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Removed intake: any suggestions for maintenance or upgrades while it is off?

You guys are great- thanks for the info; however, you are also very experienced mechanics, and can plow through fuel systems in your sleep.

When I replaced my injectors, and had to move the fuel lines, I had a hard time getting them back on with no leaks. Maybe I was just paranoid about bending them too much (i.e. crimping the line). I had all the other hardware off- turbo, heat shield, etc.

If I do replace the rocker buttons, should I take off the turbo in order to remove the fuel lines? The heat shield will need to come off for sure.. My understanding is that I will need to totally disconnect the fuel lines, and that they cannot be bent too much.

I agree with Ratman: the whole nylon parts thing seems crazy. Does anyone know if there are better after-market replacements? I see that SS diesel sells the OEM type.

Thanks.

Pulling injection lines and valve covers is EASY.

My .02
 
There's an outfit right here in my backyard called Portland Engine Rebuilders that offers an upgraded setup that replaces the factory "upholstery" buttons.

They sometimes have sets made up, but I just called and they do not have any sittin' around.

The price I got was $140 for a complete set of four rails (one engine's worth). You send yours in, and they install steel rocker guide buttons that are riveted in place. Turnaround time is 2 days.

Their phone number is 503-230-1276.

I personally didn't really see a need when I screwed my engine together. I mean, there are thousands of these engines running around with the nylon guide buttons. I think that if they are replaced before they get brittle, that would greatly decrease the chance of having a failure.

I've seen P.E.R.'s setup, -and it looks nice. I'd definitely put my money on a rivet over a small piece of barbed nylon, but on the other hand, -it IS hard to argue with so many stock setups running around with no issues.
 
There's an outfit right here in my backyard called Portland Engine Rebuilders that offers an upgraded setup that replaces the factory "upholstery" buttons.

They sometimes have sets made up, but I just called and they do not have any sittin' around.

The price I got was $140 for a complete set of four rails (one engine's worth). You send yours in, and they install steel rocker guide buttons that are riveted in place. Turnaround time is 2 days.

Their phone number is 503-230-1276.

I personally didn't really see a need when I screwed my engine together. I mean, there are thousands of these engines running around with the nylon guide buttons. I think that if they are replaced before they get brittle, that would greatly decrease the chance of having a failure.

I've seen P.E.R.'s setup, -and it looks nice. I'd definitely put my money on a rivet over a small piece of barbed nylon, but on the other hand, -it IS hard to argue with so many stock setups running around with no issues.

Take one of your plastic buttons or a new one to your local metal shop ( high school or professional) and have the shop class make you 16 metal buttons as thick and as wide as the plastic with a 1/4 hole in the middle of each. Have them put a slight depression in the center as wide as the head of a 1/4 steel rivet from your local fastener shop then forget ever having to replace the plastic buttons again. I made mine from a scrap piece of stainless that I machined up on my metal lathe. I might have a picture if you need one.
 
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