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Removing Lower ball joint rivets

3500GMC said:
When I did my 93 (upper and lower 16 rivets total) I chose to very carefully with a cutting torch, snip the rivet heads off, let cool, hit em a cut off wheel just enough to remove the slag and scale, drill a 1/8" hole all the way out the bottom to let the flame through, fire up the torch again and very carefully blow out just the rivet at least half of it then drift and hammer em out while still hot.

Takes some feel to get the torch to peel away the metal but it works well. Use at least a shade 5 safety goggle/glasses for obvious reasons and it helps to see what you're doing with the flame.
Click to expand...
That method works well for broken exhaust manifold studs/bolts too. The secret is to have a hole all the way through, then, get the stud/bolt to puddle before hitting the oxygen. The cast iron will remain, even the threads, then a thread chaser to clean up the threads.
This method will not work if there is any obstruction in the bottom of the hole.
 
SnowDrift said:
the job doesn't pay much on flat rate - it's honestly worth paying to have a shop do it, in my opinion. Not that it helps you with the side you're on, but maybe for the other side, once the first one is done.
Click to expand...

X1000 THIS! I completely hired out the next time. $800 well spent.
 
WarWagon said:
X1000 THIS! I completely hired out the next time. $800 well spent.
Click to expand...
Doesn't the ball joint job pay an hour and a half or something like that?

A lot of times, I will call my buddy's shop and ask how many hours a job pays and determine my next step, based on this. On a job like this, though, it's very deceptive, in that if you don't have THE tools, it's just gonna suck.
 
3500GMC said:
When I did my 93 (upper and lower 16 rivets total) I chose to very carefully with a cutting torch, snip the rivet heads off, let cool, hit em a cut off wheel just enough to remove the slag and scale, drill a 1/8" hole all the way out the bottom to let the flame through, fire up the torch again and very carefully blow out just the rivet at least half of it then drift and hammer em out while still hot.

Takes some feel to get the torch to peel away the metal but it works well. Use at least a shade 5 safety goggle/glasses for obvious reasons and it helps to see what you're doing with the flame.
Click to expand...

I shake to much to even think about trying to use a torch on anything that isn't hack and wack.
 
This is a major PITA. I started the job when I had the time to do it but with the issues it has been dragging on. I am drilling them but it is slow go working up bit by bit. I am paying for the other side to get done. I have access to an acetylene torch but I don't want to screw it up. Heck maybe I already did. LOL. I was 3 bits away from where I need to be today and the battery on my drill failed and wont recharge so I need to go get a new one tomorrow.
 
Rodd said:
This is a major PITA. I started the job when I had the time to do it but with the issues it has been dragging on. I am drilling them but it is slow go working up bit by bit. I am paying for the other side to get done. I have access to an acetylene torch but I don't want to screw it up. Heck maybe I already did. LOL. I was 3 bits away from where I need to be today and the battery on my drill failed and wont recharge so I need to go get a new one tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Get a corded 1/2" drill. This should not be that hard to drill. Wasn't for me. Get some good bits. I only used two: one small starter and the final large one.
 
Big T said:
Get a corded 1/2" drill. This should not be that hard to drill. Wasn't for me. Get some good bits. I only used two: one small starter and the final large one.
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I have never had to drill through the rivets, for some reason. I always ground off the head and punched them out.
 
^^Yes. The rivet holes in the stamped control arms are slightly bigger than the holes in the ball joint. It creates a step under the head of the rivet.
 
3500GMC said:
^^Yes. The rivet holes in the stamped control arms are slightly bigger than the holes in the ball joint. It creates a step under the head of the rivet.
Click to expand...

Yeah I had to grind the heads off the rivets and then drill them out. Only used one pilot drill bit, followed by the BFDB.
 
I finally got them out. I actually got them out on monday night and my son put it back together on tuesday. When I used my propane torch in the beginning I let it heat up for about 15 minutes each and they wouldn't budge. Once I got to one size smaller that 1/2 I tried to use the air chissel to press the rivets out from the bottom and no go. I then heated them up for about 5 minutes and I heard a tick like it released. I then used the air chissel and they came right out. Wish I had an acetilyne torch.
 
Rodd said:
I finally got them out. I actually got them out on monday night and my son put it back together on tuesday. When I used my propane torch in the beginning I let it heat up for about 15 minutes each and they wouldn't budge. Once I got to one size smaller that 1/2 I tried to use the air chissel to press the rivets out from the bottom and no go. I then heated them up for about 5 minutes and I heard a tick like it released. I then used the air chissel and they came right out. Wish I had an acetilyne torch.
Click to expand...

You fought the ball joints, but you one. Pour yourself a good Scotch.
 
Haha. No, I was not alive in the 60’s. I just like the original, although I do like The Clash, Ramones, Sex Pistols,etc. I listen to everything from the 40’s up except jazz.

I drive guys at work nuts with play lists that jump from FSP to Biggie, then... well here is a random shot of a play list as playing right now on my phone while typing this response:
E2D6B453-14BC-4936-84EC-95E14B205B7F.png

Yeah, I need help-
Haha
 
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