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Quick & effective method of removing stubborn lower intake gasket remnants

drag sgt

Active Member
Messages
41
Reaction score
109
Location
Oregon, USA
I was unlucky the other day and had the upper intake thread tab break in half on my lower intake, so I had to source a yard unit and am in the process of replacing it. I don't know whether this is just 26 year old original gasket material or at some point it was replaced and glued on, but basically the bottom layer of the old gasket didn't come off. Now I'm left with a very stubborn material that wont' come up, and just kinda "mulches" the top layer when using a scraper. I tried using a small screwdriver to hopefully get under and lift, but no luck (and I don't want to scratch it too much). I'm really not looking forward to trying to get the pieces out from underneath the top radiator hose.

Is gasket remover effective? Or should I resort to something more aggressive like a small roloc bristle disc?

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Yeah, I'd be worried about the connectors and wiring if I went at it with a full torch. I do have a mini one my wife got me in a whisky smoking kit though, so I may try that as I can get the flame pretty small and controlled.
 
Yeah, I'd be worried about the connectors and wiring if I went at it with a full torch. I do have a mini one my wife got me in a whisky smoking kit though, so I may try that as I can get the flame pretty small and controlled.
Any thing that will heat the gasket will help to release the elastomers thats binding them onto heads and maneeefold.
 
I thought that too, but I ran into a lot of posts warning people not to do it on "in-vehicle" parts that can't be washed properly due to metal residues.
Those people never worked in a good mechanic shop. Thousands of mechanics from dealerships to “joes garage” across the country are doing it every single day.
This is exactly how the manufacturers say to do the repairs in the dealerships under warranty. What- they think rebuilding the whole engine because an intake manifold has to come off? Ridiculous.

If the parts are aluminum or composite: you have to use the proper one.
Cast iron-start with 36 grit if you are talented, 120 grit if newbie and just keep it moving. Don’t go full throttle and just sit still- aka use common sense.

Plug the ports well. Vacuum out debris before removing plugs. Then after the rags/towels/whatever is removed, use shop air at high pressure high volume to blow into the ports. The incoming air pressure will create blowback and push out any fine particles.
 
Those people never worked in a good mechanic shop. Thousands of mechanics from dealerships to “joes garage” across the country are doing it every single day.
This is exactly how the manufacturers say to do the repairs in the dealerships under warranty. What- they think rebuilding the whole engine because an intake manifold has to come off? Ridiculous.

If the parts are aluminum or composite: you have to use the proper one.
Cast iron-start with 36 grit if you are talented, 120 grit if newbie and just keep it moving. Don’t go full throttle and just sit still- aka use common sense.

Plug the ports well. Vacuum out debris before removing plugs. Then after the rags/towels/whatever is removed, use shop air at high pressure high volume to blow into the ports. The incoming air pressure will create blowback and push out any fine particles.
I use synthetic sponges. The kind with the tiny holes.
 
Well I managed to get it all up with minimal scratching--it took multiple rounds of engine degreaser soaks and a loose razor blade. I had to take the upper radiator hose off because I couldn't contort myself well enough to reach the farthest corners. Now the real challenge is getting the intake back on without destroying the gaskets. I've got the entire harness bungee-d up and pulled out of the way, but on a newer truck the heater and A/C hoses make it difficult.
 
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