• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Replace cylinder head help

T

trucknboatn

New Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
Hamilton, Ohio
Hello everyone this is my fist post here at the truck stop. I just finished tearing down my 1995 6.5 L suburban F model, and I need some help as to what upgrades and new parts to buy. I have searched and read forums for hours...
Here is what I have come up with.
Felpro Head gasket set with head bolts.
Should I get new injectors or service the original?
Should I get new glow plugs?
Should I get a 3'' crossmember Exhaust pipe?
I think I will do the rear head coolant upgrade where you tap into the rear of the head then into the heater hose. Any recomendations on this.
High output water pump.
Would I also need to upgrade to the two thermostat cooling upgrade?
I am deleting the vacuume pump.
Eventually I will be doing 4'' staight pipe
Oh and should I just get the heads decked and rebuild the valves or what is everyones opinion on clearwater heads for 600 bucks doesnt sound bad. What are the Pros cons with these heads?

I am planning on using the suburban mostly for towing a 4500 lb boat and trailer through kentucky and tennesse throughout summer, and I am looking for reliability fuel mileage and power in that order. Any suggestions are welcome. And is there anything else I should do while I have the heads off. I just bought this suburban a week ago and already blown head gasket or cracked head cant tell which... probably both. Only drove it for 2 days... now trying to fix everything gm should have done with these motors, haha. Suburban only has 95k miles. Thanks Jesse
 
Welcome to the Truck Stop! :thumbsup:

I was in the middle of something and only had time to move this thread to the proper place there blue! :thumbsup:

School sux!

Here is the link to clearwater heads;

http://www.cylinder-heads.com/

If I was in a rebuild I would get them.

The amount of weight you want to pull is not much weight at all.
 
Last edited:
trucknboatn said:
Hello everyone this is my fist post here at the truck stop. I just finished tearing down my 1995 6.5 L suburban F model, and I need some help as to what upgrades and new parts to buy. I have searched and read forums for hours...
Here is what I have come up with.
Felpro Head gasket set with head bolts.
Should I get new injectors or service the original?
If your there you minus well do the injectors while your at it. Easier to do injectors while everything is apart than it is with it stuffed in the engine. 6.5 injectors aren't that complicated however there are also few shops out there that really know how to service injectors. Most just buy new one. My opinion, just go with genuine Bosch Injectors. It will save you headaches later
Should I get new glow plugs?
Same as above, do them while your down there. Mileage is a big thing on these too. Glow plugs are easy to change so if your on a tight budget than you can put them off, but if not than replace them now and save yourself the trouble later:thumbsup:
Should I get a 3'' crossmember Exhaust pipe?
The stock downpipe is 3". Remember your only carrying the exhaust from the drivers bank of cylinders so a 2.25 or a2.5" will be more than sufficient. Also consider that a larger pipe reduces the pushing power that drives side cylinder bank has on the turbocharger. But anything over 2" thats mandrel bent it better than stock.
I think I will do the rear head coolant upgrade where you tap into the rear of the head then into the heater hose. Any recommendations on this.
I have actually not heard of doing this upgrade but in theory it makes sense. Just be cautious where you are drilling and tapping
High output water pump.
Good choice
Would I also need to upgrade to the two thermostat cooling upgrade?
If you don't have a dual thermostat housing right now than yes it would be a good idea. Also consider the DMAX fan and HD clutch to assist and keep things cool.
I am deleting the vacuume pump.
This will require a mechanical wastegate on your turbocharger if you plan on deleting the pump, but otherwise after that there is no need for it.
Eventually I will be doing 4'' staight pipe
Oh and should I just get the heads decked and rebuild the valves or what is everyones opinion on clearwater heads for 600 bucks doesnt sound bad. What are the Pros cons with these heads?
I've never heard of clearwater heads so I wont input there. The best so far seem to be Chinese copies of the AM/general heads for the new 6500 optimizer blocks. Those are really the best we as civilians can get ahold of without inside connections or paying out the rear for it.

I am planning on using the suburban mostly for towing a 4500 lb boat and trailer through kentucky and tennesse throughout summer, and I am looking for reliability fuel mileage and power in that order. Any suggestions are welcome. And is there anything else I should do while I have the heads off. I just bought this suburban a week ago and already blown head gasket or cracked head cant tell which... probably both. Only drove it for 2 days... now trying to fix everything gm should have done with these motors, haha. Suburban only has 95k miles. Thanks Jesse
Click to expand...

While the heads are off check your pistons and whatnot for any obvious damage and or valve markings in the cylinders. relocate your PMD if you havent done so already.
 
