Running out of things to change

[swany211501]

I've got my rig here that doesn't want to start right away.

Quite a few cranks before it even thinks of firing.

So far I've changed the glow plugs to Bosch, new lift pump, I just finished building brand new battery cables out of 2 gauge wire and 2/0 to the starter soldered shrinked and tightened.

I've done the battery mod with 1 1/2 bolts.

I also finally put the pmd out behind the bumper through the license plate bolt hole. Even changed the pmd to the one I got with the kit because the one on the truck is a dtech and it was quite warm when I pulled it off the manifold.

3 hours in the company shop, under radiant heat and the truck still hesitated when I cranked it.

Decent crank speed but just not firing right away. What the heck now? Who's got an idea for me?

Thanks

 

[ak diesel driver]

put a piece of clear tubing on the return line coming out of the IP and look for air bubbles while running. sounds like it bleeding back and leaving air. just leave the clear tubing in place it will be an easy check from then on

 

[bison]

my vote as well,it looks like you're losing prime.

Is that problem only at first start in the morning?
How does it start during the day?

 

[JMJNet]

Glad you make it here. Hopefully, the member here can guide you better.

 

[Turbine Doc]

I've got my rig here that doesn't want to start right away.

Quite a few cranks before it even thinks of firing.

So far I've changed the glow plugs to Bosch, new lift pump, I just finished building brand new battery cables out of 2 gauge wire and 2/0 to the starter soldered shrinked and tightened.

I've done the battery mod with 1 1/2 bolts.

I also finally put the pmd out behind the bumper through the license plate bolt hole. Even changed the pmd to the one I got with the kit because the one on the truck is a dtech and it was quite warm when I pulled it off the manifold.

3 hours in the company shop, under radiant heat and the truck still hesitated when I cranked it.

Decent crank speed but just not firing right away. What the heck now? Who's got an idea for me?

Thanks

Glows but I don't see glow controller in this list, what voltage are you getting at the glows when cranking ? I had a bad glow controller once relay worked but did not send any trons to the plugs themselves

 

[Turbine Doc]

Also as others have stated could be air, you'll need to check the rubber & the steel lines for small cracks, what pressure are you getting from the lift pump when you prime check ?

Have a read through of this from our TRL http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...t-Pumps-amp-OPS-operation-and-troubleshooting

Oh where are my manners

Welcome To The Site :welcome5:

 

[swany211501]

It's all good brother! I read the troubleshooting guide a bit before you suggested it. I'm going to get a pressure gauge to check these things out. It's wicked cold here right now, like -5F and I can't get it indoors right now. So I'll be doing this in a few days. What about the voltage at the GP's, is there a voltage drop across the controller? What about signs of a weak controller? As for the fuel lines, they're just as pooched as the oil cooler lines. The joy of owning a 15 year old truck.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Some volt drop if you have battery or gnd issues but volt should be pretty close to 11-12v at individual glows, 12V at controller itself before the glow resistive load is in play.

Common "bad" hose is the one out of the FM that runs under intake to the IP start with that one 1st, replace spring "dammit" (dammit I hate these clamps) clamps with worm screw clamps as when the rubber hose gets hard with age spring clamps no longer tension properly and you leak fuel or suck in air.

Use the old hose to snake in a piece of nylon cord attached to one of the ends; pull cord under the intake as you remove the old hose, then the cord can be used to pull the new hose under the intake. You want to use hose rated for Diesel fuel, gasoline rated will work for a while but doesn't last like Diesel rated hose.

 

[Tookie]

If the controller is working, and glows are working, headlights should dim considerably while they are in the heat cycle.
Not a real precise test, but I replaced 2 controllers while I had the '97, my test was right both times!
Also, if the controller is not working, you can jump the terminals, just like
on an old Ford starter solenoid

 

[Turbine Doc]

If the parking brake isn't on & if you are a DTRL vintage truck , for extra juice between glow cycles I set parking brake so I'm not drawing that down between cranks of the starter with the day time run coming on & off.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Try unplugging the CTS to give PCM Max glow time prior to start (makes puter think its -40 out)

Removing intake hose and blowing hot air via heat gun, or hair dryer for a few minutes (longer betteR) to pre-heat the intake to aid in cold starting to see if conditions change.

Any major smoke happening?

