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right rear brake biting

Pruittx2

Pruittx2

Been around a bit
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Lake Odessa, Mi
ater it rains,,, the one will bite,, on easy braking for a few miles,,, then clears up. I did the bigger wheel cylinders a year or so back,,, but think maybe the axle seal is leaking,,as the old whl cyl's were not wet at all.

So refresh me here,,,, exactly how much fun is it to do the seals on the smaller braked burbans? lol how much fluid do I need?
 
Your signature doesn't indicate 1500 or 2500 Burb, so do you have the 9.5" or 10.5" rear axle?
 
If you have the 3-1/2" wide shoe like mine, the biting went away after I upgraded the proportioning valve (per TSB) and upgraded to the larger wheel cylinders (IIRC from a 1 ton dually). Seeing as the wheel cylinders were done on yours, perhaps it is time for the correct proportioning valve?

Cannot help with the level of effort for seals and amount of fluid as I simply pay the bill to the shop . . .
 
Not bad really assuming 3/4 ton. Make sure you have room to slide the axle all the way out. On jackstands remove tire and brake drum, (some the brake drum comes off with the hub, but, I doubt you have that design.) remove 8 bolts on axle, hit it with a 10# sledge hammer like you are trying to pound it in and it will 'bounce' out. Get special tool to remove the bearing nut - Then remove snap ring like retainer and blocking key. Then remove nut. Hub comes off.

Clean bearings and hub, replace seal, and grease bearings lightly. Otherwise they are dry and will burn up before oil gets to them. The proper seals are hard to find the part number for.

Other than setting the nut by feel like you would front disc brake bearings reverse the procedure for reassembly. RTV silicone to seal the axle under the 8 bolts.
 
9.5" semi-floating axle. Similar, but not quite the same procedure as the 10.5" full-floating axle. Get yourself a Haynes manual for C/K 1500 thru 3500 pickups, has everything you need to know for drivetrain/axle repair.
 
For the 1500 9.5" axle, you have to jack it up on stands, remove the tire, remove the drum, next pull the diff cover, remove the cross shaft, then slide the axles in and the c clips will fall off or you can use a magnet to remove them. Change seal, hope theres no grooves because if there is you will be doing repair bearings and seals, then put it all back together.
 
Thanks, Ferm. Never did a 9.5", so I didn't know. Sounds pretty much like doing a BOP 10 bolt or a Chevy 12 bolt (done a few of those). Was inside my 10.5" once, that was enough!
 
Well, I'm back on this thread just for closure. My axle seals are still fine, all is dry inside.
The problem was self induced as it turns out. As I'm kinda a tight wad when I did new shoes back there, I did Not replace or have drums turned. They really did look fine, and I'm sure others As Well as me have done this without any big problems.
Turns out, that lil area that never got worn, and was rusty, on the outer edge of drum,,,once the new shoes were installed, self correct, or burned that edge off of the pads and all seemed fine.
Problem is, that when they get wet the shoe material swells ever so slightly, causing the drum to catch quickly and suddenly. After a few stops they dry up and condition goes away.
Lesson here is, either get them turned or get new Every time. Derp.
 
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