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S.O.S my 6.5 won't start in Belgium

chrissuburban

chrissuburban

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Location
BELGIQUE ,1460 ITTRE
hi,
first sorry for my english
my truck is a 6.5 TD CHEVY suburban LT K1500 de 1997 there's 215.320 KM
I use only station fuel,i make alway servicing on time.
I need your help because my truck stop directly on the way
-the lift pump is ready
-i by 2 new battery next week but not changement
-i verified all fuse it's all ok
-the PMD is new i use 2 week ago
-i make my truck's video on you tube ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8JH7-7KdrM
-today i opened my IP i remved the cover of optosensor it's full of fuel but when i oppened one injector line and crank the engine not fuel com out.

I want to know if I should change my injection pump or just my optical sensor :mad2:

Let me know please. again sorry for english
 
Service Engine Soon Light on with key? Verifies Computer is "on".
Any codes in the computer?

Have your old PMD to try? New parts do not mean the problem is fixed.

Clean grounds. Check positive battery cables for corrosion.

Edit after seeing video:

100 RPM minimum is needed to start the 6.5. You are not getting 100 RPM! Tighten the battery cables after slapping them on!!! Loose connections there burn and cause high resistance. Dead batteries?

No service engine soon light seen on the dash. Bad bulb or computer not getting power.
Glow Plug cycle time is not correct. - May be from computer issue.

Suspect ground by the trans dipstick needs cleaned.
 
WarWagon said:
Service Engine Soon Light on with key? Verifies Computer is "on".
Any codes in the computer?

Have your old PMD to try? New parts do not mean the problem is fixed.

Clean grounds. Check positive battery cables for corrosion.

How bad are the batteries? 100 RPM minimum is needed to start the 6.5.
Click to expand...

the 2 batteries cables ase clean
i try to put ahoter car whits cable
i tell you what
for you it is too early to say this is the pump
 
Edited post above...
Need to tighten cables when you put them on.
No SES light - Computer power failure or computer (PCM) bad.
RPM too low to start engine - loose battery cables or dead batteries.
Glow plug controller not staying on long enough. - Computer related likely.

All point to bad ground by trans oil dipstick on engine. Possible failed computer as well.

You must have a Service engine soon light on when you turn they key on or no fuel will be told to be delivered by the "off" computer.
 
First. I hate imageshack always get some kind of pop up with them.
Second. did you guys see this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z80xaEmqlK8&NR=1 Looks like you could have internal engine problems with the way the oil cap wants to blow off the neck.
Third. you can not mount your PMD like that it will fry in minutes sometimes like that. Its not on a heat sink or even bolted down. You need to fix that soon. I would get a new one mount it on a heat sink outside engine bay. Before you spend any money on it though lets keep tring to figure out why it won't turn over fast enough.
You could have a bad starter, bad/low batteries.

Welcome to TTS forums

Leroy
 
As already said, too slow on the crank speed for a start. New starter if all connections are good, have cranking at correct speed before you go nuts chasing dead end solutions.

Also you are using the Wait to Start light wrong (glowplug light). You start cranking when the indicator stops being solidly on, not after it stops flashing. The flashing part is afterglow for once it has in theory started.

Yep change that PMD mount to a heatsink.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Gauges going crazy indicate a bad ground or low voltage. Charge the battries and then torque the posts down before another attempt. Check the grounds especially the ground by the trans oil dipstick on the passenger side rear of the engine.

Leroy said something that suggest you check the oil level and coolant levels. Possible blown head gasket causing slow cranking?
 
Hi guys ... I've been talking to Chris in Belgium via PM, and asked him if I could post those here so you guys could help out (since most all of you are smarter than me! :D)

First, the checklist:

CHRISSUBURBAN’S TRUCK
MY TRUCK ; 1997 CHEVY SUBURBAN LT K1500 6.5 TD WITH 215.320 KM
THE PMD IS NEW
THE LIFT PUMP IS READY
THE 2 BATTERY IS NEW

Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire)._the engine turns but not start
_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e_FTmzDbBc

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: _1997
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) __K1500
- Automatic or Standard _AUTOMATIC
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) ___215320
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) __PMD
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? __turbo diesel
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) _20 C
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) 1 diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? 0
- Where are you located? _BELGIUM

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter __215320
- Fuel filter _215320
- CDR Valve? _________
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at _215320
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at NEW 15-04-2011
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): YES
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? 25000 KM_What type? ___
- Injectors - last changed at ______


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? ON WAY_
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? VERY GOOD
- Has this problem ever happened before? NEVER
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. pmd and I.P
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) __NO__ And?


