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Review: a team turbo and kojo tune

P

Plaf713

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Location
Schenectady ny
I'm sure this has been discussed over and over but I'd like to put my own 2 sense in. I have finally finished the project which also included new injectors and glow plugs.

At first I only had the turbo, injectors and glow plugs. Everything went a lot smoother then I expected, honestly I was a little nervous to do all of this by myself but it wasn't bad at all so if you think you can't do, you may want to reconsider.

As some of you know I had an issue with the number 6 injector and I took the advise of members to keep driving and it must've worked all the air bubbles out, just took a lot longer then I expected. That was pretty much the only hiccup I had with the project.

I drove about 150 miles like this, was I impressed? Yes and no. The power was there but I expected more. I thought it would be a lot more noticeable but it was an improvement to say the least. The curiosity was killing me on how it would run with the tune.

Now that takes us to today, received my kojo tune in the mail. All I can say is wow. This is exactly what I wanted out of the truck and more. I'm actually shocked that some guys say that there is a lag with the att, yes there was a little without the tune but once the tune was there it feels like instant torque, and the turbo lights way faster. I'm 100% satisfied with this kit. I would recommend to anyone looking to improve there 6.5, even if you don't tow I still think it's worth it for you.

Thanks for reading
 
I have been interested in the ATT. currently running the hx35. Do you have numbers on your egt's? How hot does the exhaust get and how fast, and what is your 0-60?
 
I do not have an egt, I only tow boats smaller then 20 foot. Until I get into something bigger I won't get one. I'll check 0-60 later and let you know
 
Another thing is that I was having a little trouble starting it even after the injectors and gps and once the tune was in it fired right up like it should
 
Just confusion as to the use of the term lag. What people really want to say: At low (below ~2000) RPM the ATT turbo isn't going to spool up. From a stop both HX40II and the ATT light off about the same RPM: Rolling is where the RPM ranges of the turbo's show up.

It is really a useable RPM range change from Low RPM (Below 2200) with the GMx to High RPM power (above 2000) with the ATT, HX40II, etc. The thing that makes the GMx feel so bad is the automatic wants and will to shift to high RPM when you need pulling power. Sadly high RPM is where the GMx chokes.

In conclusion you need to change shift points and change from lugging the engine at low RPM to winding it up to the upper RPM when going to a bigger turbo. IMO even the GM automatic needs to shift sooner via a tune for grades with a large turbo.
 
only thing ive noticed is that its actually idling pretty low, around 450 rpms once its warmed up. Not sure if other kojo guys experienced this or not
 
a couple updates, i saw about 15 psi my a hair over 15 psi at full throttle on the highway. This is just the truck, not towing anything.

The idle may actually be slightly under 400 rpms, it doesnt idle rough but just low. Im not sure if i should drive it like this. I guess ill have to try and contact walkjdesign and see what can be done. I did not idle like this before the tune for sure.
 
Are you going by the dash guage? 400 rpm is pretty low I would expect it to sound different maybe have a little chop ???? and puff of smoke on acceleration. If my truck almost bogs out at that low of rpm it will give a bigger puff of smoke but I am a manual transmission.

The tach signal is from the alternator did you change anything or touch/move it during any of the install? Might check all the wiring connections if so especially the ground at rear of engine to body (near an auto's dipstick)???
 
Swap tunes back to stock and see if the idle changes.
Verify the engine speed with a hand held RPM counter.
Did you replace the alternator - Gas engines have different smaller alt pulleys and would read faster on a diesel engine. Keep your diesel alt pulley always as rebuilds never put the proper one back on for 6.x engines. Possible you blew some diodes or 1 of 3 windings in the alternator cutting it's RPM signal by 1/3.
 
Alright so it IS running the same with both tunes,at about 400 rpms. I haven't verified that it is truly 400 rpms but it sure doesn't sound right. Any suggestions?
 
Again, did you verify the engine is at 400 RPM by other means? The tach or alternator could be failing, miswired, bad grounds, etc.

Pull the batteries for 3 min and see if the ECM resets?

Do you have any tools to to a TDCO learn or read the RPM out of the ECM?
 
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