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Question: ARP studs sealant

Norwegiandiesel

Norwegiandiesel

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Hi.
Going to do my head gaskets. .010 thicker and ARP studs. Should I use RTV sealant (like blue Permatex) or should I use Locktite thread sealer like the blue one or aother suitable Locktite?(Lots to choose from)
Thanks.
 
The manual specs out to use LOCTITE blue medium strength thread sealant for bolts, bot sure if this is true for studs or not.
 
I have used both blue and then red LOCTITE on 2 different 6.2's. I then tighten the studs into the block by double nutting the top of the stud and tightening as much as I can with a wrench. Then I put the heads on and the head nuts. I have not had any leaks. I don't recommend red, but, it was what I had on hand at the time.
 
you should use ARP's thread sealer/lube,never tighten studs down tight,they should thread in by hand
 
dmaxx3500 said:
you should use ARP's thread sealer/lube,never tighten studs down tight,they should thread in by hand
Click to expand...

This theory sucks. You want the studs tight because they can turn during the tightening process. So rather than risk breaking the locktight loose, and ruining the seal, in the block during tightening I would rather have them snugged down or tight.
The ARP stuff in the box allows leaks.

So if it wasn't for the leaks that result from ARP's instructions they would be fine. I was lucky and had other members go before me and post up about leaks. So I was able to solve the problem before it started.
 
If you use loctite, let them setup in the block before torquing them down. I just use Liquid Permatex sealer, its all you really need, plus it smells like pine needles, lol.

WarWagon said:
This theory sucks. You want the studs tight because they can turn during the tightening process. So rather than risk breaking the locktight loose, and ruining the seal, in the block during tightening I would rather have them snugged down or tight.
The ARP stuff in the box allows leaks.

So if it wasn't for the leaks that result from ARP's instructions they would be fine. I was lucky and had other members go before me and post up about leaks. So I was able to solve the problem before it started.
Click to expand...

No, go to ARP and they explain it, you DO NOT want them tight, you want them loose or snug.

They are broached for a reason, this is one of them.
 
Hi.
Different theories out there I've to say :)
Turbovanman: When you say Liquid Permatex, does that include Loctite liquid thread lockers and sealers as well? (After all they're same company with different brand names, aren't they?) Possible for you to provide me a Permatex part#? Thanks
In an old The Diesel Page(TDP) print it's said that GM replaced RTV sealer with Loctite 242 at some point.
 
WarWagon said:
This theory sucks. You want the studs tight because they can turn during the tightening process. So rather than risk breaking the locktight loose, and ruining the seal, in the block during tightening I would rather have them snugged down or tight.
The ARP stuff in the box allows leaks.

So if it wasn't for the leaks that result from ARP's instructions they would be fine. I was lucky and had other members go before me and post up about leaks. So I was able to solve the problem before it started.
Click to expand...

since ive built and worked with high dollar race engines-all my life and talked to ARP for 25+ years ,ive been told you dont tighten down studs as it wrecks the clamping force of studs by tightening them to the last thread/bottom of the hole,when you use ARP thread lube/sealent it sets up a bond/seal in the threads,,read their cataloge,they have great tips/facts about using their products,they build studs/bolts/fasteners for NHRA/NASCAR/NASA/U.S. MILITARY AND ANYBODY ELSE that needs quality parts,,they have millions of dollars of testing equipment to prove it,

also see those eng's in my avator,i built them,they are 3-600''-800hp big block chevys,that will run for a lot of hrs at full throttle and work for hundreds of hours using ARP studs and fasteners
 
dmaxx3500 said:
since ive built and worked with high dollar race engines-all my life and talked to ARP for 25+ years ,ive been told you dont tighten down studs as it wrecks the clamping force of studs by tightening them to the last thread/bottom of the hole,when you use ARP thread lube/sealent it sets up a bond/seal in the threads,,read their cataloge,they have great tips/facts about using their products,they build studs/bolts/fasteners for NHRA/NASCAR/NASA/U.S. MILITARY AND ANYBODY ELSE that needs quality parts,,they have millions of dollars of testing equipment to prove it,

also see those eng's in my avator,i built them,they are 3-600''-800hp big block chevys,that will run for a lot of hrs at full throttle and work for hundreds of hours using ARP studs and fasteners
Click to expand...

I welcome the discussion on this. Again my point is that with the instructions in the box we have folks on here o ringing the studs to stop leaks. Thus regardless of research ARP has overlooked an issue on these 6.x engines. These things happen. I have emailed them on their site and asked for a comment about this problem and the method I suggested. Perhaps they will have a different solution to 6.x engines. Hopefully update the instructions in the box, because it doesn't call for sealer - just lube and that clearly leaks.

My real concern is the shoulder of the stud dimpling the block and making a high spot around the bolt hole by tightening then into the block. I do not understand how a pre-tightned stud would reduce clamping force perhaps you can explain that in depth. To me it's tight and would hold the same on the shoulder or the bottom of the hole. :shrug:

I have had the heads off one engine at least 3 times that I recall including pounding a worm clamp into the head and piston. The ARP's held the gasket seal while eating the clamp. So right or wrong this appears to be working on 2 engines with 60K and 30K on the studs so far.
 
from what im told,by tightening down the studs tight,you screw-up the thread interferance fit,,,,ARP makes a thread/assembly lube for the nuts/washers and head part of the studs,,sealent is used on the part of the stud you screw into the block,,all thread holes should have the threads chased [studs should be test threaded into block]and cleaned with carb/brake cleaner/laquer thinner,the studs should be cleaned the same way[they come coated with protectant oil],thread sealent should applied to studs then THREADED into block-FINGER TIGHT,,please go to ''ARP-BOLTS.COM'',open up their 2013 cataloge,read their tips,,they work,and its cool to se how studs/bolts/nuts and washers are made too
 
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