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Remote fuel filter

M

mr.clopek

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Want to install remote fuel filter on 93 6.5
What is procedure to access or remove inlet fuel fitting on back of db2 pump
Remove intake or some form of crows foot?
What goes on once factory fitting is off?
AN fitting?
Thanks for any advice/info
mr.clopek
 
mr.clopek said:
Want to install remote fuel filter on 93 6.5
What is procedure to access or remove inlet fuel fitting on back of db2 pump
Remove intake or some form of crows foot?
What goes on once factory fitting is off?
AN fitting?
Thanks for any advice/info
mr.clopek
Click to expand...
If you're there, it would be a good time to install a permanent fuel pressure gauge
 
mr.clopek said:
Could but want to use a an with push loc
Looking for info to remove fitting from pump looks like I may remove intake to do a good job job!
Thanks
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum Mr. Clopek.

Intakes is not a bad job to get removed.
If You could do some test fitting and then get an AN swivel fitting that has the port with 1/8th inch pipe threads, then, screw jnto that port a barb fitting, run out a remote hose and install another barb fitting into that end of the hose, then the option is in place to install a fuel pressure gauge at any time without having to remove the intake again.
 
Like that idea of gauge!
Also had another option maybe.
I have left over parts off 82 Chevy Luv 4 cyl. Diesel thinking I could use the fuel filter housing off that and make bracket to mount a remote filter the micron rating on that wix filter 33128 is 10 micron and rating on factory replacement wix 33976 for 6.5 is 14
All I need to do is buy some fittings and intake gaskets!
Right now my original fuel housing is leaking out bottom either pin hole or fuel past wires.
 
mr.clopek said:
Like that idea of gauge!
Also had another option maybe.
I have left over parts off 82 Chevy Luv 4 cyl. Diesel thinking I could use the fuel filter housing off that and make bracket to mount a remote filter the micron rating on that wix filter 33128 is 10 micron and rating on factory replacement wix 33976 for 6.5 is 14
All I need to do is buy some fittings and intake gaskets!
Right now my original fuel housing is leaking out bottom either pin hole or fuel past wires.
Click to expand...
Fairly common for those hoses to rupture and leak too.
Leroy Diesel does sell O-Ring/seal kits for the FFM.
He also sells the feed the beast kits that can be installed onto Your FFM.
I built a bracket for the FFM on My truck. Brought the hose nipples above the intake manifold and turned it 90* so that the IP and water drain nipples point to the left side. Also had a hose made up for the oil pressure sending unit. Extended that to the stud out of the fire wall where the hood light wires anchors to. Also added the swivel fitting and came from the IP with an extension hose and have the fuel pressure gauge mounted remote so if that sending unit ever fails it is out where I can get to it without removal of the intake manifold.
Oh yeah, one other addition, well two.
That way too short of a ground wire connected to the IP for the PMD harness. I clipped, stripped the ends and added in several inches of the same gauge wire so that wire terminal fitting can be extended out to the right side of the intake manifold. Make it at least a foot long splice. Then that terminal is no longer a struggle to reach if You ever need to switch to another of the remote extension harnesses that should be added from under the front bumper.
The longer engine harness is something else I added so that the engine harness can be laid out above the intake manifold.
Right now the only thing that laid in under the intake manifold is that steel return to tank fuel pipe and I dont see that it could ever create a problem by being under the manifold.
 
Mine is a 93 it has the mechanical pump!
Just looking for info about omitting factory fuel filter assembly and going remote with spin on filter.
The one off my old Luv 4 cyl Isuzu also has a water drain.
Thanks for the info though!
 
Imo going to the Fass water separator is worth it. You can get just a spin on mount for that. Not knowing the other one you are looking at- just hope it works for you. The factory ffm has filter, a poor water separator, and a good fuel heater.
Depending on your location if you need a fuel heater at all.
Many people reuse the factory one and just mount it on the fender-well for accessibility.

With a crowsfoot & long extension you can remove the king nipple fitting from back of the ip. I do a piece of stainless steel tubing that would look similar to brake line to screw back in. Then the other end is beyond the intake so it is easy to reach and metal all the way. Then put on a T fitting there where you add the sending unit for the pressure gauge.

I’m really bad for “while you’re in there” so I will say: if you remove the intake manifold for access, you can remove the nose cone and drill & two it for 3/8” fitting or buy the one for the Ford db2 which is a 3/8” thread instead of the gm chocked down 5/16”.
 
