Replacing my ball joint dust boots

[konstan]

While replacing my front shocks, I noticed that the rubber boots on the ball joints were damaged. So, going to replace the boots (not the ball joints) while the bj themselves are decent, which they seem to be.

So, I am thinking

- remove the wheel
- remove both cotter pins
- unscrew both castle nuts almost all the way but leave them on
- then pickle fork it
- then replace the boots one by one

i.e. not remove the spindle, the 4wd hub, brake caliper, etc.

Anyone see anything wrong with this plan?

 

[Woody35]

Do they just sell the dust boots? Wouldnt the ball joint be already damenged and prone to failure if the torn dust boot already let in water and road debris? Im interested if this really works.

 

[schiker]

I have never seen just the boots for sell either but have only looked a bit when I popped a boot off greasing it. But with high milage on my ball joint I ended up having to replace it anyway after a little longer.

I think I remember or am imagining reading/hearing they made a split boot you could glue on but have never seen it.

 

[jmiller]

You can get universal boots, but pending on mileage, might be a lot of work on an old ball joint. They may not seal as well and would then need more frequent greasing to keep the bad stuff flushed out.


On removal, back the nut off a couple turns. With suspension pressure on the knuckle, whack the knuckle with a 2lb / 5lb Hammer.
Once the joint pops, apply proper support and remove the nut and to the job.

A pickle fork should be used if the above method does not work.

This prevents damage to the ball joint and if needing to remove the knuckle, prevents damage to the boots.

 

[bison]

Personally i would not reuse a ball or tierod joint if it has been loosened with a pickle fork,there's no way of telling if these joints have been compromised by the forcing action of the fork.

I would just keep greasing them more often and replace the joints when they start to get to much play.

my 2 c

 

[ak diesel driver]

x2

 

[3500GMC]

Just keep them full 'o' grease until the joint needs replacin'. And that's my dos pesos.

 

[Ratman]

Personally i would not reuse a ball or tierod joint if it has been loosened with a pickle fork,there's no way of telling if these joints have been compromised by the forcing action of the fork.

I would just keep greasing them more often and replace the joints when they start to get to much play.

my 2 c

Exactly my opinion as well. My experience has been that once a joint has been disassembled using a pickle fork, (or by any other method that applies enough force to free the taper), the joint is usually compromised as a result. The force that is involved to free the taper is on the magnitude of several tons typically, -usually exceeding the rating of the ball joint (tie-rod ends, pitman arms/idler arms included here as well). The only exception to this would be if you were lucky enough to install a nut on the threads of the taper stud and blast it with a hammer and get lucky enough for the taper to separate. It's worth a try, sometimes you get lucky, -but when you don't it usually means either leaving it alone, -or pickle fork time. Never try the hammer trick on a pitman arm installed on a steering box, -that is a bad idea for obvious reasons.

I would tend to leave the ones you have in place and hit them with a squirt of grease every month (or oil change) and call it a day until joint replacement time.

.02

 

[konstan]

Ok guys thanks for all the feedback! I hear what you are all saying about the potential damage to the joint with the pickle fork. But I can't look at that rubber boot and not do something about it. I just won't sleep at night I'll try to figure out how to do it gently...

Will an air powered pickle fork be gentler? because it works by vibration more so than by brute force...

 

[Ratman]

Ok guys thanks for all the feedback! I hear what you are all saying about the potential damage to the joint with the pickle fork. But I can't look at that rubber boot and not do something about it. I just won't sleep at night I'll try to figure out how to do it gently...

Will an air powered pickle fork be gentler? because it works by vibration more so than by brute force...

The air hammer method may be slightly better from an impact standpoint, but the force is still a serious concern.

My opinion would be the same, -you're still risking the joint.

 

[btfarm]

If you had an alignment lately the alignment guys like to tear the boot in order to look at the jount (and try to sell you a replacement + labor). Pisses me off. I just grease more often until it needs replaced as was already said.

 

[konstan]

I can get the new rubber boot around the upper joint with just the wheel and the caliper off.

It looks like to get the lower ball joint out, I am going to have to do something about the half shaft, i.e. get it out of the way.

 

[Sunshine]

Had a small rip in the boot, the whole Shaft had to come out cuz you got to have and find that clip to separate the half shaft to put the boot then special clamp to clamp the ring on. As Rich/ Ratman said if your lucky not to damage the thread like I did cuz I had to use a jack to loosen ever thing it " Try to kept the Nut on the End" I was lucky a found this type of file that spread out the thread again. Once bitten twice shy.

Good Luck

 

[konstan]

I finally got it done.
The rubber boots on the driver side ball joints were all chewed up.
The joints themselves seemed solid, so, if caught in time, replacing the dust boots will prolong the life of the joints.

NOTE-- be really gentle with the pickle fork. Ideally you just put on a little pressure and then whack the knuckle with a 5 lb hammer.

Had to unbolt a few more things than I originally planned.
In case anyone happens to be looking for steps on steering knuckle removal here are the steps.

Parts needed: two replacement rubber dust boots, from the Help section. They come in 4 sizes, get the larger size.

1. Jack the truck up, support with a stand (not under the steering arm - you want to support the frame, not the suspension arm) and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the brake caliper (two hex bolts, will need a hex key for gm brake calipers available in the Help section of most parts stores) and hang it out of the way.
3. Keep the rotor on for now, put a couple of lug nuts back on to hold the rotor, you will see why.
4. Remove the speed sensor wire clips (one on the knuckle and one on the frame) and disconnect the wire from the connector (on the frame).
5. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint, then loosen the castle nut and back it off but do not remove completely. Repeat for the lower ball joint.
6. You should be able to free the knuckle from the upper joint. Use the pickle fork, gently, to separate the joint from the knuckle.
7. If you look at the lower joint, you can see that the axleshaft is in the way. It nees to be moved out of the way.
8. Remove the axle nut. It takes a 36mm socket which I rented at advance auto parts. Stick a large screwdriver through one of the ports in the rotor to stop it from rotating.
9. Remove the 6 bolts holding the axleshaft to the differential. Mark where the shaft mates with the differential. I used white touch-up paint.
8. Disconnect the knuckle from the tie rod end. I used a three jaw puller to push the end of the tie rod end bolt out of the knuckle.
9. With the knuckle separated from the upper bj you now can gently wrestle the halfshaft away from the spindle.
10. Separate the knuckle from the lower bj.
11. Replace the rubber boots and reassemble. Getting the knuckle back onto those joints may be hard because it's heavy. I used a rachet strap around the spindle and up around where the top of the shock attaches.

 

[3500GMC]

You're an animal.

I woulda never fussed with boots like that.

I applaud your effort.

 

[bison]

I rather would've spend the time fishing but hey,its your time and truck

 

[konstan]

Fishing is good but I don't fish (I hunt tho) and I do enjoy wrenching on my truck.
The important experience here was that now I know stuff about the front suspension in this truck...

 

[Sunshine]

To true, now others can have the experience of your gained knowledge.:thumbsup: