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Pyrometer probe installation "screw-up"

bucholzi

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I installed the probe for a bully dog pyrometer today, but messed it up a bit :rolleyes5: I did not have the proper drill size for the 1/8" NPT tap, and the tap itself was from a cheap set and was apparantly made out of butter or something. In short: I ended up with a hole that was to big and had to go 1/4" npt, which I had proper tools for. So I put an adapter/fitting between so could install the 1/8" NPT fitting from bully dog. Will this affect the probe's reading as it's sticking shorter into the manifold?
 
how far back did the bushing offset the probe? IMO, as long as the tip is close to the middle of the pipe. where did you install the probe? pre-turbo or post turbo?
 
I believe it needs to stick in 1/8 inch, at least that's what mine required. It's funny how you remember things like that when you read the directions. I usually don't until I realize I screwed something up. Then it's just part of the investigation.
 
If I wanted it to be absolutely perfect what i'd do is take a dremel cut off wheel and remove some of the adapter fitting so the probe fits more flush. is it necessary well how much adapter fitting is sticking. i assume maybe 1/4 inch. to that end i dunno. what I do know is when I did my pryo I tested the drill and tap on a small piece of aluminium. But it's all to easy to say hindsight. Ed
 
The instructions doesn't say anything, but I would guess it is calibrated to the original fitting.. :confused: I would say that it has been pulled about 1 cm. I have been trying to find an adapter with a 1/4" MPT and with 1/8" compression fitting (not sure what the threads are called) but that proved to be difficult.. Only thing is a weld on bung, but then again I could just the same weld the fitting to the manifold, but it is a bit of a bitch to reach all the way round with the mig.

It's fitted in the passenger side manifold, where I could access it behind the mudguard. It's the point where it "collects" before going upwards to the turbo.
 
Why dont you put a plug in the hole and drill/tap another one higher up in the square patch just underneath the turbo

I was thinking just that, or more correctly drill a new hole in the manifold on the drivers side since the wiring was to short to reach my pillar gauge pod, and the wires apparently is not supposed to be lengthened :rolleyes5: Well, I blame my own ignorance about pyros and the crappy instructions.

Well, I'll just run it for now since I would need a correct sized drill bit and preferably a proper tap. It works, 450-550 at cruise and easily climbed to 1000 at hills and with heavy throttle, with no load :eek: That made me rethink my plans about a chip..
 
Well, I'll just run it for now since I would need a correct sized drill bit and preferably a proper tap. It works, 450-550 at cruise and easily climbed to 1000 at hills and with heavy throttle, with no load :eek: That made me rethink my plans about a chip..

You do realize that a well engineered chip will have lower EGTs, don't you?
 
You do realize that a well engineered chip will have lower EGTs, don't you?

Really? I usually get tons of warnings about chipping, saying that the advanced timing increases heat and that it "WILL lead to engine failure, but by all means have fun while it lasts.." Those who claim to know about the 6.5td usually builds their engines with better exhaust (including crossover and downpipe) and better lift pump with increased fuel flow to IP, and keep the stock chip.
 
With my stock F programming I would hit 1300* easy at WOT. With the Heath Max-E-
Tork I am running now, I was hard pressed to exceed 1100* coming through the mountains of West Virginia with 10K lbs in tow. The old tunes would do nothing more than throw fuel to the motor and change the shift points. The new tunes re-map the fuel delivery curve and add boost to keep everything in check. It has been proven that the new tunes will prolong the life of the engine.

Of course, do not perform these mods without a full compliment of gauges to keep everything in check.

This is the order that I did my mods in:

a. K&N Filter
b. 4" Exhaust
c. Gauges
d. Heath Max-E-Tork tuning
e. Turbo-master
f. Hi-output injectors

You are wise to be doing the gauges first.
 
With my stock F programming I would hit 1300* easy at WOT. With the Heath Max-E-
Tork I am running now, I was hard pressed to exceed 1100* coming through the mountains of West Virginia with 10K lbs in tow. The old tunes would do nothing more than throw fuel to the motor and change the shift points. The new tunes re-map the fuel delivery curve and add boost to keep everything in check. It has been proven that the new tunes will prolong the life of the engine.

Of course, do not perform these mods without a full compliment of gauges to keep everything in check.

This is the order that I did my mods in:

a. K&N Filter
b. 4" Exhaust
c. Gauges
d. Heath Max-E-Tork tuning
e. Turbo-master
f. Hi-output injectors

You are wise to be doing the gauges first.

Well, all but the injectors are done, and I've been looking into a chip from engh motors in Sweden, but have been awaiting the pyro. I reckon the chips from Engh are comparable the heath chips in the way it tunes the engine..
 
After running the Heath 2.0 for about three years I went back to the stock chip while my chip was being reworked to the GL4. I was shocked at the EGT's with the stock chip. My truck normally runs at about 450 - 500 deg at 65mph and the Heath tune. With the stock chip I was easily seeing 700 - 800 deg. The GL4 seems to run about the same on EGT's as the 2.0 did.
 
Well, all but the injectors are done, and I've been looking into a chip from engh motors in Sweden, but have been awaiting the pyro. I reckon the chips from Engh are comparable the heath chips in the way it tunes the engine..

I don't know much about Engh but have heard good things about them. I would PM Buddy as he is running one of their chips and seems to like it.
 
Really? I usually get tons of warnings about chipping, saying that the advanced timing increases heat and that it "WILL lead to engine failure, but by all means have fun while it lasts.." Those who claim to know about the 6.5td usually builds their engines with better exhaust (including crossover and downpipe) and better lift pump with increased fuel flow to IP, and keep the stock chip.

Who's warnings you been following, abviously somebody that is mis-informed, 5 years into my performance reflashed program, that has has not been babied in the least, still making it down the highway with ease these days, coming close to 176K, 140K on it since I've owned it. heath IMO is best program out there, same one that set 6.5 speed record @ 153 mph at Bonneville last year
 
Chips won't be the sole cause of overheating, and as many said here, they will often lower your EGT's by controlling your engine operation more efficiently.

As for the probe, if I was you, I would install it in the crossover right below the left side manifold.

The X-over can be easily removed for tapping and drilling and then cleaning out any metal that has fallen inside.

I have had mine there, and feel more comfortable knowing that I have a little longer to back off the throttle when the needle is climbing.

As for the chips, once again, I have turned up the pump on my MFI truck, the rough equivalent of chipping it. Way more power, better MPG, and lower EGT's while towing. Pulled a 16,000Lb trailer on the highway, and was able to ensure that EGT's stayed reasonable without blocking off a lane of traffic.
 
I was speaking with Bill Heath awhile ago when I ordered my exhaust system from him. I asked if it was equipped with a boss for the pyrometer. He said it was in the crossover and that was the best place to them.

Art
 
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