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S.O.S my 6.5 won't start in Belgium

Service Engine Soon light does not turn on with key in video. So we have a bad or no power to: CPU = central processing unit, or otherwise known as, ECU, which is Electronic Control Unit. Does the emissions computer have a symbol or other wording in BELGIQUE? Check the lights that come on with the key and compare it to the running suburban - is there a light missing at key on engine off?

Start checking fuses and check for a code specific to bad Service Engine Soon bulb.

Cranking speed is low. Clicking sounds like glow plugs controller or starter solenoid disengaging from low voltage or dead batteries.

Glow Plugs do not appear to have enough glow time given by the computer. In other words they are not getting hot enough. Likely due to a computer failure described above of no SES light.
 
WarWagon said:
Service Engine Soon light does not turn on with key in video. So we have a bad or no power to: CPU = central processing unit, or otherwise known as, ECU, which is Electronic Control Unit. Does the emissions computer have a symbol or other wording in BELGIQUE? Check the lights that come on with the key and compare it to the running suburban - is there a light missing at key on engine off?

Start checking fuses and check for a code specific to bad Service Engine Soon bulb.

Cranking speed is low. Clicking sounds like glow plugs controller or starter solenoid disengaging from low voltage or dead batteries.

Glow Plugs do not appear to have enough glow time given by the computer. In other words they are not getting hot enough. Likely due to a computer failure described above of no SES light.
Click to expand...

Ok i'm going to check all fuse
so when i turn keys SES must light?
 
chrissuburban said:
Ok i'm going to check all fuse
so when i turn keys SES must light?
Click to expand...

Could be a bulb failure. Could look like an engine symbol in your country. What does it look like on the other Suburban? This light indicates the computer has power and is mostly working. Even with slow cranking you should have fuel at the injectors.

How did the batteries turn out from testing?
 
WarWagon said:
Could be a bulb failure. Could look like an engine symbol in your country. What does it look like on the other Suburban? This light indicates the computer has power and is mostly working. Even with slow cranking you should have fuel at the injectors.

How did the batteries turn out from testing?
Click to expand...

hi,
for batteries it's a littel low but a make to start the gmc sierra's friends he start
my cable's batteries is ok
and for fuel at injector alaws nothing yet fuel arrieved in IP

for the engine symbole on my first video it's there (the day of the blackout) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z80xaEmqlK8
but the second other video isn't not but i think because I disassembled the collector and PMD to access to the injection pump.
what do you think it's possible?
 
WarWagon said:
Could be a bulb failure. Could look like an engine symbol in your country. What does it look like on the other Suburban? This light indicates the computer has power and is mostly working. Even with slow cranking you should have fuel at the injectors.

How did the batteries turn out from testing?
Click to expand...

How do you open the 2 other bolts for remove IP because the first it's easy but the other two ...
how you turn central axe?
 
Burning oil said:
Not sure I understand? Are you removing the injection Pump? What is "axe?
Click to expand...

Chris, do you mean axis, or access?

Axis: the center point around which an object rotates, like a wheel rotates on the axle.

Or, access: A means of approaching, entering, exiting, communicating with, or making use of, such as in being able to get a wrench on the lower bolts of the IP (which can be very difficult to access).

I hope this will help you to help us understand your question. English can be difficult with so many words that sound similar but have totally different meanings.

Are you trying to remove the IP, or just loosen the IP bolts so timing can be adjusted?

Don
 
handcannon said:
Chris, do you mean axis, or access?

Axis: the center point around which an object rotates, like a wheel rotates on the axle.

Or, access: A means of approaching, entering, exiting, communicating with, or making use of, such as in being able to get a wrench on the lower bolts of the IP (which can be very difficult to access).

I hope this will help you to help us understand your question. English can be difficult with so many words that sound similar but have totally different meanings.

Are you trying to remove the IP, or just loosen the IP bolts so timing can be adjusted?

Don
Click to expand...

i'm very sorry
i try a orther word; i would like to sayd "the crank rotating"
when you see in oil feller nek you have 3 bolts and i opened the firs but i' want to know how can-i turn "axis" for open the 2 other.
 
chrissuburban said:
i'm very sorry
i try a orther word; i would like to sayd "the crank rotating"
when you see in oil feller nek you have 3 bolts and i opened the firs but i' want to know how can-i turn "axis" for open the 2 other.
Click to expand...

I don't think your IP is the problem, But to remove the other two bolt you need to rotate the crank shaft/engine. Use a socket on the harmonic balancer to rotate the crank this obviously will rotate the cam and timing gears to. Have a friend tell you when the next bolt lines up in the filler neck hole. I use an inspection mirror when I am by myself.

