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Replacing my 91 6.2 with a 93 6.5T

R

rebar

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Iowa
Hey guys.. Iv been told a 92-93 ck3500 6.5Turbo engine is a direct swap with my 91 ck2500 6.2 So Im looking at a 93 ck3500 dually turbo to replace my 91 6.2 n/a ck2500.

I want to rob body parts off my 91 and install on the 93. Then maybe rebuild my 6.2 and replace the 6.5 with a fresh engine and reuse the turbo setup.

The 1 ton has a NV4500 and my 3/4 has a sm465

Is it easier to ask what wont interchange?

Thanks!
 
Should be pretty much exact swap. The clutches will be different i would think. The injecton pumps will be different between turbo spec 4911 and the older NA spec 6.2 pump but the 6.2 pump can be turned up to have similar power.


Why not just bolt the turbo manifolds to the 91 with a better turbo and install the NV4500 with new clutch and single mass flywheel.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Should be pretty much exact swap. The clutches will be different i would think. The injection pumps will be different between turbo spec 4911 and the older NA spec 6.2 pump but the 6.2 pump can be turned up to have similar power.


Why not just bolt the turbo manifolds to the 91 with a better turbo and install the NV4500 with new clutch and single mass flywheel.
Click to expand...

Because the 93 6.5T was rebuilt by the owner and I want the dually for towing my 8000# toy-hauler. 93 has rebuilt short block w/60 over, but the heads, turbo, pumps and injectors are untouched.

Got another question for you. Where do you identify which block you have? 599 or 660? I was told left side by the bell housing bolts, but all I can see is my oil filter and block heater.
 
Pass side belhousing mount or the engine valley. The 91 could be either 660 of 599 iirc. You will see it from the top behind the heads kinda

.060 out of the block is quite a bit, becareful with that one. The heads need to be gone over, and check out when off. Injectors and glow plugs should be replaced, the pump on the 6.5l is "ok" until it gives you problems but there could be lost power that a fresh pump could give you back. MIght want to add head studs while its all out.

Just to be clear the 6.2 can put out the exact same power as a 6.5 if you put the 6.5 manifolds and turbo on. If you have a rebuilt engine to drop in then by all means do it!

Like I said earlier a bigger/better turbo is a good idea. ATT or HX what ever floats your boat.
 
I'd be leery of a 60 over engine. the block numbers are also in the form of cast dots under the intake in the valley
 
tanman_2006 said:
Like I said earlier a bigger/better turbo is a good idea. ATT or HX what ever floats your boat.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: Your best improvement is getting rid of the factory turbo for towing as you can gain 20 MPH on a hard grade with a better turbo. :eek:

Why are you swapping engines? I agree that a 3rd rebuild on a 6.5 is very iffy. The blocks are crack prone even without a rebuild.

The big difference is in heads from the 6.2 NA to the 6.5. If you are cheap like I am you can use the 6.2 heads but, punch out the 6.2 NA precups and use any 6.5 turbo precup. The injector angle makes clearance tight with 6.2 heads and the turbo manifold. 2 gaskets and an understanding you have to pull the manifold to do injectors and you are able to use it. Injectors are different lengths. I can't stress enough to use different turbo precups.

1/4 to 1/2 turn on the NA pump screw and you have 6.5 power. The TPS is different from 6.2 pumps to 6.5 pumps. The TPS stays with the pump, not the vehicle. The throttle shaft rotates more on the 6.5 pump.

Pay the money for ARP head studs. They are worth it for pulling with bigger turbo's and stock turbo's at that.

If you do have a crack free block to rebuild I recommend the total seal gapless rings. They keep your oil clean enough to see the markings on the dipstick through the oil 10K after a rebuild with 3K on the oil! :eek: Yeah, that big of a difference!
 
ak diesel driver said:
I'd be leery of a 60 over engine. the block numbers are also in the form of cast dots under the intake in the valley
Click to expand...

Iv only heard about main bearing webs and heads cracking. But I have nowhere the experience of many of you.

About to make a $1.5k offer because Im only hauling 8000#
 
I swapped in a '82 6.2 with some porting and other super secret mods (not really) and ended up with a good combo.

This is in my '93 with all the '93 plumbing and fueling even the GM-3 turbo.. As mentioned above, a bigger turbo would be a good thing in many ways.

Right now I just don't rev it... cause it won't :hihi: The tiny turbo is like a cork..
 
rebar said:
Iv only heard about main bearing webs and heads cracking. But I have nowhere the experience of many of you.

