• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

questions on how to turn up my injection pump

Cannot see any details in the signature, so for what kind of truck?

If it is a manual injection system (DB2 injection pump), there are threads on how to turn the screw a bit (something like 1/4 turn is sufficient). Just search around a bit as even Banks some details on this.

If it is an electronic injection system (DS4 IP), will need to get with somebody whom does a tune to re-map the fuel curves. There is also plenty of commentary about using a different resistor in the PMD (to 'fool' the computer into calling for more fuel), but personally remain unsold that this is effective long term as this merely tricks the computer into staying out of balance. So, my vote is to do fuel adjustments with the computer's data and not with a resistor.


In both cases (DB2 or DS4), the Feed The Beast (FTB) mod will help get more fuel.

Another item is the lift pump. Getting something better than the OE pump has strong evidence that it helps feed the injection pump when under load (or more specifically, keeping it from starving).


There is commentary about using different injectors (OE versus Marine), but from everything I have read the only benefit marine injectors have over OE is around the 2,500 RPM range (maybe a little higher, maybe a little lower, but that RPM is what I have on the mind). OE injectors are noted as flowing better below that.
 
Although Jay has a bunch of good info there, I will say only 1 thing is needed before turning up fuel screw, a pyrometer. You can burn holes in Pistons, burn valves, etc from over fueling. If your injectors are worn, and you over fuel you WILL destroy the engine. As long as you are good with all that...

You have to be TDC compression. On the driver side there is a small cover with 2 screws. Pull it off. Inside is a shaft with a hole through it. The screw sets in there. 1/8 turn is plenty unless you have other upgrades to support.

Really need to know details about your truck. To help better, and make sure this is t going to give you a pile of scrap metal.

Btw, If your trying to roll coal, just light the fuel tank on fire. You'll get more smoke and have more useable engine parts to sell the next day.
 
My truck has 200754 on the odo,I'm the second owner and have the original matiance log. I got it for 700.00$ and had to rebuild the starter. Since owned I've done minor DIY modifications, cold air intake, manual waste gate, 3" straight pipe, turned up torsion bar's to max, put a 185 degree thermostat,some LED's and BFG 295/75R16 all terrains. I am pushing about 13lbs of boost .
 
DO NOT turn in the fuel screw yet! Get a set of new injectors in there first. Post what you find before you buy them, lot of rip off artists out there give bs blanket claims and selling junk.

Get the set from Leroy and your good to go. You'll still need a pyro...

You understand 200,000 on the clock means you're doing upgrades to reuse on your new engine when this one let's go under the added stress, right?
 
I put a ton of stress on my old motor with 378 and it was fine. I wouldn't worry much about it. Just check the maintenance factors before adding power. Like fuel pressure, adequate cooling radiator that isn't covered in debris, make sure your damper is in good shape, make sure no fuel leaks or boost leaks, working CDR valve. Things like that. All more crucial than power. Take care of the motor.
 
My truck has 200754 on the odo,I'm the second owner and have the original matiance log. I got it for 700.00$ and had to rebuild the starter. Since owned I've done minor DIY modifications, cold air intake, manual waste gate, 3" straight pipe, turned up torsion bar's to max, put a 185 degree thermostat,some LED's and BFG 295/75R16 all terrains. I am pushing about 13lbs of boost .
Could you find me something in the price range? A good runner. I don't care if it's beat.

I hear about these deals a lot, but I never find them
 
Could you find me something in the price range? A good runner. I don't care if it's beat.

I hear about these deals a lot, but I never find them
I second that. Around here people want $2500 for one that doesn't even run AND rusted out. Hell, I had to pay $2700 for my suburban with a failing transmission, paint flaking off and a blown brake line. Couldn't even test drive it except for about 5 mph around the guys tiny parking lot. Was a rust free one owner 4x4 diesel suburban though....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top