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Rear spacers OK to use? 1993 K3500, need to widen the track out back

Sentinelist

Sentinelist

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North Texas
See signature for why (re: big camper), but I'm hoping to bring them out safely a couple inches. If it's OK for my rig, what brand? Recommendations?
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
http://www.wheeladapter.com/dually_spacers.php

I would ONLY run the fred's billet steel spacers. Nothing wrong with running them, but I would not use aluminum if you plan on putting alot of weight down on them.
Click to expand...

Makes sense (re: steel), those are the ones I'll probably go with. Just due to the weight of the truck and camper, and probability of some light off-road work, I need just about the best available. These definitely aren't for show on a 1500! Thanks
 
Call this a dumb question, but I don't know the answer. So here goes:
When you buy wheel adapters (example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pc-8-Lug-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a838384cb&vxp=mtr)

1) Do you use the nuts they supply to bolt the adapter to the rotor/studs, and use your stock lug nuts to bolt the wheel to the adapter?
2) Or do you use your lug nuts to bolt the adapter to the rotor/studs, and use their nuts to bolt the wheel to the adapter?

If #2, then how do my center caps reattach to the wheel? The little black "nuts" need to screw over the outside threads on the lug nut, but if the adapter comes with new nuts that don't have this outside thread, then what?

If #1, how do I know if the thread size they put on the adapter studs is the same as the studs I've got on my truck? (if they are different than obviously #1 is not possible, unless you use a lot of force :))
 
You use the nuts that come with them to atatch the spacers to the axle, and then your lugnuts to atatch the wheel since they are required for the lugnuts.
 
Just ordered them today and got a tracking number- I'll post thoughts next week. I did provide them the specs on my truck as requested by them, so I'm not expecting any issues.
 
Just got mine mounted up Monday night- talk about beefy! I'm used to working with smaller 20mm spacers for European cars. They certainly feel and look stout, and I'm glad I went with these over aluminum for my load. The rear wheels are damn near perfectly flush and matching with the front wheels in their wells now- I absolutely love the look. But mainly these are intended to provide the widened stance and lower center of gravity to further balance my tall hardside truck camper. The truck drives with even more stability and better handling than before- I could tell it felt better the moment I turned out of my driveway. Imagine the feeling of a dually- it's close to that. I did a quick test drive around town and up to 70mph on the highway with and without the camper and felt no vibrations or loss of confidence- rock solid.

Yeah, these are pretty pricey- I'm still almost balking at what I paid (nearly $400). But if you've got serious loads and a 'skinny' track on the back, these do wonders. And looks awesome to boot. Highly recommended, at least so far- I have not taken the rig off-road, but it'll be light work at that anyway without any serious challenges.

Install tip- they come shipped bolted together, annoyingly torqued up pretty good. You'll need to mount the whole assembly onto one of your hubs to use the studs for leverage, then take a wrench and break out the nuts fastening them together. Smaller nuts work on the same studs. You use your stock wheel nuts on the new spacer's studs. I had to break my wheels off my hubs with a little force and a piece of metal pipe- I used some WD-40 (maybe use something better) afterwards between the hubs and spacers, and then the spacers and wheels, to prevent any future seizing.
 
I put mine on earlier this week as well, and I agree - the look is great. Looks like it should!

I did opt for the aluminum ones, definitely could not have swung the $400 for steel. It is a little concerning, the fact that they are so light (alum) and stick out so far, but we'll see how it goes. I plan to pull off the wheels after a week or 2 and make sure everything is torqued down and looks ok.

Personally I didn't notice any difference in ride quality, but my rear shocks are shot so that's a more likely suspect.

Highly recommend them for anyone who is bothered by the look. The ones you get are up to you, but the look is perfect.
 
Sentinelist said:
Just got mine mounted up Monday night- talk about beefy! I'm used to working with smaller 20mm spacers for European cars. They certainly feel and look stout, and I'm glad I went with these over aluminum for my load. The rear wheels are damn near perfectly flush and matching with the front wheels in their wells now- I absolutely love the look. But mainly these are intended to provide the widened stance and lower center of gravity to further balance my tall hardside truck camper. The truck drives with even more stability and better handling than before- I could tell it felt better the moment I turned out of my driveway. Imagine the feeling of a dually- it's close to that. I did a quick test drive around town and up to 70mph on the highway with and without the camper and felt no vibrations or loss of confidence- rock solid.

Yeah, these are pretty pricey- I'm still almost balking at what I paid (nearly $400). But if you've got serious loads and a 'skinny' track on the back, these do wonders. And looks awesome to boot. Highly recommended, at least so far- I have not taken the rig off-road, but it'll be light work at that anyway without any serious challenges.

Install tip- they come shipped bolted together, annoyingly torqued up pretty good. You'll need to mount the whole assembly onto one of your hubs to use the studs for leverage, then take a wrench and break out the nuts fastening them together. Smaller nuts work on the same studs. You use your stock wheel nuts on the new spacer's studs. I had to break my wheels off my hubs with a little force and a piece of metal pipe- I used some WD-40 (maybe use something better) afterwards between the hubs and spacers, and then the spacers and wheels, to prevent any future seizing.
Click to expand...

Good choice on steel. Aluminum will probably crack, whether loaded or not. I wasn't comfortable with the rates of expansion between the two dis-similar metals, nor the yield strength of the two metals. Steel is far superior for this application.

I put grease on all studs before putting lug nuts on, as a rule. My spacers are torqued at the recommended 140 Ft. Lbs. and wheels are torqued at 120.
 
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