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? NO
1b] Does the engine crank over? _yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? _they are new
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? _yes
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? _5 second_
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _yes_ For how long? _5 second_
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? no____
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? ________

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? _yes_
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _yes
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? _yes
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _no__
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? _yes_

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) _remote mounted
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? _vendor_
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _all ok__
3d] PMD Make: ___________
3e] PMD Age: _1 week_

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? _no___________
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) _no
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? _no_
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________
5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? _no_________
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? _no________
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __________

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? ___________
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? _no_
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? _no_
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? ______________

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? ____________
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? _NO
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? _NO
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? _NO
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? _YES_
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? _NO__________

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

HI ,
First sorry for my englis
my truck is a 6.5 TD CHEVY suburban LT K1500 de 1997 there's 215.320 KM
I leave in belgium
I use only station fuel,i make alway servicing on time.
I need your help because my truck stop directly on the way
-the lift pump is ready
-i by 2 new battery next week but not changement
-i verified all fuse it's all ok
-the PMD is new i use 2 week ago
-i make my truck's video on you tube ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8JH7-7KdrM
-today i opened my IP i remved the cover of optosensor it's full of fuel but when i oppened one injector line and crank the engine not fuel com out.

I want to know if I should change my injection pump or just my optical sensor

Let me know please. again sorry for english
 
My response:

Hi Chris - I assume your suburban was running OK and then it just died? Have you any way to get the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) from it? You'll need a code-reader to do that.

There are lots of things that could cause this. Here are some of the easy ones:

1) Check to make sure that fuel is being pumped to the IP. If you remove the inlet hose and put it into a bottle, then have somebody turn on the key (put truck in drive to prevent starter, turn key to start), fuel should pump into the bottle.

2) Check to see if fuel shut-off Solenoid (FSO - tall cylinder sticking up on IP) is working. Should 'click' when key turned on/off.

3) If you have fuel at IP, check to see if PMD is working; Where is it mounted? Check connections carefully.

4) Check ECM-B fuse in under-hood fusebox.

Changing Optosensor on the road is difficult, but doable.
 
Well for starters,,that PMD is gonna fry if it's not allready fried on that rusty iron plate.PMD is highly suspect.
Secondly he needs to crank right after the first glow cycle or Key off/on again for longer glow.Waiting for the full glow cycle to end leaves him with cooler plugs and a non running LP
thirdly IMO it turning over to slow.He says cables are good so a batt amp test is in order or he's got a weak starter.

I don't hear a clank(could just be me?)
First 2 vids wouldn,t load for me
 
97 yr, lift pump should run with ign. on.

The engine turns over too slow to start. Could be bad starter, cables or connections.

PMD needs to be on an aluminum heat sink, it could already be bad.

The Clanking noise could be an accessory or valve train related. I would remove the belt to see if the noise goes away.
 
97 LP runs only while in glow mode,when glow cycle ends the LP stops running.
At least thats how it works on my 98.
IMO the OPS performs still the same function as on the older models.
 
bison said:
97 LP runs only while in glow mode,when glow cycle ends the LP stops running.
At least thats how it works on my 98.
IMO the OPS performs still the same function as on the older models.
Click to expand...

That's correct, it would give some time to check for fuel during the first glow cycle.
 
And the LP should run regardless if the shifter is put in drive and the key turned to the start position, I think?
 
I agree, the PMD may already fried in that rusty steel. PMD by itself generates heat. If you drove it like that for 2 weeks, there is no way the heat is dissipated plus the engine heat.

I also saw the ground that needs to be attach to the IP. PMD is similar to the CPU in a worst environment than a computer case.

This is unfortunate, though. A lot of people did it like this without knowing what they are doing.
 
I try to start whith "start pilot" my engine start 2seconds
tomorow i'll test the cable's batteries
i try PMD on a other suburban it's ok
i drained the pump from diesel IP and when i turn keys "on" it fills but i open an injector line i crank the engine but not diesel exit.
the lift pump is ok
THE new PMD as 0 km i not drive whith it.
I have yet to ride with the new PMD but I will follow your advice and remove it on a heat sink aluminum

excuse me but but I do not understand CPU and OEM
can try to explain me in french or easy english
 
chrissuburban said:
excuse me but but I do not understand CPU and OEM
can try to explain me in french or easy english
Click to expand...

CPU = central processing unit, or otherwise known as, ECU, which is Electronic Control Unit.
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer
PMD = Pump Mounted Driver, otherwise known as FSD - Fuel Solenoid Driver
 
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