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Rebuild for a performance oriented 6.5

2)Apparently I have more time than the person that was going to pull my engine. He never did it and I've freed up some time, so I went and got the truck and pulled the engine on the 4th. Other than having a hoist that lost a wheel and having the engine and hoist almost fall on me with the engine 5' in the air, it came out relatively easy. But aside from a scratch on my shoulder and a dented oil pan, everything survived the fall. Moral of that story is to never let anyone borrow your stuff...

But pulling the engine showed me my first obstacle with the centermount. The transmission dipstick tube runs right through where the exhaust routes. I'm assuming the easy fix to that would be to get a dipstick tube from a 6.5 van? If so, anyone have one laying around they want to get rid of??

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3)I installed the oil cooler lines, I have the pump set in place and half the injectors installed. After I pulled the injectors, I decided to pull the head on the old engine to see if I could see any damage. I thought maybe the piston could have come apart where I have the valve spring break and the valve was beating on the piston. But all was well. It does look, however, that there are some signs of antifreeze possibly getting into the cylinders. Especially number 1. The piston top looks awfully clean compared to the others. But no obvious damage on that side of the engine. I still have to flip the engine and pull the other injectors out, so I'll probably pull that head too. And since the engine is locked up, I'll probably have to pull the pan to get the crank out so I can get the torque converter off. So I'm sure I will find the culprit fairly easy once the pan comes off. But that is where I'm at.

I also bought a new crank sensor (I run that for my tach signal for the transmission controller) and new glow plugs. Which reminds me of another thing I need; a new glow plug harness. The wiring is brittle and most of the ends are either rusted and coming apart or are already broken off. I will also have to change the location of the glow plug controller bc I think it will be too close to the exhaust and turbo as well. That giant wiring harness that crosses the back of the engine will also have to be slightly moved. I plan to clean up the wiring and do away with anything I don't need now that it's mechanical, so hopefully some of that wiring will be obsolete and I can get rid of it.


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I don't know of any RTV that can take 1100 - 1550 degrees. Usually the manifolds go on without gaskets and depend on the soot coming out of the engine to seal them up. Interesting it's use on the oil filter adapter... maybe that will stop them from leaking :D
We've used rtv on virtually all exhaust manifolds since I worked at an exhaust shop. I've yet to have a rtv seal fail in a manifold/header. I actually had an exhaust leak on the manifold on my old engine where the gasket blew out. I took rtv and a small pick and pushed the rtv into the hole, let it dry, and wah-lah, never leaked again until its final running day.

The rtv on the oil filter adapter was in part bc of the never ending leak there, and also bc every parts store around here only sells a seal kit for those and not a one of them had a seal in it that fit that upper section. So rtv it is lol.


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I don't recall you running cast manifolds....where did those come from??
I originally was going to build my own manifolds from the hummer headers, but lack of time and my welding skills, or lack of welding skills, forced me to go this route. I wasn't happy with anything I was coming up with on them and I was tired of cutting and rewelding. And I figured it would be all it impossible to have someone else build them without taking them the engine to build them on. So I cut my losses and went with a slightly easier route. No cutting and welding of these manifolds. Just a few cuts and welds on the up pipes and it was done. Still far from pretty, but they are functional.


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The manifolds are from a factory centermount setup. But the up pipes are garbage for those (they are sheet metal thin) and I would have to fab my own turbo flange and adapter to the up pipes, so I figured I would just make an entire new up pipe setup rather than trying to use the useless factory ones.


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2)Apparently I have more time than the person that was going to pull my engine. He never did it and I've freed up some time, so I went and got the truck and pulled the engine on the 4th. Other than having a hoist that lost a wheel and having the engine and hoist almost fall on me with the engine 5' in the air, it came out relatively easy. But aside from a scratch on my shoulder and a dented oil pan, everything survived the fall. Moral of that story is to never let anyone borrow your stuff...

But pulling the engine showed me my first obstacle with the centermount. The transmission dipstick tube runs right through where the exhaust routes. I'm assuming the easy fix to that would be to get a dipstick tube from a 6.5 van? If so, anyone have one laying around they want to get rid of??

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Yeah, as a general rule I have stopped loaning out tools.....unless it's someone that I know will take care of the tool, and/or if something does go wrong will take care of the problem or at the very least let me know there's a problem. It's an unfortunate reality and I hate being that way, but I'm busy enough as it is, that when I need to do something I can't/don't want to waste time fixing a tool because of somebody else's carelessness or lack of thoughtfulness. You were lucky that the only casualty was the oil pan!
 
So the other night I started rereading this thread from the beginning. I started out looking for a picture but ended up skimming through everything just to kind of see what all we've talked about and how things have progressed over the last TWO YEARS lol.

