rad cleaning

[haggus]

I got around to pulling the front cover off my 95 GMC. I was not surprised to see the amount of crud that was stuck in the rad behind the trans and oil cooler. I was surprised to see the the leaves twigs and needles stuck between the two larger rads. I can now see through the fins again. I modded the fan clutch spring to make it come on sooner I shortened the tab about 3/16" we will see how that works when I put it all back together tomorrow. I should probably look at a kennedy or heath cooling pump upgrade I guess. I am hoping that a good cleaning will reduce some of the temp climbs while towing my 5th wheel up hill. New injectors might help too I already put a DE 4" exhaust in and relocated the pmd. I'm putting EGT,TRANS TEMP, and BOOST gauge pillar together right now too so I hope to have that in a couple of days from now. Has anyone had decent coolant temps while pulling a 7000lb with just a good clean stock system uphill that seems when the temps rise fast I usually back way down on the speed to keep it at 95 deg celcius probably 30 mph. I guess I will find out next weekend when I tow my camper if it responds any different.


Haggus

 

[WarWagon]

Lower the working temperature of the system so that things come on sooner when you go WOT. Lower 180 T-Stat gets the radiator hot sooner. The hot air from the radiator warms up the thermal spring on the fan sooner. Then you wait for the fan to pump the fluid in itself to lock up and finally after the gauge passes 210 the fan comes on to stop the temp climb. So the lower T-Stat and fan clutch kick in temp lower the temp spike before the fan is on and holding the temp steady.

A high output water pump helps. Getting rid of the 6 blade fan makes a big difference and put in a 9 blade 20" fan or 21" duramax fan. The fan change requires a 4 bolt fan clutch vs the 6 bolt factory spec unit. The factory fan clutch is dead after 5 years as they loose 200 RPM per year. If the spring of yours was covered in crud - well the crud was the working fluid in the fan clutch. Without it the clutch will not lock up and stay locked up under load.

In other words get rid of the 6 blade fan and worn out fan clutch before they go to the scrap metal pile attached to a blown up 6.5. Been there done that.

When you are experimenting simply don't go over 210 on the gauge. Myself, I would change the fan and fan clutch now and water pump asap after that. Fan is available at a local Chevy dealer if time is an issue before towing.

 

[haggus]

Heath diesel sells the single thermostat kit with fan and clutch I was looking at a fluidampr HB anyway I guess I'm about to part with some money. It's definitely better than parting with my engine. I might as well add new injectors while I'm in there. I'm just cleaning the truck thoroughly for now. I checked the CDR using 3/8" diameter tubing ad it lifted about 2" at 2000 rpm so it looks good. Changed the oil last week now working on 3 pillar gauge mount and interior cleaning.

Haggus

 

[great white]

My 1998 never climbs past 185 F with clean rads.

Pulling this:

Right around 8000-8500 lbs loaded.

But mine is a 98, which supposedly has a factory "improved" cooling system. 185 also means someone has probably slipped in a couple 180F t-stats.

I run into EGT limits waaaaay earlier than ECT even shows on the radar..

That was before the 4" exhaust, 2.5" crossover, Turbo master and Heath towing tune.

Oh yeah, I'm also on Vancouver Island (Comox) so we've probably beat down some of the same roads.....

 

[88gmctruck]

I've never had my truck get above 180 or so even while towing, but it's a manual so there is one less radiator in the front of the truck.

I just cleaned my radiators when I did headgaskets, haven't driven it yet but it was really nasty in there.

 

[haggus]

Good to know the dual thermostat system works better. I haven't towed since I cleaned out the rad, but I will be running a short trip on Saturday to tr it out. I'm not expecting a huge change since from what I have been reading my fan clutch is most likely done in. That being said everything I thought might be bad has been good the previous owner was at least good at maintained upkeep. My HB and pulley look to be in awesome shape so I can probably not replace it for a while. I'm trying to figure out what's the best solution for the airbox I still run the stock flat filter. I will try the wreckers to see if I can grab a K47. AFFE is another option. I'm going to Seattle in Aug I think I will go to Heath Diesel and grab his single t-stat setup just to give the driver peace of mind.

GW how do you like the WMI that with the dual 180 t-stat would help you run cooler. I'm thinking I could add the Devil's own ver2 with the walking J stainless FTB mod. Would I need to change the IP timing for this mod.

Haggus

 

[great white]

Good to know the dual thermostat system works better. I haven't towed since I cleaned out the rad, but I will be running a short trip on Saturday to tr it out. I'm not expecting a huge change since from what I have been reading my fan clutch is most likely done in. That being said everything I thought might be bad has been good the previous owner was at least good at maintained upkeep. My HB and pulley look to be in awesome shape so I can probably not replace it for a while. I'm trying to figure out what's the best solution for the airbox I still run the stock flat filter. I will try the wreckers to see if I can grab a K47. AFFE is another option. I'm going to Seattle in Aug I think I will go to Heath Diesel and grab his single t-stat setup just to give the driver peace of mind.

Some say the single t-stat works better than the single. Meh, whatever, my duals seem to get the job done just fine. You could porbably just pick up one from the loacl wreckers and have the same crossover. Toss on a 98+ water pump and you should be good to go.

GW how do you like the WMI that with the dual 180 t-stat would help you run cooler.

The WMI isn't up and running yet, so I don't know. My controller got fried on install. I have another on order.

I'm thinking I could add the Devil's own ver2

Ver2?

Do you mean the progressive system or the difference from their original controller to the current version?

Either gets the job done fine. The only difference in the controllers is the original version powered the pump with a hot lead, the new one gives the pump ground instead of power. Well, the new one also has a dedicated map sensor line and water level low indicating function (needs an extra sensor).

