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Rebuild Parts

chevyCowboy

chevyCowboy

I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
Messages
1,659
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122
Location
Springfield Nebraska
Im going to have almost 2 weeks off over christmas and want to try and get my truck close to or running again while im off.

Who has the best rebuild kit?
i want to drop the compression around 18 or 19:1. this can be done with pistons, thicker head gaskets... which way is best?
Where to buy Block Girdles?
Heads, have to see what they are like when i get there maybe some machine work.
Depending how block looks maybe some machine work there as well
will be buying new injectors, marine or new bosch?
60g glowplugs
maybe have IP rebuilt
possibly new injector lines had a leak some where not sure if it was a line or what
Any thing im forgeting?
I hopeing i will get the HE351 in as well
i want to build it as strong and reliable as i can
This is my first real motor build (other than helping my dad when i was 10 rebuild a v6 in his cavalier) and all the help from this vast knowledge base we have he is greatly appricated.
Thanks
 
a buddy did a rebuild on his and with new heads from SSD and he had to have the block bored over he said he spent less than 2k iv got that and some more saved but i really just want to do it right and not cut any corners
 
X2 on Norther Auto Parts. I've used them several times. They are knowlegable and courtious, and the shipping is fast! Two days and it's on my door step!

I think that it was decided that Mahle does still make the 18:1's but they did discontinue a peticular part number or something of that nature.

Over on one of the other sites(the page, I believe) there were some pics of a girdle that a guy made. Really nice looking thing too. It required a different oil pan, but was similar to what the new P400 engine has. A memeber or two was going to try and contact the guy who made it to see if he'd make another one, but I don't know how that ever turned out.

I think that 2 weeks is pretty tight on time. If your machine shop is backed up or if you end up waiting for anything to show up you could run past your deadline. I'd make sure you've got some alternative transportation in case it doesn't go the way you plan. Or wait until you have more time to work with. Just my $0.02
 
its getting pulled this weekend and hopefully toren down so i know what im dealing with. Iv got my old beter gas burner to drive but i just dont like it.
 
x2 on considering the Scat crank. It's not forged, but better qual material than the original - had I been aware the Scat was available for a reasonable price, think I would have gone that route on mine.

The Fluidampr is also worth considering. I figure the cost comparison is really btwn the cost of a new OEM rubber damper or the Fluidampr - unless you've already replaced your crank damper recently.

I'd definitely go with a heavier engine stand. Once the heads are pulled, it's not excessively heavy, but if a stand ever failed or tipped, that would make for a bad day.

With Northern, you definitely want to confirm when placing the order, when you'll get it. In recent years, they've gone to stocking much less & drop shipping from either a bigger warehouse or the manufacturer. In some cases, they have minimum orders with their supplier & I've had to wait a few weeks because they took my order - then made their order with the supplier 2 weeks after my order.

2 weeks is possible, but I wouldn't plan a hard deadline, at least not until everything's pulled apart & inspected so you know what needs to be done. On the cyl bores, check the degree of ridge & then for thrust side wear/out of round.
 
I jus bought an engine stand from harbor freight for my six five I bought the 2000 pounder I think rite now they're on sale for a 100 bucks I jus wasn't gonna chance it with the 1000 pound stand. You may wanna put some grease on the tube that spins it I had to use a cheater bar to turn the dang engine over lol or have someone lift of on the front of the engine to get it to turn lol. Those stands will work fine for somethin lyk this wouldn't wanna use one everyday tho.
 
i just got to thinking about this is there a good rebuild manaul will all the tourq specs and what not out there for these the chiltons manual has some but i would like amore indepth resource.
 
I ended up getting 3 different resources: factory shop manual, Army/AirForce/Marines Technical Manual, & the Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual.

The factory manual is best, but somewhat expensive & aren't always written in the most straight forward way - I find after using a few of the GM shop manuals for a while, you become more accustomed to their specific writing style & interpreting things gets quicker the more you work w/ GM manuals of a given era.

The military manual can be found for free, or cheap download on ebay. There's a link on one of the 6.5 forums where you can find it to download free, can't recall which forum I saw the link on - but the search function should find it. The military manual is a bit more straight forward, sometimes even rudimentary in their stepwise instructions. It covers 6.2, 6.5, & 6.5 turbo military engines.

The Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual covers Both these GM diesels: 5.7, 6.2, & 6.5; and the Ford 6.9, 7.3, & Powerstroke 7.3. I typically find the Haynes manuals written in the the most straightforward way. The limitation w/ this manual is that it covers this range of GM diesels & a range of the Ford 6.9/7.3's - so it's not purely GM focused. There's also a good number of pages devoted to troubleshooting WIF &/or inj pump issues. One highspot Haynes did reasonably well was desribe GM's select fit method of choosing which upper & lower bearing shells to use to get the right oil clearance.