Anyway, while reading some of the comments I posted replying to some of you guys with suggestions or questions, I realize that some of them come across as kind of a$$hole-ish. When I responded, I didn't mean for them to come out like that, and everyone might not take them that way, but reading through them now, I can see how they could be taken that way. So I want to clear that up. If I responded to any of you and it seemed like I was being an ass, it was unintentional and not meant to sound that way. I appreciate all the info and suggestions you all put out there. I know there are things that we all have different ideas or opinions on, but I really take all the ideas/suggestions/opinions in and it all really does help. There's a lot of smart people here with a lot of great info, so I don't want anyone to feel like I'm brushing you off and end up losing some of the great input I get from you guys. I really do appreciate it all!


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So the other night I started rereading this thread from the beginning. I started out looking for a picture but ended up skimming through everything just to kind of see what all we've talked about and how things have progressed over the last TWO YEARS lol.

Anyway, while reading some of the comments I posted replying to some of you guys with suggestions or questions, I realize that some of them come across as kind of a$$hole-ish. When I responded, I didn't mean for them to come out like that, and everyone might not take them that way, but reading through them now, I can see how they could be taken that way. So I want to clear that up. If I responded to any of you and it seemed like I was being an ass, it was unintentional and not meant to sound that way. I appreciate all the info and suggestions you all put out there. I know there are things that we all have different ideas or opinions on, but I really take all the ideas/suggestions/opinions in and it all really does help. There's a lot of smart people here with a lot of great info, so I don't want anyone to feel like I'm brushing you off and end up losing some of the great input I get from you guys. I really do appreciate it all!


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Some people are really good at expressing their thoughts in a way where both the content and the emotion are crystal-clear. This is a rare trait, and a trait I wish I possessed. I think the second-best way is to candidly say what you are thinking about yourself in hindsight, which you did. It's all good, Tim. I never got an a-hole vibe, but could definitely tell that you knew what you wanted and that you have proven yourself to be a smart dude that knew why you wanted it - this is exactly why I went to Conestoga with a target fuel rate of 120cc @ 3500rpm - because it worked for you! Now I can't wait to see this build come together so I know what to do next :D
 
I realize that some of them come across as kind of a$$hole-ish. When I responded, I didn't mean for them to come out like that, and everyone might not take them that way, but reading through them now, I can see how they could be taken that way. So I want to clear that up. If I responded to any of you and it seemed like I was being an ass, it was unintentional and not meant to sound that way.


LOL... I resemble that remark... most say that about my comments... I am too much of a perfectionist sometimes and I am guilty of voicing my opinion too much so I tend to not say anything anymore....
 
I plead Guilty.

Some kind of a wavy font on the entire sentence that starts out faint and gets super bold at the end...

My 11 year old was trying to close the dishwasher and a fork was holding the rack from sliding in. He didn't see what was wrong and my wife instructs him "USE YOUR EYES!" He bends over, closes his eyes and tryies pushing it in with his eyes and bridge of his nose...

Something new like this nearly daily.
Yup, I am contagious. We should change our family name to "the great Sarcasmos"...
 
I'm glad it didn't seem to bother most of you, just wanted to clear the air either way.

My all thread showed up today so hopefully I can finish the passenger side manifold and do a final test fit with everything. Since I have the old engine now, I pulled the turbo and everything off of it already and am going to basically have the entire system bolted on prior to installing the engine to make sure everything will fit how it's supposed to on the engine before setting it in. Just in case something doesn't quite work and I have to modify something.

I am rerouting the fuel deliver/return to the driver side instead of out the back of the valley due to the exhaust being right there. I'll have the supply come into the valley between the number 5 and 7 intake ports and up and over the driver side valve cover. I'll move my fuel filter somewhere on that side of the engine bay and then run it down from there. The return line is being routed across the front of the engine, along the driver side and then down from there as well.

I also got all the injectors and new glow plugs installed. I am working on the new wiring for the glow plugs and getting that routed the way I want it right now. The relay is still mounting at the back of the engine, it's mounted high enough that it will be out of the way of the exhaust. The wiring to the glow plugs will be ran up the driver side between the valve cover and intake. The passenger side will cross over at the front in the same place the fuel return is routed. I have the driver side done, just need to finish the passenger side. The work is going a little slower because my 1 1/2 and 5 year old wanted to help this morning. My wife was less than thrilled about the greasy hands/clothes, but hey, if you're not getting dirty then you're not having fun. Or at least that's how I see it....
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I'm glad it didn't seem to bother most of you, just wanted to clear the air either way.

My all thread showed up today so hopefully I can finish the passenger side manifold and do a final test fit with everything. Since I have the old engine now, I pulled the turbo and everything off of it already and am going to basically have the entire system bolted on prior to installing the engine to make sure everything will fit how it's supposed to on the engine before setting it in. Just in case something doesn't quite work and I have to modify something.

I am rerouting the fuel deliver/return to the driver side instead of out the back of the valley due to the exhaust being right there. I'll have the supply come into the valley between the number 5 and 7 intake ports and up and over the driver side valve cover. I'll move my fuel filter somewhere on that side of the engine bay and then run it down from there. The return line is being routed across the front of the engine, along the driver side and then down from there as well.

