RV with 6.5 Diesel Turbo

[Sidsincere]

I’m one of those guys who doesn’t know a lot about diesel engines & my brain may be getting too old to learn a lot of new stuff. I’ll do my best to learn & understand what I pick up from those of you who offer advice backed by your knowledge & experience.

In 2019 my wife & I bought a well-used Safari Trek Diesel Pathmaker motorhome. It is built on a 1996 Chevrolet P30 chassis. With the exception of fuel filter & oil changes, I’ve been at the mercy of mechanic shops for work on the engine & drive train. To make this lifestyle sustainable, I’m going to try to do more mechanical work myself. Otherwise it may all become a chapter in the past.

My wife & I have traveled to a few destinations & gone on a few camping trips in our Trek motorhome. We travel with our family of pets we fondly call our monsters. The Monster Family includes 3 dogs, 1 mini pig & a turtle. We have started a fb page called Trekking with the Monster Family, but don’t rush over there because there isn’t much on it yet.

Thanks for adding me.

 

[Will L.]

Welcome.
Please fill out the signature line with year make model and any modifications you know of or as you make them. This will have them pop up automatically each post and helps with knowing what details are as time goes on.

Please post pictures of the engine, specifically the injection pump on the top front of the engine, the water pump, and the turbo, and the oil cooler hoses. This all helps because in regular trucks we know these differences by year but in RV they can vary greatly.

Gonna go a little “chicken little” here but best to be cautious and catch things ahead of time.
There is some things that are known engine killers. Oil cooler hose failure, harmonic balancer failure, overheating.

There are things to modify from stock that take some investment but pay off long term. Before buying parts- ask because there is a ton of rip off places or gadgets out there that we can stop you from making the errors folks here have made.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Adding to Will's Chicken Little thoughts, might consider stocking-up on known consumables as some new parts are into the rarity territory if wanting to get reliable new parts. And some new parts are into the rarity territory and heading to unobtanium (if not already there). One example is new fuel injectors.

Having backup plans for when something breaks is a worthwhile effort.

 

[WarWagon]

Otherwise it may all become a chapter in the past.

RVing is enough work and problems as it is. You have picked about the worst "disposable" Light Duty diesel engine out there. To add insult to injury: the Asthma Attack turbo GM ignorantly slapped on the engine gives you the fuel economy of a 454 gas engine working that hard. This engine and turbo didn't belong an anything over a 1/2 ton.

Before you give up on an RV, frankly get a better RV with a different engine! Esp. if you need to use a mechanic. Different configurations like a travel trailer and tow vehicle... Anything But This Engine.

Another member "Went Nuts" on building the best 6.5TD money could buy for his RV, Ruined Vacation. He fixed all the 6.5TD design problems GM turned loose on their "former" customers. It ended when it burned to the ground.

6.5L TD Motorhome repair/repower

Well here we go. It's been almost a year 6/17/13, that my motorhome let me done and I broke my leg 2/23/13. Now, my leg has healed and I'm finally getting to the motorhome repair. Here's the thread, for those that don't know or don't remember...

www.thetruckstop.us

Goodness, gracious 3bals RV a-fire!

Breaking sad news. Just received a message from Jody @3bals as to why he didn't make it into Lincoln yesterday evening on he and his wife's vacation. At MM74 on I-80 in Iowa yesterday afternoon there was a fire in the engine compartment of his P-30 chassis-based motorhome that quickly spread...

www.thetruckstop.us

Yeah some things you can $$$$ do as the links above show you, but, it's likely a Black Hole still worth the same when you sell it.

First thing you should do is put a better turbo on it. That way I won't be such a blur going by you with my 5er when you attempt to take it up the grades going to say the Mogollon Rim. There is an oily patch on the way where we blew up a 6.5TD. Don't mistake it for the other patches where others say blew up 6.5TD's like a used Suburban I got that they abandoned like they were going to die from all the smoke when the engine lost #8 and dumped coolant in hot oil...

 

[Will L.]

Yeah, if you try to drive it like a newer rv, its doomed. If you don’t mind cruising a little slower and making changes to keep the heat under control- 200 is ok, 210 watch the gauge more than the road, 220 pull over now and let it idle back down- then things last longer. Going to the 180° block off thermostat to begin with helps.
Balanced flow waterpump, and AKdd’s electroviscous fan clutch set up is great starting points. Never being afraid to invest in HUGE COPPER radiator and having it thermal ceramic coated is a win.
Yes as he mentioned above a big boy turbo like an hx40 for you is smart and 4”-5” exhaust all the way out helps. Ya might go through added expense of thermal wrapping because it helps not just heat control but quiets it down a touch. That larger turbo & exhaust will pay for itself in fuel if you are doing any descent mileage. Speaking of which- what is your current mpg?


How many biden billions do we have to spend on this anyways? Haha-
Seriously- knowing all you have and where $ comes in to do best bang for the buck first helps.

 

[Sidsincere]

Uh

Yeah, if you try to drive it like a newer rv, its doomed. If you don’t mind cruising a little slower and making changes to keep the heat under control- 200 is ok, 210 watch the gauge more than the road, 220 pull over now and let it idle back down- then things last longer. Going to the 180° block off thermostat to begin with helps.
Balanced flow waterpump, and AKdd’s electroviscous fan clutch set up is great starting points. Never being afraid to invest in HUGE COPPER radiator and having it thermal ceramic coated is a win.
Yes as he mentioned above a big boy turbo like an hx40 for you is smart and 4”-5” exhaust all the way out helps. Ya might go through added expense of thermal wrapping because it helps not just heat control but quiets it down a touch. That larger turbo & exhaust will pay for itself in fuel if you are doing any descent mileage. Speaking of which- what is your current mpg?


How many biden billions do we have to spend on this anyways? Haha-
Seriously- knowing all you have and where $ comes in to do best bang for the buck first helps.

I’m an American… I don’t meet the qualifications to receive any Biden Billions…

 

[Will L.]

So just like the rest of us-biden our time until Nov 5.

 

[jrsavoie]

Uh

I’m an American… I don’t meet the qualifications to receive any Biden Billions…

Have you thought about sneaking across the border and asking for asylum?

 

[dbrannon79]

Have you thought about sneaking across the border and asking for asylum?

I think our northern neighbors would be the best place to be, that is if they'd have us LOL.

Welcome to the forum @Sidsincere That is a good looking RV you have there. being a 1996 model, chances are you have the newer electronic injection pump. there are a few things you will want to do like remote mounting the PMD out away from the engine heat along with doing anything you can to keep the engine running cool. these engines don't like heat. at 210 deg you need to be watching the gauge more than the road, 220 time to pull over and let her cool. the #8 cylinder will always be hotter than the rest of the block and can cause all kinds of self destruct issues.

all things aside, keeping it well maintained and slow and steady it should last you a long time to come. when the day comes and the engine finally fails. Then it will be time for a aftermarket trans controller and a 454 gasser swap, but until then enjoy it

 

[JayTheCPA]

Fun fact. There is a port, in the head, above the #8 cylinder, which has a screw-in plug holding in coolant. Removing this plug and installing a coolant temperature sending unit is a great way to add a second coolant gauge for watching the engine's hottest location.