In essence, there was enough variability crank production that they had a small selection of different thickness upper & lower bearing shells - both for the rods & the mains. They selected the best combination of top shell dimension & bottom shell dimension (sometimes different than top shell) to get the oil clearance in spec. The Haynes Diesel manual has a couple tables showing this on pg 4-33. Understanding GM's "Select Fit' size ranges & color coding - you can interpret the markings on the backs of your original bearings.

When I pull one apart, I put some effort into writing which bearing was where, etc. So if you find any odd wear patterns, knowing which bearing was where can be helpful in figuring out what causes the weird wear pattern & how to correct it.
 
got most every thing disconected today and i was wondering am i going to have to move the NV4500 back to get the motor out? I had planed to take tranny loose from bell housing (the bolts are much easier to get at then the bell housing to block bolts). is the only fuel line i have to take loose the rubber line going in to the Filter Manager?
 
On my '95, fuel feed & return lines (slightly to the driver's side) were attached to those bellhousing bolts w/ a smaller stud top & nut. They can be a royal pain when the top nut doesn't turn off (so you get the line clamps off the top) but instead holds on & turns the entire bolt. If memory serves, there is a wire or two attached to the same type bolt/w/ stud on top on the passenger side.

I ended up using one of those Gearwrench type ratcheting box-ends with the hinging end, to get those bolt/studs out. If you've got similar lines & wires connected to the bellhousing bolts, they'll have to be dealt with before pulling the engine. Can't recall for certain, but the clutch slave cyl hydraulic line may also be held on by those bolt/studs. The bolt/studs added too much time to pulling my engine, so before the engine went back in, I took Robyn's lead & rerouted the fuel lines (there's a thread on this) & other stuff so nothing remains attached to the studs on top of the bellhousing bolts.

With the fan, fan shroud, & rad out of the way, I split it at the engine/bellhousing, removed the through bolt holding the engine & frame side motor mounts, & wiggled the engine up/forward/ & over the frame side motor mounts. Clearance is limited enough that I tore up the old dried up & fragile firewall sound insulation. If you could get at & remove the 3 bolts holding each frame side motor mount, you can slide things forward further before the engine has to go up. That might avoid hitting the firewall insulation as much. Using a load leveler btwn the engine & hoist allows more easily adjusting the engine's tilt which can help a bit - particularly if you're working alone.
 
thanks darrin
iv had the tranny out once before and i dont recall if i but all those brackets back on or not some i might have and others just got stuck back over the bolt
I think im going to try and take the bell housing with the motor and shove the tranny back some

where should i dissconect the return line so that i can get engine out? didnt really see any connections.

i planned on pulling it with the turbo and every thing that dosent have to come off for clearance should i take more stuff off?
 
On a side note why are you wanting to drop CR, Nebraska IIRC gets plenty cold in winter I suggest you think long and hard about lowered CR maybe talk to slim shady, he's in Detroit where winters are long and cold; and regrets lowering CR, I'm 10K shy of 200K on my truck at stock CR, and many hard miles put on the truck since I 1st bought it 2000 with only 36K on it, no issues; I think lowered CR is more work than most need to be worrying about.
 
i was hopeing to be able to run higher boost pressure out of my he351 and it was my understanding that lowering the CR makes that safer. i gave up on the 18:1 i was thinkng more around 19. stock is 21:1 correct thought i rememberd reading that.
 
On mine, the injector spill lines connect to that metal line across the front. The pump return line plumbs in, then this consolidated metal return line runs back under the intake, sort of along the line of the block/head interface on the passenger side. The return hose connects to that line somewhere under the fuel mgr.

My engine turned out right around 19:1 and it's started fine down to 10 degrees F. chevydiesel suggested the additional point (above 18:1) in static compression makes for a little better starting, which makes sense & was my reason for the compromise.

It is important to note I've done a few things to try compensate for less compression heat to get things firing: manual glow time extension (& plugs that will reliably tolerate longer than stock glow times), Powermaster starter, 1-0 batt cables, & top-notch AGM 880 CCA batteries.

Not trying to discourage or promote lowering compression. Just putting how my engine's working, out there as a datapoint for others considering lowering comp ratio. It's not for everyone as it requires some additional thought & working knowledge make it work well. Without a solid starting system, etc., it would cause issues.

The glow extension & good plugs seems to be key for a clean start on my 19:1 engine. Without glow time extension, I think it would exhibit issues similar to what Slim mentions.

Had a plug die a couple weeks ago. Truck still started fine at 15 degrees F, but the cylinder w/ bad plug took over 5 seconds to begin firing cleanly - which causes the blue-ish white exhaust show until it was firing cleanly. Swapped in an old, but functional glow plug & the issue was fixed.

Swapped in Bosch Duraterms this morning for GP's that should be more reliable tolerating the longer glow times. Now it's taking me a bit to figure out how to get the connector back on that plug directly behind the downpipe (may have to pull the DP).

I'd stated earlier the failed plug was a WAP, but was mistaken. That set were Delphi's - so they possibly don't tolerate longer glow times well. When I've got things buttoned back up & running, I'll test them to see how functional they were.
 
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