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Quick Spool Valve update

6.5L

6.5L

Old Iron Runner
Messages
1,177
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433
Location
Northwest Wyoming
Just in case anybody was wondering, I am still 110% happy with my quick spool valve. I am simply out of fueling though. Right now under WOT I am getting 20psi and EGT's have never exceeded 1000*. I have tried. It doesn't happen. I really want to add more fuel since I am already clean by about 2400rpm. I think I got some room to add more fueling. However, I dont think I can do this without headstuds. I am already at the limit of boost I feel safe running now on stock compression. So what are peoples opinions of headstuds? I'd like some good insight here. And before you ask, lowering compression is not an option.
 
Head studs are a good thing, most people have trouble getting them to seal out water from the top fine threads, some have used O-rings and such. The problem is that the water pressure will push water out the threads, here is my cure for that without anything complicated, I use Evans NPG+ coolant with a 0 pressure cap, no pressure in the cooling system to push out coolant, and there are added benefits to the coolant, check out there web site, it is a little pricey at first but works great and never goes bad. That's my cure for leaky head studs, and you can pull 1 bolt out at a time and install the studs.
 
Oh yeas, bring on the fuel! Glad to hear to hear its still working for you.

If your going with head studs why not go with the + .010 gaskets for lower compression?

Good luck with upgrades, really looking forward to hearing some more results.
 
The heads will not be removed for install, so I will not be going anywhere near the gaskets. And I do not beleive in lowering compression on these motors. Just my personal opinion. They are an IDI and I think need that high compression to run as effciently as possible. I know I cant argue with mine. Not having that fueling really bothers me though haha
 
High boost low compression will beat low boost high compression.
 
You can get better mpg with lower compression and higher boost? I also think at his elevation higher compression is a good idea.
 
I feel high compression is for both power and MPG. Power till the turbo is able to wind up anyway. Olds is famous for a high compression engine with a turbo the required anti detonation fluid. This combo made it quick off the line while the turbo was winding up. NOx is higher with higher compression and may be a reason to lower compression like the OEM's have been.

You have more fuel available by adding another 1/4 turn or more to the IP. I have run 2/3 turn and found the GM3 can't clean that much fuel up. But the ATT can use more than a 1/2 turn. It is about 50/50 to adjust the fuel through the side port or go through the top dissembling the throttle to get to the adjustment screw. The difficulty using a mirror and getting the adjustment wrench through the side is just as bad as tinkering with the throttle shaft, governor screw and internal springs. Careful not to loose the one in the middle of the governor adjustment shaft. Count the threads or you loose your top RPM cutoff adjustment.

I wouldn't change a bolt at a time over to head studs. You loose clamping force on the head gasket and the new studs have a different clamping force. Thus the head moves slightly on the gasket something old gaskets don't like. I suggest you do it right and pull the heads to switch over to studs. With high miles the old head gaskets could use a change anyway.

Some blue locktight used on the block side of the studs followed by torquing the studs into the block work well for sealing them up. I have used both red and blue and have had no leaks in extreme use. Yeah the red sealed studs will go with the block to scrap when the block fails. Locktight is KISS for preventing leaks as it seals threads as well as locking them together.

My headstuds have paid for themselves as I have had the heads off 3 times on one engine. They kept the head gasket sealing while the engine beat a 1/4 worm clamp and valves into a few pistons. The studs will keep the head gasket sealing and show you what else is weak enough to break first.

You may want to wait on studs till you blow something and need to pull the heads.
 
def go with studs i have had mine on two motors, the stock 215k motor and my new build. I did lower comp on both motors. I was running 28psi and i beat the hell out of my truck i flat foot it ALL the time no wories. I now have the ATT and never see more then 15psi. I used black RTV on top and bottom threads and never had a leak.
 
All these upgrades will probably be next summer or if things work out and some money comes in, this winter. But more than likely the summer. I need haeadstuds so bad
 
I studded the Dually and I stud every race motor I build now days. Saves block threads for later builds and just flat clamps better and more even.
 
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