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Repair main web cracks with lock n stitch?

Hmm. I mounted centermount turbo and intake system onto the truck head style (n/a hummer) by buying threaded rod, making studs, and very slight manifold alterations in a couple holes. I never looked at what it would take to do the reverse and use a truck manifold onto the verticle holes of the centermount turbo heads.

Hopefully for you we dont need to find out anytime soon.

Probably be more inclined to have them ship you a set of correct heads and a set of new bolts & gaskets if the error happens.
 
Depending if your optimizer comes with injection pump and lines, you might have some more parts to sell off that engine to help the cost.

The oil pan that comes off can be sold for hummers and vans include that in your ad.
 
It's coming as a long block so no extras but I will have a couple good heads to sell. One only has a couple hundred miles on it. Got it from clear water cylinder heads and installed it shortly before the oil pressure went south.

I think I'd be asking for the correct engine to be sent my way if it didn't have the right heads. I guess if they wanted me to swap heads out I would but that might open a can of worms if something went wrong with the engine after I installed it meaning did I do something wrong or was the problem there before. I'm sure I'll get exactly what I requested though. They seem very knowledgeable about the differences with these engines.

Do the GEP engines use the high volume oil pumps already and if not would it benefit anything to install one? Just asking since I just bought one to try to fix the low pressure. Of course it'd have to be cleaned first before it got installed but it has no miles on it
 
I can't recommend enough to pull the heads, pistons, and put in new rings. Leave the crank in place and deglaze the cylinder walls. Quick and dirty ring replacement. Most take out's have gotten hot and have questionable rings with lots of blow-by. Of the two surplus 6.2 engines I have done not doing rings was my biggest regret. They both had a lot of blowby and one got pretty bad in 30K miles. I did gapless rings after one engine ate a worm clamp. That engine has zero blowby with 30K hard miles on the engine. @Burning oil can get you gapless rings. Or send a new set of your choice into Total-Seal to be made gapless. I recall it was $90 for a set to be done sent in.

With what you spent on the engine a set of head bolts, rings, rocker buttons, and head gaskets along with a glaze breaker means you eat beans for another week...
 
I got the optimizer in a couple weeks ago actually. Have been a little slow on getting it ready but I’m ready to go now. I’ve got the pan pulled and this thing is clean! Looking at the cylinder bores from the bottom and they don’t even have a glaze on them so I’m not going to mess with pulling heads and doing rings but I’ve pulled rod and main caps and there are a couple with some light scratches so I am going for rod and mains just to make sure the oil pressure is not an issue again.

Now the rods are all standards and the mains are .013mm which I guess is only available from gm or maybe my machine shop can get them but I went ahead and plastigauged them to see where my clearances where. The mains are at .003” and the rods are at .0015”. I think going back with standards on the rods will be fine but I’d like to tighten the mains to .002”.

Here’s what I’m thinking. After looking main bearings over real close the shell in the caps are the ones with the all wear on them the shells in the block still look new. Kind of odd to me but that’s what im seeing. So what if I was to leave the .013mm which is .0005” in the block and put .001” bearings in the caps would that get me the result I’m looking for or at least to .0025 or am I totally off? Is .002”-.0025 clearance a good place to be or is that to tight? Also I have measured the main journals 1-4 at 2.948”. I forget what I had on 5. Let me know if way off in left field here or not
 
Cylinders glaze where the rings ride aka the top. You are looking at the engine now where rings are easy to swap. This will be the difference between huffing out the oil fill and no blowby. I could eat out of the valve covers from one surplus 6.2 I got. It never seated the 2nd ring and 30k of abuse didn't seat them either - good amount of blowby. If you watched the engine run with zero blowby the skip rings. But you are looking at bearings...

For oil pressure pull the cam and measure clearences. This engine is priority oiling to the camshaft. This means the cam bearings matter more than main and rod bearings for oil pressure. Replace the oil pump to be safe.
 
ALWAYS replace bearings as a set, don't mix and match new and old halves on the same journal. The old trick to tightening up clearances just a thousandth or two back in the day on SBC's was to ever so slightly file down the edges of the two shell halves, assemble and check with Plastigauge, repeat if necessary. This was definitely a case of "Less is more", as too much off would necessitate starting over with a new bearing shell set for the too tight journal(s).
 
X2 on checking the cam bearing clearances on the 6.2/6.5 block family for maintaining oil pressure and installing a new high flow/pressure late model oil pump for cheap insurance.
 
Also, I will be sending all my new bearings once fit is verified to Chris at twisted steel for him to coat. Well worth the cost. Reduced friction amd enxtended life both. If you can afford the nickels and the time.

Also I have pulled pistons out through the bottom of many a diesel engine and never removed the heads. I can’t remember if I have done it on 6.5 or not. Installing the new gapless rings may be an option that way if you would like to do them but dont want to pull head.
 
WarWagon said:
Cylinders glaze where the rings ride aka the top. You are looking at the engine now where rings are easy to swap. This will be the difference between huffing out the oil fill and no blowby. I could eat out of the valve covers from one surplus 6.2 I got. It never seated the 2nd ring and 30k of abuse didn't seat them either - good amount of blowby. If you watched the engine run with zero blowby the skip rings. But you are looking at bearings...

For oil pressure pull the cam and measure clearences. This engine is priority oiling to the camshaft. This means the cam bearings matter more than main and rod bearings for oil pressure. Replace the oil pump to be safe.
Click to expand...

That’s what I’m talking about. I’m looking at the cylinder bores with the piston at tdc and they look great. The internals look like it has very little run time and I’m basing that off the fact that if a diesel has any blowby or a decent amount of run time the internals are going to be stained with the soot that has blown by the rings and mixed with the oil and that’s just not the case. What little oil was still in the pan was dark but I could still see through it.

I will check out the cam bearings for sure. I didn’t know the cam got priority. That’s good to know. I’d just rather have a little blowby than a locked up engine due to low oil pressure.

War wagon I do appreciate your input and advice so I hope I’m not sounding rude when I say I just don’t want/have the money to do a complete tear down on a engine that I don’t think needs it. But I promise if I can air my tires up from this engine I will be back here with my tail between my legs to tell you you were right.

About the bearings if I’m at .003 clearance with .0005 bearings then I should be able to install .001 bearings and get the .002 clearance I’m after right?
 
You have the right idea. .001 for every inch think the rotating assembly. And you generally want the tighter size fit in the bottom. There is a train of thought tha those specs are a little tight for high compression of a diesel. When blue printing, you shoot for the tightest number(smaller clearance) of the specification range. When wanting a tad more engine life you go for the middle of the range. The high compression has me not wanting any tighter than midrange.

Just remember too loose - losses oil, but too tight- tightens and spins a bearing.

I do wish so bad melling (or someone) would make another step up in oil pumps for this engine. I hae seriously thought about extending the pump housing spacer and gears at yonder machinists shop. There was one point they offered through one supplier a pump that came with 3 relief springs so they could choose bypass pressure- but the stiffer springs did bump the numbers by a tad.
 
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