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Remote Oil Filter Kit - Who's

Sort of hard to get a good pic, Bob, with where everything is located, but I think this is the best of the ones I took. Don't get confused by the two hoses that are running forward, more-or-less parallel with each other - those are the oil cooler lines.

The "out" hose is the one that is basically in the middle of the spin-on adapter (on the left side in this particular picture). It's the one that goes forward, over top the T-case and back. It just barely sets on the case - you can see I put a piece of garden hose around the SS as an extra precaution. However there are no wear marks on the hose - it really does just set there, barely touching. It doesn't touch anywhere else. I kept the bend nice and smooth, as big of a radius as I could.

The "in/return" line is the one that is on the outside edge of spin-on adapter - hard to see in this pic - you can just barely make out the 90* adapter. This one is pretty much a straight shot back to the mount. Easy.

By the way, the remote mount has an extra set of in/out ports.

Note the salt corrosion on the 90*'s. It might not be a bad idea to spray a little clear coat on them to possibly avoid this.

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Here's some pics of my amsoil oil filter setup.
 

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here's a link to the perma-cool DUAL remote Oil Filter Mount I run.

http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page27.html

I almost used that one, too. But I decided I liked the idea of having an extra set of in/out ports. My plan was to add a second, much larger filter (one with a very low micron rating, too).

Either way, whether a single/dual mount or bypass, you'll be much happier when it comes time to change the oil!
 
Dennis, I'm getting ready to order my parts and Summit is suggesting some assembly lube for the hose connectors. Is that really necessary?
Thx,
Bob
 
Dennis, I'm getting ready to order my parts and Summit is suggesting some assembly lube for the hose connectors. Is that really necessary?
Thx,
Bob

Nah. IIRC, maybe all I did was heat up the hose? I certainly didn't buy any special lube. If I did use anything to help the hose slide onto the barb, I probably just used a bit of WD-40.

If you're using the SS lines, wrap electrical tape about 2 or 3 times around the area you want to cut - then cut in the middle of the tape. It'll help to keep the ends from fraying. I don't recall, but I may have even left the tape on the hose when I assembled the fittings. BE SURE THE HOSE GOES ALL THE WAY INTO THE FITTING - AND THAT IT STAYS THERE AS YOU FINISH PUTTING THE FITTING TOGETHER. Keep pushing the hose into the fitting as you assemble it.

TIP: Measure how far the hose should go into the fitting and make a mark on the outside of the hose to represent that distance. When it's all assembled, where that mark is in relation to the end of the fitting will let you know if the hose started to push it's way back out. None of this is rocket science, just make good and sure the hose is all the way in the fitting and everything is nice and tight. You can use a permanent marker or even tape to make this mark.

After you're all done and have started the truck to check for leaks - this mark will give you a quick visual as to whether or not everything's OK. Check it periodically as part of your normal PM.
 
Thanks Dennis, Thats a good tip on the electric tape when cutting it. I will probably use a chop saw or cutoff tool.
 
Hey Dennis, that one line where it comes off of the 90 and you can't see it in the pictures, where/how does it get across the drive shaft?
 
Hey Dennis, that one line where it comes off of the 90 and you can't see it in the pictures, where/how does it get across the drive shaft?

It actually never comes across/under the shaft. It stays above it the whole time. It goes between the bell housing and the drive shaft.

Before I did anything with my SS hoses, I used some old garden hose to mock-up where the hoses would run. It also gave me a good estimate to the length I would need. I then cut them on the long side and attached them only to the block adapter. I then ran the SS along the path I had figured out with the garden hose and made my final marks for length. I already had the remote mount attached to the truck (with the 90*'s loosely attached to the mount) so it was just a matter of holding the SS hose up to the remote mount's 90*'s and making my final mark. Then I just removed the SS lines/90*'s from the block adapter, removed the 90*'s from the remote mount and took it all back to the workbench where I tightened everything up (the block adpater and remote mount can stay on the truck).
 
Well my Son and I tried to finish my remote oil filter today. Everything was going good till we started it and the oil pressure came up to about 40 lbs, this 90 from Summit came apart. On the right side of the picture you can see a small hole in that piece, there is supposed to be a pin in there that locks into the second groove in the 90 on the left side of the picture. The bummer is that nobody that's open on Sunday carries anything like this. I guess I'll have to haggle with Summit about a replacement, meanwhile my truck is sitting in the barn and I'm driving the In-Laws Honda.
Bad90.jpg
 
Well my Son and I tried to finish my remote oil filter today. Everything was going good till we started it and the oil pressure came up to about 40 lbs, this 90 from Summit came apart. On the right side of the picture you can see a small hole in that piece, there is supposed to be a pin in there that locks into the second groove in the 90 on the left side of the picture. The bummer is that nobody that's open on Sunday carries anything like this. I guess I'll have to haggle with Summit about a replacement, meanwhile my truck is sitting in the barn and I'm driving the In-Laws Honda.
Bad90.jpg

Wow, that could have been a disaster! Imagine if it wouldn't have popped off until you were on the highway! Unless you're starring at the PSI gauge, there's almost no way to know you've lost oil. The only warning would be a small, yellow warning light that comes on - it's in between the tach and speedo and says "check gauges". It's not very bright at all and if there's any sun glare at all, you'll never see it. You can probably guess why I know so much about that... Now I have a BRIGHT red warning light mounted to the right of the dash pod.

I'd be surprised if Summit gave you any hassle. I've always had good experiences with them when returning - whether it's my fault or theirs.

Good luck!
 
I called Summit today and they said they would ship one out no problem. I am like you Dennis that could have been mucho disaster. I don't know how much luck you would have telling Summit they owe you an engine because of the failure of a $15 part.
 
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