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Rear Suspension Options

The air bags unload the springs, so the ride isn't more stiff. On my 3500 it is a much nicer ride, without the bags I'm on the overloads.
 
Quick update - I called a local spring shop: they want $ 750 for new rear springs, installed. Just springs they are $ 300/each.
Personally, that seems like a lot. I found some online (sdtruckspring) for around $ 150/each... that's for the heavier ones. It appears the 1500 and 2500 are the same dimensions, as someone stated before.

I'm leaning more toward getting 2500 springs, but not if I need to pay $ 750...
And I'm curious to see how much height they would add to my current setup?

I mentioned before that I've got around 5-1/2" in the front and 5" in the back measured from the bottom of the fender flare to the top of the tire (265/75/16's). Anyone else with a suburban feel like measuring to compare?
 
I think he's looking for a measurement on his body style for a comparison.

Ours is a '94 K1500, but I have 2" blocks in the back, so it's not a good candidate to get a measurement for you. I really can't recall if I raised the front or not.

It had the sagging rear look, just like every other one out there. I do believe it's an optical illusion because I think the front wheel well openings are cut higher than the rears. I measured at the frame when we bought it (no blocks), from the ground and it was basically level. It only appears to sag, but I don't prefer the look, so every one I've ever had has gotten a small block in the rear to over come this.
 
I have a 2001 2500 hd 4x4 6.0 . What do you need me to measure exactly?

Is it a suburban? If so, basically the difference in height from the top of the tire to the fender.

Looking at pictures of stock trucks (suspension-wise) it looks like the trucks tend to sit 1-2" higher in the back.
The suburbans (stock) look like they sit pretty much level. If they sit level, I don't feel too bad about my situation. If they sit 1-2" higher than the front, my springs are sagging much more than I originally thought! (1-1/2" to 2-1/2" versus 1/2" to 1-1/2" as I originally thought)

On a side note: someday in the near future I'd like to lift the truck an 1"-2"... so if I could incorporate that somehow that'd be nice too. As long as I have to buy springs or something...
 
I think he's looking for a measurement on his body style for a comparison.

Ours is a '94 K1500, but I have 2" blocks in the back, so it's not a good candidate to get a measurement for you. I really can't recall if I raised the front or not.

It had the sagging rear look, just like every other one out there. I do believe it's an optical illusion because I think the front wheel well openings are cut higher than the rears. I measured at the frame when we bought it (no blocks), from the ground and it was basically level. It only appears to sag, but I don't prefer the look, so every one I've ever had has gotten a small block in the rear to over come this.

Interesting, I never thought about the wheel wells being different.
Is your '94 a suburban? If so, can you post any pics? (I didn't see it in your garage...)
 
Wow, I wonder how mine will look when its the right height? :)

I talked to a local shop, they had the springs for $ 265/each and install around $ 200. He said if I can get them online for $ 150/each he would install them and include labor/u-bolts for $ 200. That doesn't seem bad for an install price (including hardware), but it might be a job I could tackle myself and save some money... It doesn't seem like it would be too difficult, especially considering its a southern truck and not rusted to pieces.

Any thoughts? Personal experience changing them out?
 
Wow, I wonder how mine will look when its the right height? :)

I talked to a local shop, they had the springs for $ 265/each and install around $ 200. He said if I can get them online for $ 150/each he would install them and include labor/u-bolts for $ 200. That doesn't seem bad for an install price (including hardware), but it might be a job I could tackle myself and save some money... It doesn't seem like it would be too difficult, especially considering its a southern truck and not rusted to pieces.

Any thoughts? Personal experience changing them out?
Does that include the top spring? The lower ones are simple with no need for messing with the bushings. If you're changing the top spring also, then the bushing might be a challenge because even though it's a southern vehicle, the bushing could still be rusted in.
 
Does that include the top spring? The lower ones are simple with no need for messing with the bushings. If you're changing the top spring also, then the bushing might be a challenge because even though it's a southern vehicle, the bushing could still be rusted in.

Yes, that would be for the whole leaf spring assembly. (6: 5/1) If I get new springs I'll order the 2500 springs 6:5/1 (2900 lbs capacity) instead of the 1500 springs 5:4/1 (2200 lbs capacity).
 
Quick update about what I decided to do:

I couldn't decide what to do - I had great reasons for the springs, and great reasons for the airbags. I just pulled the trigger on the airbags to do SOMETHING. Got the kit from SDTruckSprings for $300 with a $ 50 rebate. It could have been easier to install; the bump stops had to come off and they were riveted on. Ended up getting frustrated and just hacking the one to pieces (much quicker that I thought it would be). Had about 5 hours into the install.

I'm really happy with the setup. About 15 psi in the bags raises the bag about 1", 40 psi about 2". Looks MUCH better with the back at the right height and 2" wheel spacers... add that with a wash and she was looking pretty sharp yesterday.

As far as towing goes it obviously sits higher (after airing to about 60 psi) - pulled a 2000 lb trailer with 3,500 lbs trailer about 20 miles. Still bounces around a lot, but that's because my air shocks leak so they don't do anything. That's another project.

Thanks for all of the input!
 
With the bags on now I would loose the air shock and get some bilstiens. You'll love that ride.

I figured I'd try and find the leak, but the more I think about it the more I want to chuck them and get different ones that I don't need to worry about air leaks... I'll check into the Bilstiens.

Now I just need to make sure I get the right ones! (1500 vs. 2500 etc/etc...:))
 
I have Bilsteins ons my 95 GMC, and I love them, a more secure ride, firm, but not harsh, and still smooth. hard to explain, but it makes you feel safer towing heavy. I got the heavier valved ones, they offer a lighter rate that you may look into for burb use.

as far as appearance, that is one reason I love 2wds, front and rear axles track the same, no goofy stuck out front end. and they usually have more of a "rake" than 4wds. :)
 
Bilstein's just ordered per recommendations - thanks guys :)

I jumped up and down on the rear bumper yesterday and it was like jumping on a trampoline... no wonder the ride sucks, especially with a trailer...

And I can't get over how much better the truck looks with the rear end where it is supposed to be and tires even with the front!!
 
Bilstein's installed yesterday (I wish all projects on this truck were that easy). Only minor setback was my 2 year old running off with the light while I've got a bolt in one hand holding the shock up with the other :)

I am an idiot for not doing this sooner. The truck always used to wander on the highway, I figured it was because the steering was loose. I'm sure the steering is part of the problem, but it tracks so much better on the highway now... and I don't bounce after I hit bumps anymore.

Thanks for all of the recommendations on springs/shocks/bags/spacers - I think I've finally got the rear suspension where it needs to be!
 
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