Lol, you guys are too funny up there!

I would resolve the head/gasket issue before dropping another dime in it.

Bring the heads to a machine shop to check out / rebuild.

Felpro Gaskets and new head bolts for sure.

Maybe straight edge the block while they are out.

Re-install and make sure everything is good. and Block is fine.


Then.

Injectors are recommended at 100k, so your due there.

A 3"Downpipe & exhaust lets things breath, that goes hand in hand with juicing up the air path.

Glows, sure why not.

I'd remove radiator and clean the piss out of it with scrubbing bubbles on sawhorses, install a new Delco 195t-stat, or robert Shaw 195. I'd leave the single housing, and wouldn't do the rear head thing.

Give it a go. make sure your temps don't go over 210 consistantly. Fan clutch should engage before that if needed. If it doesn't search for "DIY FAN CLUTCH MOD" and tweak it until it does.

Thats my .02.
 
bigbluechevy quote:The best so far seem to be Chinese copies of the AM/general heads for the new 6500 optimizer blocks: does any one have a link for these or any info about them I havent seen anything about them.

I guess I won't be doing the dual thermostat And I can wait and do the fan mod later once I get it all together

There is a shop around that services injectors if I got them rebuilt will they be as good as new.

As you can tell this is my first diesel and I am still learning.
 
DieselCash said:
Welcome to the Truck Stop! :thumbsup:

I was in the middle of something and only had time to move this thread to the proper place there blue! :thumbsup:

School sux!

Here is the link to clearwater heads;
Click to expand...

):h):h:D Just busting chops :D):h):h

trucknboatn said:
bigbluechevy quote:The best so far seem to be Chinese copies of the AM/general heads for the new 6500 optimizer blocks: does any one have a link for these or any info about them I havent seen anything about them.

I guess I won't be doing the dual thermostat And I can wait and do the fan mod later once I get it all together

There is a shop around that services injectors if I got them rebuilt will they be as good as new.

As you can tell this is my first diesel and I am still learning.
Click to expand...


Here is a thread that talks about both the Chinese copies and the clearwater heads:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=12829&highlight=chinese+heads

It seems you found this thread before I did and seeing as the source for the Chinese copies has "disappeared, everybody seems to like the clearwater heads. Learn something new everyday:thumbsup:

Make sure the shop you use SHOWS YOU what pressure they are setting the injectors at. A good point is 2200psi, + or - 10 psi between all of them. That will give you a very fine atomized mist, which is exactly what the pistons are looking for. It also ensures that the injectors will all fire at the same pressure. To high or to low of a pop pressure can mean an injector popping to late, or too early, which can cause damage and knocking

Ha could have fooled me on this being your first diesel. If only there where more of you who used search like you seem to have. Sounds to me like you know what your doing:thumbsup:
 
I have personally used the CLEARWATER heads and love them.
For the price they can't be beat.

Mine were $670 to the door with a return voucher for my old heads

These are new castings with possibly recond valves etc.

I would use the HO wter pump along with the dual stat Xover.

A better exhaust crossover is not a bad thing along with a big exhaust

New Glow plugs are a good idea. (Delco 60G)
Felpro head gaskets, new bolts Oh yess
Have the injectors serviced by a good shop (Have them set at 2000 PSI POP and make all equal)

****Important*****

The pushrods in a 6.5/6.2 are not like other chevy engines.

One end has a copper color on it around the ball area. This may be hard to see or very faint.

The colored end MUST go to the rocker, failure to do so will result in the rocker and the rod failing.

The one ball is hardened and the one that is in the lifter is not.

Replace the rocker arm guide buttons with new ones.

Just pry the old ones out, make sure none of the old stuff stays in the rocker shaft.
Drive the new ones in with a suitable tool. (3/4 inch piece of rod works great along with a suitable club)

The buttons are a plastic gizmo with a barbed shank. (Like the buttons that hold the door panels on )


Missy
 
Thanks for all the great replies... Seems to be some controversy between dual themostat and oem I suppose I will leave it alone for now and see how it goes
 
Well, since its questionable whether or not its beneficial, there are better things to spend money on than that IMO.

FWIW duals are OEM on 96+, Some of the 'experts' claim the single is better... so I think its a tossup. I don't think there is any hard evidence that one flows 'too little' or that 2 flows 'too much'... The HO waterpump is key here I think is the concensus.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have a link or more info as to the brass /bronze coolant passage sleeve. Do machine shops commonly do this I haven't heard of it before.
 
Many good shops understand the procedure and will do it.