I also got all the injectors and new glow plugs installed. I am working on the new wiring for the glow plugs and getting that routed the way I want it right now. The relay is still mounting at the back of the engine, it's mounted high enough that it will be out of the way of the exhaust. The wiring to the glow plugs will be ran up the driver side between the valve cover and intake. The passenger side will cross over at the front in the same place the fuel return is routed. I have the driver side done, just need to finish the passenger side. The work is going a little slower because my 1 1/2 and 5 year old wanted to help this morning. My wife was less than thrilled about the greasy hands/clothes, but hey, if you're not getting dirty then you're not having fun. Or at least that's how I see it....
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It's looking good and I like the sound of your rerouting - I can't wait to see the final results of those changes. Fun seeing your kids getting in on the action, too!
 
Updates!

Exhaust manifolds are both bolted down, all the glow plug wiring is done, crank sensor is in and I was able to bolt the intake and all the centermount turbo pieces up to check everything.

Two things I am changing from factory: 1) I am going to run the oil feed line from the valley where the oil pressure switch normally is. I did this hoping I could use the factory line, but it won't work. The braided line won't twist quite enough to work. I was able to hook it up, but it twists it too much and kinked the line. So I am making my own oil line but will still be running it from the valley. I got all the parts to complete that today.

2) I am running the oil pressure switch where the turbo oil feed line normally runs. I am doing that bc of the reason mentioned above, but also it will be easier to get to if it ever fails. I am going to plumb in a pipe to extend it up above the head so it won't be in the way of the accessories so it should be easily gotten to even with everything on the engine. I got everything to install it today as well.

My original plan for my oil return line isn't going to work. I got Leroy's return hose and planned to use it. I figured the hose that comes with the kit wouldn't be long enough and might have to get a longer piece made, but that wasn't the only issue. The piece that bolts to the turbo hits on the housing. So it's a no go. So now I am deciding between two options. First, I thought I would just cut the factory oil return tube shorter and use the first few inches of it to mount to the turbo and then figure out a way to connect it to a longer hose from Leroy. Or I found a flange for the hx35 housing that has a 1/2" female pipe thread on it that I could then connect a hydraulic line to and then connect that to the hose I already have from Leroy's kit, or just use the hydraulic hose for the entire length and see if I can find a fitting to connect it to the fitting that bolts to the engine from Leroy's kit. I prefer one single hose with only the two end connections to reduce the risk of leaks, but we'll see.

Also, the return hose will have to run between the turbo and intake to the passenger side and then down the passenger side of the engine. This seems to be the shortest and best route. I originally thought I would run it on the passenger side between the intake and valve cover and then down the front of the engine, but I don't think that gives me enough continuous slope to keep the oil drained well enough, especially during the cold months on start up. Plus I think the way I plan to run it keeps everything a little less congested on top of the engine.

All of my wire loom and clamps showed up today too. So hopefully I can get all of the glow plug wiring in the loom and clamped down for a nice clean look. I also plan to go through all of the wiring on the back of the engine and do away with all the unnecessary wiring and wire loom/clamp whatever is left. Other than that, it is nearly ready to drop into the truck and see how well it's going to fit. Once it's in I'll have to build a new turbo exhaust flange/down pipe since the original one I made will not work bc of the new location. But I don't think that should be too big of a deal.


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One other thing I figured I would share since I've shared everything else with this build. It was stupid and careless on my part, but it was a lesson learned. Remember those pictures of my kids "helping" with the engine? Well, I forgot that I hadn't installed the crank sensor yet. I figured there was nothing they could do to hurt anything since the engine is essentially done and buttoned up.

Well....at some point my son found the crank sensor hole and also happened to find a bolt small enough to stick in it... What's worse is that I could have still been in the clear, but when I went to install the crank sensor, it wouldn't go in. So instead of shining a light in the hole to see if there was an issue, I stuck my finger in it and hit the bolt just right. Fell right down into the oil pan. Of course I couldn't get it out of the drain plug hole. So I had to spend a good chunk of my evening last night pulling the oil pan, getting the bolt out and then cleaning everything up and resealing the pan.

So lesson learned! Don't let my kids pick up random things and stick in my engine lol.


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I also forgot to mention that I am most likely going back to the stock upper intake instead of the one I made for the intercooler. The way the turbo sits now, I'll be running the intercooler opposite of how I did before. The turbo will be feeding the intercooler from the driver side and then the charge will come into the engine from the passenger side. The stock intake should work pretty well for that. It squishes down pretty good right at the entrance to the lower intake, but I think it should be ok.

Also, one other thing I didn't mention that I still need to do is drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer. I don't remember the size of the tap and I have no clue where it is, so I'll probably have to take the fitting to the parts store to find the right one.


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I do not, been considering one to use as the intake for the turbo. But it should have plenty of room without one. It might be pretty tight on a stock truck, but with my 3" body lift it *should* have plenty of room.


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Some ideas , drill a hole in the block above the lifters for the oil return or get another right side valve cover and use the breather hole for return or use an older oil pump drive and return to where the vacuum pod is mounted .
 
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