and get 8 to 10 sec glow plug cycle warm or cold and this results in a completly clean start!!:eek:
 
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