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Remoting the PMD...Do I need to...

T

TN3500

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disconnect the battery in order to do so?

Part's on order. Fun weekend ahead :D

Apologies if this is on another thread. I couldn't find it by searching. Thanks!
 
Nope, you dont have to-- I never have.
Welcome to the site TN3500, dont forget to fill out you siggy :)
 
Are you removing the existing PMD and remoting it onto a heatsink with an extension cable, or ordering a new PMD/Heatsink/cable?

Just curious... the time allocations are very much different.
 
Welcome to DTR! :thumbsup:

We are always glad to help out a fellow 6.5TD owner.
 
I have remoted the pmd to the front bumper and it ran like a champ for 24 hours, then today after driving about ten miles and it sitting in the shade for about an hour, It started fine, but as i started to pull away it stalled again. Took about three tries to get it started again. Engine would turn over but not fire just like when it was getting hot under the hood. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Hey there TN3500, you haven't given us any details. Here's what your friends are saying:

1) You don't have to disconnect the battery, but if you like to be extra safe, you can. It shouldn't make any difference unless you short something out while wiggling wires.

2) You should NOT reuse the PMD/FSD - you should use a new one. If you were having problems with the PMD on the pump, "Remoting" it will not cure it. "Remoting" simply avoids the damage. If it already has damage, you can't cure it that way... hence the call for a new driver.

3) Your best best is to buy the Heath Remote FSD solution - it comes with a warranty, and has proven very reliable.

4) IF you decide to build your own, then you need to use a new driver, get an appropriately-sized heatsink, either buy or build a decent extender cable, follow basic rules (e.g. keep the ground wire in place), and make sure you connect the FSD to the heatsink properly - (e.g. use of proper thermal compound, proper torque sequence and torque amount, proper weather sealing, etc.).

You're just not giving us enough info to help you.

Based on what you have written so far, I think you must be re-using your old FSD, which is fried. You need a new one!

-Rob :)
 
The pmd should not be fried because i replaced it when I remoted it with a brand new dipaco that is heat rated even higher than the original one. I located it in the front bumper on a heatsink and used the extended harness that came with the remote kit. The truck runs incredibly well and gets excellent fuel mileage, but this little stalling issue is starting to get on my nerves. I can always get the truck started again, I just worry about the load it puts on the starter all the time. Like I said in an earlier post; once I remoted the pmd it did not stall for a day but then decided it would do it after driving about ten miles, and it was not a cold start when i left on that little errand.
 
My suggestion, try to DO the diagnostic list!!!

You have more than 1 problems, may be LP or OPS or both depending on the year. May be electrical. Hopefully it is not the IP going bad.
 
I pulled the PMD offa my pump, slapped in on a cheapo Fleabay heatsink, hooked it up with the 6-ft extension I bought, then stuck it in the bumper snout. It wasn't stalling before; it isn't stalling now. I keep the Dipaco as a spare. One day I'll drill and tap the other cheapo Fleabay heatsink, mount the Dipaco, stick it in the snout, and keep the original as a "known good" spare.
 
You may be having an optical sensor that giving up.
Pull the codes and see if anything shows up.

The Dipaco PMD's have a great track record.

MGW
 
What exactly is the optical sensor, and is that something I can change myself? I assume when you use the initials "LP" that you are talking about low fuel pressure. Is that correct?
 
LP = lift pump. It's located on the driver's side inner frame rail, back by the tank, and is powered by an oil-pressure safety switch and a relay. if your LP isn't working, you will have issues.

You need to test the LP flow pressure and rate. As was mentioned, actually going through and DOING the items in the diagnostic checklist is great preventative maintenance, as well as helping to narrow down your issue.

Remember, we can't see, hear, touch, or smell your engine... asking us to guess at what's wring is going to ge you ... guesses.

Guesses cost you money and time. Doing the checklist really saves both.
 
I am not trying to make people take a guess. I am providing info the best way I can. I was just wondering if there were other people out there that may have these same symptons. I have owned this truck for a total of 4 weeks now so alot of this stuff is new to me. For instance, I have no clue where to find this diagnostic list everyone keeps posting about, and I am still not sure what the optical sensor does.
 
The diagnostic checklist is in my signature, TN. Copy it into a word processor document, go through and do all the tests, write your findings in the blanks (using a different colour makes it easier to read), then copy the completed document into a new post.

We can read the entire thing and get a fairly good picture of what is right and wrong with your rig - many of the issues you are asking about have multiple causes, and if we don't have complete information, then all we can do is guess.

Your Optic sensor is a component of your injection pump that monitors fuel flow. A dirty, misaligned, or failing OS will cause you problems. Incidentally, those problems are identical to the ones caused by having contaminated fuel, worn pump tolerances needing higher lubricity, PMD or grounding issues, or general IP failure. That's what I mean when I say we need better information. Changing the OS is about 2nd last on the list, there are easier and cheaper things you can do first to try and narrow down the problem.

By the way, the 6.2/6.5 technical library has some pretty good resources to help you figure out what everything is and does.
 
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