The sleaves are a common valve guide that is available through many sources.

The procedure is simple. Remove the little soft plugs in the head that cover the passage between the valves.

Ream the passage out and press in the brass inserts with a locitite material to seal them.
Reinstall new plugs. Good to go.


This is a simple explanation of the procedure.

These heads are notorious for cracking between the valve seats (In the web area)
if the crack is deep enough it can reach water and then you get an over pressure in the cooling system.

Personally I would not spend the $$$ on a set of the factory heads if they are cracked.
A factory set of heads that are crack free would be fine to do a valve job on and reuse.

If they have cracks, replace with a set of Clear water units and be done with it.

Now this said, there are other heads available and many of these may be high quality.
I have used Clearwater and can recommend them simply because of personal experience.

The bronze sleave repair is done often and is reported to be a good fix.

If a head has ANY cracks that go onto the fire deck, the head is JUNK.

There is NO way to fix a crack other than the simple ones between the valves.

Seats can be cut out and hardened seats installed but the cost just keeps heading NORTH and fast.

When a fresh casting can be had its not cost effective to mess with the OLD junk heads.


Almost anything can be done (except if the head has serious cracks) its just money and the biggy is WILL IT LAST.



Missy
 
Ok so I want to prepare my truck for EGT gauge and Boost gauge while it is apart and I am waiting on parts. Does anyone know what size to tap the threads into the exhaust manifold pre turbo. I want to drill and tap threads then plug it so I can easily add a gauge later. I also plan on doing a boost gauge should I tee off the intake temp sensor or drill the plenum?
 
trucknboatn said:
Ok so I want to prepare my truck for EGT gauge and Boost gauge while it is apart and I am waiting on parts. Does anyone know what size to tap the threads into the exhaust manifold pre turbo. I want to drill and tap threads then plug it so I can easily add a gauge later. I also plan on doing a boost gauge should I tee off the intake temp sensor or drill the plenum?[/QUOTE

My pyrometer came with a threaded fitting that gets welded onto the exhaust, but you must drill a hole there first. Position is close to the exhaust manifold on the driver's side, but be sure to position it such that you leave enough clearance to be able to remove and install the bolts.

For boost I drilled the intake pipe after the sleeve connecting the turbo. Someone sells a bolt that goes into the plenum that provides a ready tap for this.
Click to expand...
 
Wherever you decide to drill the hole for the Pyro to go, just be sure you dont leave any crap in the Pipe/manifold.

There have been a few hapless souls that have drilled/burned holes in the manifolds and or Xover pipes and left the crud/savings in there.

When this junk sails through the turbo at warp speed, it can and usually does irrepairable damage to the turbo.

Just a note, keep everything clean.

One of the best places for the pyro is in the first couple inches of the LH side of the Xover just below the manifold.

You can get a "weld Bung" that the pyro probe fits into.

Select a suitable spot thats accessable whenn things are all buttoned up and drilll the pipe, blow out the chips, weld in the bung and your set.

This spot will give you a very good idea of whats coming out of the heads as far as heat goes..

Best

Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Wherever you decide to drill the hole for the Pyro to go, just be sure you dont leave any crap in the Pipe/manifold.

There have been a few hapless souls that have drilled/burned holes in the manifolds and or Xover pipes and left the crud/savings in there.

When this junk sails through the turbo at warp speed, it can and usually does irrepairable damage to the turbo.

Just a note, keep everything clean.

One of the best places for the pyro is in the first couple inches of the LH side of the Xover just below the manifold.

You can get a "weld Bung" that the pyro probe fits into.

Select a suitable spot thats accessable whenn things are all buttoned up and drilll the pipe, blow out the chips, weld in the bung and your set.

This spot will give you a very good idea of whats coming out of the heads as far as heat goes..

Best

Missy
Click to expand...

By LH side i assume you mean drivers side... wouldn't it be better to get both exhaust manifolds after the passenger side manifold to get a combination temp. And why cant i just drill tap and thread a sensor in, why does it have to be welded? I would think these manifolds are thick enough that they wouldn't strip too easy, I think I want to put one right above the passenger side manifold before the turbo.
 
There is a small flat spot on the pass. side manifold just below the turbo. Most thermal couples use a 1/8" npt. Just drill and tap. And as Missy said make sure no shavings are left behind
 
Your set may or may not have a 1/8NPT if not it is an easy pickup at NAPA.

Be aware NPT are taper threads, so if you go too deep your hole will get too big. If you don't have the thermocouple on hand, pick up a pipe plug and periodically test while tapping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top