With that said I dont think you IP is the problem yet and would continue trying to find out why it cranks so slow.
One thing you can do it remove the glow plugs and try to turn it over again and see if that help the speed or have the starter tested/installe a new one. You need to find this out first before messing with IP

Leroy
 
Chris,

have you check your CPS (crankshaft position sensor) ? Can you access a scanner/reader and read the DTCs? (Diagnostic troubleshooting codes)
From what I saw on your videos, the starter is cranking too slow, your PMD is fried (or will very soon, especially you're coming to summer in Europe)
I didn't hear the FSO solenoid clicking.
Ground from IP harness must stay bolted on top of IP, PMD must be bolted to a proper heatsync, not just tighten by plastic fasteners
Once fixed relocate your PMD outside bay engine. Contact Leroy at PMDCABLE.com, he will sell you all you need for that.

In french ;) :

Chris, as-tu controlé ton CPS (capteur de position du vilebrequin)? Peux-tu disposer d'un scanner/lecteur pour lire les DTCs (codes d'erreur)
De ce que j'ai pu voir sur les vidéos, le démarreur tourne trop lentement, le PMD est cuit (ou le sera bientôt, particuliérement alors que vous entrez en été en Europe)
Je n'ai pas entendu le FSO solenoide cliquer.
La masse du faisceau du PMD doit rester fixée sur la pompe à injection, le PMD doit être fixé avec des vis sur un radiateur correct, pas simplement tenu par des colliers en plastique.
Une fois réparé, déplace ton PMD en dehors du compartiment moteur. Contact Leroy à PMDCABLE.com, il te vendra l'équipement nécessaire.
 
Last edited:
Seriously before you start removing things get it cranking faster, as already suggested yours sounds like a weak starter motor. My guess is that she obviously cranked slow before you had the no start and therefore you are summising that this is not the issue, but no matter there is nothing more frustrating then trying to diagnose a non starting diesel that is lazy on the crank speed.

Cheers
Nobby
 
matuva said:
Chris,

have you check your CPS (crankshaft position sensor) ? Can you access a scanner/reader and read the DTCs? (Diagnostic troubleshooting codes)
From what I saw on your videos, the starter is cranking too slow, your PMD is fried (or will very soon, especially you're coming to summer in Europe)
I didn't hear the FSO solenoid clicking.
Ground from IP harness must stay bolted on top of IP, PMD must be bolted to a proper heatsync, not just tighten by plastic fasteners
Once fixed relocate your PMD outside bay engine. Contact Leroy at PMDCABLE.com, he will sell you all you need for that.

In french ;) :

Chris, as-tu controlé ton CPS (capteur de position du vilebrequin)? Peux-tu disposer d'un scanner/lecteur pour lire les DTCs (codes d'erreur)
De ce que j'ai pu voir sur les vidéos, le démarreur tourne trop lentement, le PMD est cuit (ou le sera bientôt, particuliérement alors que vous entrez en été en Europe)
Je n'ai pas entendu le FSO solenoide cliquer.
La masse du faisceau du PMD doit rester fixée sur la pompe à injection, le PMD doit être fixé avec des vis sur un radiateur correct, pas simplement tenu par des colliers en plastique.
Une fois réparé, déplace ton PMD en dehors du compartiment moteur. Contact Leroy à PMDCABLE.com, il te vendra l'équipement nécessaire.
Click to expand...

Thanks Alain, and I like how my name sounds in French :D
 
Burning oil said:
I don't think your IP is the problem, But to remove the other two bolt you need to rotate the crank shaft/engine. Use a socket on the harmonic balancer to rotate the crank this obviously will rotate the cam and timing gears to. Have a friend tell you when the next bolt lines up in the filler neck hole. I use an inspection mirror when I am by myself.

With that said I dont think you IP is the problem yet and would continue trying to find out why it cranks so slow.
One thing you can do it remove the glow plugs and try to turn it over again and see if that help the speed or have the starter tested/installe a new one. You need to find this out first before messing with IP

Leroy
Click to expand...

Matuva as raison my FSO not klick ,can-i repair this?
 
nobby said:
Seriously before you start removing things get it cranking faster, as already suggested yours sounds like a weak starter motor. My guess is that she obviously cranked slow before you had the no start and therefore you are summising that this is not the issue, but no matter there is nothing more frustrating then trying to diagnose a non starting diesel that is lazy on the crank speed.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

What you advice me
 
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