Ok thank for your input
Now if I decide to put on a 4770 remote filter base as I like the port layout of this one as opposed to the one quad star or diesel site has and can anyone tell me me will the wix 33005 filter work ok ? Looks like some of the filters with drains use a separate O ring to seal the nipple. This filter has a 3 micron rating ! Was surprised to see the factory filter rated at 14 !
 
The difference is nominal vs absolute. Absolute is NOTHING 14 and larger gets through. nominal is the average that gets through is 14 but could allow a certain percentage up to say 50. So make sure to find the spec difference of absolute & nominal.

The Fass water filter is an absolute stop on water. So fuel will flow through until it gets full of water and then the engine will shut off protecting everything.
The factory filter stops 2 teaspoons of water iirc.

Water does more damage to these pumps that dirt. When the systems were invented, we didn’t have methanol in the fuel. Methanol holds it’s own weight in water in suspension. So if you have the minimum 5% or its summer time you can have up to 10% methanol which can hold 10% water.
Thats the reason the cp pump lawsuits were lost- they were designed once the methanol (and therefore water) is known in it. But the same amount of water damages our pumps as it does the cp.
 
Will L. said:
Imo going to the Fass water separator is worth it. You can get just a spin on mount for that. Not knowing the other one you are looking at- just hope it works for you. The factory ffm has filter, a poor water separator, and a good fuel heater.
Depending on your location if you need a fuel heater at all.
Many people reuse the factory one and just mount it on the fender-well for accessibility.

With a crowsfoot & long extension you can remove the king nipple fitting from back of the ip. I do a piece of stainless steel tubing that would look similar to brake line to screw back in. Then the other end is beyond the intake so it is easy to reach and metal all the way. Then put on a T fitting there where you add the sending unit for the pressure gauge.

I’m really bad for “while you’re in there” so I will say: if you remove the intake manifold for access, you can remove the nose cone and drill & two it for 3/8” fitting or buy the one for the Ford db2 which is a 3/8” thread instead of the gm chocked down 5/16”.
Click to expand...
I never heard mention of the Ford part before. Do you have a part number?
 
No I do not have the part number. @Rockabillyrat might have it or might even have a couple on hand he might sell?

I wanna say 1983-94 6.9 diesel was the years they ran the db2.
I never bought the part myself, I always had a “pump guy” that I could just call in the past.
And same thing this time when Rockabillyrat built my current db2.
 
Welcome @mr.clopek One thing to watch out for... what is your climate like were you drive? if it snows often in the winter then you might want to keep the factory FFM or get something that has a built in fuel heater. the FFM has an element that keeps fuel from gelling. you only need it for the first few minutes until the engine is up to temp, but it's there for that reason.

I live in the southern end of the US and it gets darn well near feeling like hell's front porch in the summer time and then we get maybe a full month of real winter here! I used a chineesium special remote filter on my 95 mounted on the firewall up near the trans dipstick tube so I could reach it! re-routed all the rubber hose out from under the intake away from the engine heat. No fuel heater needed in my area. on my 93 I simply moved the factory FFM over to the captain's inner fender up by the master cylinder. extended the wire harness for the water sensor and fuel heater, put a short hose on the drain with a valve that dangles over the steering suspension area where I can get a soda bottle to when I am draining and changing filters.

there is lots of things you can do to remote mount the filter, but the key is filtration. GM from the factory iirc used a 15-20 micron filter. that still allows fine things like sand and other particulates past the filter. running a 2 micron filter will catch dam near all things but will also clog up faster especially if you fill up with a bad batch of fuel. so filtration is kinda a double edge sword there in that aspect. I would say go with a finer filter like a 2-5 micron to keep your IP happier. just install a fuel pressure gauge after the filter so you know when things get bad.

if you want to get fancy, get you a single gauge and two pressure sending units. wire it all up to a toggle switch in the cab so you can flip from pre-filter to post-filter. watching those two numbers can easily tell you when it's time to replace filters along with diagnosing a failing lift pump.

BTW your running a mechanical LP.... they are well known when they fail, they push fuel into the crank case. they still pump just fine but will eventually wash out the bearings and cause major issues. you will notice this by checking the oil and realizing your making oil rather than using it LOL
 
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