About to make a $1.5k offer because Im only hauling 8000#
Click to expand...

$1,500 for a whole truck or even a rebuilt 6.5, all the dressings, and a tranny isnt bad.

Our cylinder walls are somewhat thin and taking too much out of them has caused problems for some while others never have an issue.

Post some pics of your rig for us. Do you have a V3500 square body or c/k3500 gmt400? Either way you have a good rig but the V body will have turbo clearance issues.
 
tanman_2006 said:
$1,500 for a whole truck or even a rebuilt 6.5, all the dressings, and a tranny isnt bad.

Our cylinder walls are somewhat thin and taking too much out of them has caused problems for some while others never have an issue.

Post some pics of your rig for us. Do you have a V3500 square body or c/k3500 gmt400? Either way you have a good rig but the V body will have turbo clearance issues.
Click to expand...

91ck25006.2na 002.jpg91ck25006.2na 003.jpg91ck25006.2na 004.jpg91ck25006.2na 006.jpg91ck25006.2na 007.jpg91ck25006.2na 001.jpg

See if this works
 
Here is the truck Im considering.. It needs 6 new tires, rear brakes and 3rd gear synco,, that I know of..

I think I would move all the body parts from my 91 3/4ton silver truck over to his 93 red 1 ton. Makes more sense than swapping his engine and rear 1 ton axle over to mine.. I think.

He just replied to my $1500 offer and said he needs $2000
 
What body parts are you swapping?
Sure 6 tires on the ground give you more stable trailer towing, but, it is 6 vs. 4 tires and it costs more for the two extra tires.

I just don't see the reason you are stripping your truck.

Want a turbo setup? The manifolds cost ~$450 for the turbo side new, ~$800 for a new A Team Turbo, find a used oil drain tube (I may have one extra) and add a 4' exhaust (~$500.). You will also need a diesel bumper with the two air holes and a cooling system upgrade of a better fan and fan clutch. This is night and day better than the factory setup that rolls over and dies over 2200 RPM. Add a spool valve and you really have the best of both worlds. Article about this.
 
WarWagon said:
I just don't see the reason you are stripping your truck.

Want a turbo setup? The manifolds cost ~$450 for the turbo side new, ~$800 for a new A Team Turbo, find a used oil drain tube (I may have one extra) and add a 4' exhaust (~$500.). You will also need a diesel bumper with the two air holes and a cooling system upgrade of a better fan and fan clutch. This is night and day better than the factory setup that rolls over and dies over 2200 RPM. Add a spool valve and you really have the best of both worlds. Article about this.
Click to expand...

Yea. I wont steal parts from mine. Be better off buying other panels and a dually bed.

Not sure if I want to add a turbo to my 6.2 I would much rather find something to replace it and my slate is clean so I can consider anything.
 
The 6.5 has been gone through and they wouldnt have rebuilt it if the mains were bad. The 6.2 shouldnt have busted mains since it doesnt have a turbo and if it is a low mile engine it should be fine. 150K on a 6.x is nothing as long as the mains are good, the 6.5 being rebuilt twice @135K raises an eye brow with me.
 
WarWagon said:
Want a turbo setup? The manifolds cost ~$450 for the turbo side new, ~$800 for a new A Team Turbo, find a used oil drain tube (I may have one extra) and add a 4' exhaust (~$500.). You will also need a diesel bumper with the two air holes and a cooling system upgrade of a better fan and fan clutch. This is night and day better than the factory setup that rolls over and dies over 2200 RPM. Add a spool valve and you really have the best of both worlds. Article about this.
Click to expand...

Are these parts available to add a turbo to a 95 3/4 ton van with 6.5 n/a I found just south of me? I know GM used a center mount turbo and different heads.. Thinking out loud
 
Not at all familiar with the confines of a van engine bay and/or what will work..

If you're crafty, you could do your own center mount turbo on the Six Point Two using a Real turbo.. :thumbsup:

I wouldn't pilfer parts from that silver truck, it's a beauty ! Does it have a full floater 14 bolt rear?
 
3500GMC said:
Not at all familiar with the confines of a van engine bay and/or what will work..

If you're crafty, you could do your own center mount turbo on the Six Point Two using a Real turbo.. :thumbsup:

I wouldn't pilfer parts from that silver truck, it's a beauty ! Does it have a full floater 14 bolt rear?
Click to expand...

I dont have much time for projects like that nor does the city put up with work in the driveway. Its a possibility though since my buddy has a shop.
Finding something already done, or easily done would be the ticket.

Yes 12 bolt full floater. Might be for sale soon.
 
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