Make sure you get a 3 bar controller....

with the walking J stainless FTB mod. Would I need to change the IP timing for this mod.

I've already got the ver2 FTB on my truck. The IP does not need to be changed. You simply remove the factory nipple in the IP and screw in the WalkingJ nipple. You do have to drill and tap the filter manager though...

 

[haggus]

Ver2?

Do you mean the progressive system or the difference from their original controller to the current version?

Either gets the job done fine. The only difference in the controllers is the original version powered the pump with a hot lead, the new one gives the pump ground instead of power. Well, the new one also has a dedicated map sensor line and water level low indicating function (needs an extra sensor).

Make sure you get a 3 bar controller....

Sorry I guess I meant Devils own stage 2 but I'm thinking if I only need it for a tow up the Malahat occasionally the stage 1 might do the trick. I would have used this when we went to Disneyland last August. The truck made it but I had some slow trips up the I-5 hills at times. The 101 was a nicer trip back.

Some say the single t-stat works better than the single. Meh, whatever, my duals seem to get the job done just fine. You could porbably just pick up one from the loacl wreckers and have the same crossover. Toss on a 98+ water pump and you should be good to go.

I guess the newer 9 blade fan clutch assembly would just bolt right to this or would 21" d-max fan work as well.

 

[handcannon]

I guess the newer 9 blade fan clutch assembly would just bolt right to this or would 21" d-max fan work as well.

The DMax fan will bolt to either the four bolt fan clutch, or the single large threaded shaft clutch. Both styles of clutch will bolt to the DMax fan. The difference is in the waterpump and fan combination you choose. So your choice is; late 90s HO pump with four bolts to the fan clutch and DMax fan, OR, 2000 balanced flow HO pump with threaded shaft to fan clutch and DMax fan.

Don

 

[Burning oil]

If changing out the WP, clutch and fan you might as well go with the 2000 set up. I might have the "hook up" on them. Working with a supplier now, but he is slow getting back to me.

 

[ak diesel driver]

If changing out the WP, clutch and fan you might as well go with the 2000 set up. I might have the "hook up" on them. Working with a supplier now, but he is slow getting back to me.

are you going to be supplying the restrictor fitting for the dual stats also?

 

[Burning oil]

Im still looking into if I can even be competitive at this point, but yes would like to offer it as well. On mine Im going to use the single stat xover from the 94 burb.

This question just came to me. Why could'int the dual stat bypass be capped off? Two pipe plugs??

 

[haggus]

The DMax fan will bolt to either the four bolt fan clutch, or the single large threaded shaft clutch. Both styles of clutch will bolt to the DMax fan. The difference is in the waterpump and fan combination you choose. So your choice is; late 90s HO pump with four bolts to the fan clutch and DMax fan, OR, 2000 balanced flow HO pump with threaded shaft to fan clutch and DMax fan.

Don/quote]

Thanks I guess it's off to NAPA or Lordco to have at these water pumps and fans up close. I called yesterday the pump is around 250.00 and the fanclutch was around 500.00 the fan shouldn't be more. I can get a used fan clutch with fan for 125.00. I can get a heath kit for 630.00.

 

[Chief915]

WOW.... That is REALLY expensive.....

Check on rockauto or from other sources....

 

[Burning oil]

quote]

Thanks I guess it's off to NAPA or Lordco to have at these water pumps and fans up close. I called yesterday the pump is around 250.00 and the fanclutch was around 500.00 the fan shouldn't be more. I can get a used fan clutch with fan for 125.00. I can get a heath kit for 630.00.

Yes shop around some more Pump should be $225 or less. Clutch $120ish. Fan $55ish All A/c delco parts too.

 

[haggus]

Yes shop around some more Pump should be $225 or less. Clutch $120ish. Fan $55ish All A/c delco parts too.

I can get the pump locally for 225.00 clutch fan the cheapest I found so far is 315.00 that is Delco parts or I can grab if from the wrecker for 125 that's fan clutch fan blade and shroud. I'm just worried about buying a tired fan clutch and having to get a new anyway a year or two from now.

 

[haggus]

WOW.... That is REALLY expensive.....

Check on rockauto or from other sources....

Do they ship to Canada. If they use UPS it's generally not worth it as the brokerage fee usually totals about 30% of the price been down that road with my exhaust I think it ended it up costing me more than if I bought it locally.

Haggus

 

[Chief915]

Do they ship to Canada. If they use UPS it's generally not worth it as the brokerage fee usually totals about 30% of the price been down that road with my exhaust I think it ended it up costing me more than if I bought it locally.

Haggus

Not sure if they ship to Canada..... If you go on their site you can add the parts you want to your cart and being the checkout process, it will give you the shipping costs to your zip code.

 

[haggus]

Rock Auto has the pump Heath recommended in his writeup from MaxxTorque AC Delco 88894035 260.76 and reverse rotation severe duty fan clutch for 147.00. Anyway I'm in the process of setting up EGT,Boost, and Trans Temp Pillar I left the pillar Black even though I have a grey Interior it matches the black gauges better.

 

[great white]

Do they ship to Canada. If they use UPS it's generally not worth it as the brokerage fee usually totals about 30% of the price been down that road with my exhaust I think it ended it up costing me more than if I bought it locally.

Haggus

UPS IIRC.



I bought my 4" Diamond eye exhaust from treasure valley diesel for 299. Shipping was 50.

I had to pay UPS 65 bucks at the door for "brokerage" and taxes.

That's about 415 all in.

I was quoted 500-600 bucks from Mike at Harbour City Diesel for a locally made 3" system without a "performance" muffler. All aluminized steel, no stainless.

He said if you can buy a 4" for less than that then he couldn't touch it.

How much did you pay for yours?