 

[swany211501]

I didn't find a pressure gauge at Princess Auto so I'll have to wait a few days. I do have the driving lights, and they dim quite a bit in cycle. This morning -34C with wind, fired again, third try. Just seems like it is a fuel problem. Average puff of grey and as quick as it came it went away. Bled the T valve while it was running. No water, a huge fricken steady stream of diesel though. Got it on my pajama pants lol! Anyways, until I get a pressure gauge to check it, no command starts for me. Its also too cold to hang out under the hood today, so I'll suffer and check in a few days when I can bring it inside where its warm.

I'm going to do a remote OPS and when I do that, do the relay. I was thinking though, if its a fuel line issue would this be grounds for doing Feed the Beast at the same time?

 

[robzombie4551]

A couple of things I didn't see in the thread are, Do you plug in the heater when it's that cold, and I didn't see your answer to the ?

Is that problem only at first start in the morning?
How does it start during the day?

.

I know that if I unplug my CTS it gives me longer glow times and starts easier. Although It doesn't get as cold here.

Have you tryed double cycling the glows, cycle once then turn off ign. wait about 30 seconds and cycle again then try to start.

If it starts easier that way it's probably in the glow circuit somewhere. IAT,CTS, or something else out of range.

 

[swany211501]

Anything past -10C its plugged in. I've cycled them 2x lots. I'll let them fully cycle, wait, turn off the key, wait 10 seconds, turn it back on, cycle, then hit it. It won't fire right away, so I'll let it crank for a few, stop, turn back the key, wait, count to 10, turn it ahead and cycle, then hit it and hold it til it fires, usually a long 5-10 seconds then it catches and we're good. The GP's are new, Bosch at that. Shouldn't have to double cycle. I'm really thinking Turbine Doc hit it on the head with the air in the lines. It just seems that way. If it was cold in the combustion chamber, wouldn't it smoke dark gray/black for quite a while? Sorta like throwing a railway tie in a fire for a few seconds and moving it off?

 

[swany211501]

Oh, and I missed the question. It starts the same regardless day or night as long as it sits for a while. -25 Dec 31, went into Newfie Speed and Sport was in there 45 minutes, came out, long crank but fired first time. Probably held the start for a good 10 seconds.

 

[swany211501]

I've been doing some reading, http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?19438-Carter-Fuel-pump

This isn't the pump I have. Its a replacement, Carter albeit, but its the factory replacement inline gas job fuel filter look alike. Could it be bleeding back through the pump causing me to reprime every time? My truck does start a touch better when it has been ran. But first fire of the day it starts like a bitch! What do you guys think? I've only had this pump on the truck for a few weeks but I'll be damned if I can say whether or not if it was better or worse because all my problems started when it got cold and I started changing stuff in an attempt to get a reliable cold start.

I'm still going to check the voltages and get a pressure gauge going to see what my fuel pressure readings are and put in a clear line. I just read this and though could it be this simple?

 

[swany211501]

Ok, so it was considerably warmer this morning. -14C. I went out with multimeter in hand, flipped back the rubber nut covers on the GP controller. Checked the volts on the batteries first, 12.1 V both batteries. Got my girlfriend to hit the key. 11.98v on the supply side, assuming that is the side closest to the steering shaft. 11.78v on the valley side. So that seems to be in order. I pulled GP wire 1 and 3 checking for voltage at the connector. Nothing. 0.02V which I'm guessing is just the resistance of the leads. So, what do you think now fellas? I'm checking other threads while I wait for an answer.

LOL Makes me think of CrankMe's thread about bleeding!

 

[great white]

Ok, so it was considerably warmer this morning. -14C. I went out with multimeter in hand, flipped back the rubber nut covers on the GP controller. Checked the volts on the batteries first, 12.1 V both batteries. Got my girlfriend to hit the key. 11.98v on the supply side, assuming that is the side closest to the steering shaft. 11.78v on the valley side. So that seems to be in order. I pulled GP wire 1 and 3 checking for voltage at the connector. Nothing. 0.02V which I'm guessing is just the resistance of the leads. So, what do you think now fellas? I'm checking other threads while I wait for an answer.

LOL Makes me think of CrankMe's thread about bleeding!

Sounds like a glow controller to me.......

 

[swany211501]

Is there a way to make for sure that is the problem? Or did I do that with the voltage check? Suggestions where to acquire a replacement?

I'm seeing daylight at the end of the tunnel, I just hope it isn't a train!

I guess if I change it, I could change my OPS with a remote mount and do the relay all at the same time. :thumbsup:

 

[Paveltolz]

Schematic of the glow plug and controller relay circuit...perhaps this will be of help.