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Running Hot

P

pipelinetrash89

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Location
Tulsa, OK
Ok guys, after yesterdays deal with the belt I got out and decided to run around today and I noticed I was running warmer then usual. It usually runs at 180 on my guage now its around 200. If I let it idle or coast it goes to normal, or even alittle cooler. So I'm wondering if my thermostat is gone now? I noticed that my coolant tank is a lot fuller now also.
 
Ok, now I feel dumb.. I think I got it all fixed now, put the belt on THE RIGHT WAY and took her for a spin. everythings back to normal but it runs alittle warmer now just ideling around.
 
Don't feel dumb, it fits both ways, just one way the fan turns backwards... So does the water pump. I'm at the point that I check the routing diagram, make my own diagram, take a picture...

If there's a way for me to do it wrong, that's what will happen :)

The water level in your tank should return to normal as the pump works and the air gets out of the system. Keep an eye on it.
 
Well I had to walk 4 miles yesterday for a new belt, then 4 miles back. So I'm going to use that as my excuse!;) I'm curious how that Heath fan clutch is working for you? I think I'm going to order his 21" blade and clutch here soon.
 
Alright, this backwards belt install rivals my 180 CPS install. Just had to say it. There, I feel better.
 
Ok guys, finally got out an drove the truck and temps at idle are back to normal but driving down the hwy they are all over the place. One minute they'll be at 200, the next 180. Its just a back and forth dance. And my overfill tank hasn't gone down any at all. Any guesses What'd going on now? Water pump finally going bad?
 
On top of the T stat housing is an air bleed, see if any air comes out.
 
Well you don't have air in the system. The temp sender could be bad.

This list is for the sensor in the coolant crossover I believe, the values may be the same for the one in the head.


177 ohms @ 212 deg. F. or 100 deg. C.
241 ohms @ 194 deg. F. or 90 deg. C.
332 ohms @ 176 deg. F. or 80 deg. C.
467 ohms @ 158 deg. F. or 70 deg. C.
667 ohms @ 140 deg. F. or 60 deg. C.
973 ohms @ 122 deg. F. or 50 deg. C.
1188 ohms @ 113 deg. F. or45 deg. C.
1459 ohms @ 104 deg. F. or 40 deg. C.
1802 ohms @ 95 deg. F. or 35 deg. C.
2238 ohms @ 86 deg. F. or 30 deg. C.
2796 ohms @ 77 deg. F. or 25 deg. C.
3520 ohms @ 68 deg. F. or 20 deg. C.
4450 ohms @ 59 deg. F. or 15 deg. C.
5670 ohms @ 50 deg. F. or 10 deg. C.
7280 ohms @ 41 deg. F. or 5 deg. C.
9420 ohms @ 32 deg. F. or 0 deg. C.
12300 ohms @ 23 deg. F. or -5 deg. C.
16180 ohms @ 14 deg. F. or -10 deg. C.
21450 ohms @ 5 deg. F. or -15 deg. C.
28680 ohms @ -4 deg. F. or -20 deg. C.
52700 ohms @ -22 deg. F. or -30 deg. C.
100700 ohms @ -40 deg. F. or - 40 deg. C

This is the thread in the Tech. Library: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?5854-CTS-and-glows&p=67630#post67630
 
I haven't opened mine when it was hot, old style rads with the cap on them, will blow coolant all over, and burn you as well.
 
yea, been there done that when I was young and dumb :rolleyes5: I'm just hoping this truck will last me for another 6 monts to a year and I'll get my new D-max :thumbsup:
 
Update: I drove to work this morning and the truck never ran as hot as it was running before. It got to around 195 stay there for 30-45 seconds and go back down to 170 or so. It only got warm when I was stopped on a hill at a red light then as soon as I took off again it went back down to 180. So I'm assuming everythings working like it should. Also this morning while it was warming up I was feeling the radiator hose. It never got hard till it was up to around 160 on the gauge and I could still squash it easily. So I'm hoping no cracks or gaskets blown.
 
200 to 210 is not too far out of bounds, but is worrisome.

Check the Radiator fins for plugging. The best way is to remove it so you can look straight in the fins. A trip to the car wash and hot soapy water works wonders. You can wash, installed, from the back side with decent results if you remove the upper shroud.


Changing the fan engagement temperature is a real good idea. I would see peaks of just over 210 on hard loads or transporting my snow plow at highway speeds. After lowering the engagement, the fan starts to engage right after the thermostat opens. It is real rare to hit over 200, usually 195 is the highest I see. (mainly in cold weather before the truck is fully warmed up)
I went 1/8 toward the tab end on my old stock clutch.
 
It always seem nothing goes wrong until I'm off working 1,000+ miles from home :mad2: But I'm thinking about just buying a Heath 21" fan and clutch. I has always ran around 180ish and now that it's getting warmer then that, it worries me alittle. I'm going to go down to the carwash today, I washed it before I left 2 months ago. It's been snowing a lot up here and all the salt and grime on the road probably doesn't help. It's so bad it turns my green truck to a off silver :nonod:
 
Ok guys, I know VERY little about a cooling system. So I have a question, when I bought the truck it NEVER got above 180, it usually stayed around 170 or so. It took forever for it to get up to that temp also. So I was thinking that maybe that the thermostat was stuck open, and when I ran the water pump backwards that it closed it back and now it's working again??
 
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