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Putting together a 6.5 optimizer long block

fish24711.bb

fish24711.bb

Member
Messages
94
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10
Location
cda idaho
i plan on restoring an 85 burb with 3.42 gears and a 4 speed gonna take optimizer long block ateam turbo db2 moose pump a build a boat tower looking for advice on setup, what to do with tge ops port? Stuff like that. Any body here do builds?
 
If you're looking for an engine builder contact Chris @twistedsteelperformance on here. He did some amazing work on a P400 for me, can't recommend him enough if you're looking to bomb proof this platform as much as one can. My build thread is long overdue, life certainly has its way of going sideways but keep an eye out for it sooner than later...
 
DieselAmateur said:
If you're looking for an engine builder contact Chris @twistedsteelperformance on here. He did some amazing work on a P400 for me, can't recommend him enough if you're looking to bomb proof this platform as much as one can. My build thread is long overdue, life certainly has its way of going sideways but keep an eye out for it sooner than later...
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I would rather have someone do it i know how i want it done just lacking time thinking ateam turbo moose pump tge works
 
fish24711.bb said:
I would rather have someone do it i know how i want it done just lacking time thinking ateam turbo moose pump tge works
Click to expand...

I hear ya, and from personal experience Chris will do whatever you want and give expert advice along the way. Certain things I wasn't comfortable doing by myself like head studs were done by him and I have no reservations about the work standing up over time.

Believe it or not, it was cheaper for me to send the entire engine to Chris as opposed to sending heads for porting or pistons for coating etc. Cost me only ~$230.00 to ship a crate motor from upstate NY to his shop in SC

Chris has done his own R&R with towing turbos and has precise specs for the best hybrid Holset, it's on my wish list, gotta do the intercooler first, also compliment's of Chris sharing his design...

This is motivating me to get my build info out there so you can see what I did, look at my sig I gave the motor the works, timing gears ceramic coatings etc. I really want to go mechanical on the IP too, the finicky ecm timing is wearing my patience
 
fish24711.bb said:
Check out the baby moose or big moose manual pumps 😲
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Idk about that, their percentage of people’s problems they had through them kinda scared me away. I get hot rod parts can have issues but they have to stand behind them better than what that have recently. If a person could gamble that amount and not care if it doesn’t pay off then ok. But usually those folks aren’t playing with idi diesel...
 
fish24711.bb said:
i plan on restoring an 85 burb with 3.42 gears and a 4 speed gonna take optimizer long block ateam turbo db2 moose pump a build a boat tower looking for advice on setup, what to do with tge ops port? Stuff like that. Any body here do builds?
Click to expand...
89

I am a builder per say, i mostly perform custom builds no other shop offers for these motors, their isn't much i can't cover. I have developed custom machining processes for pistons, heads, blocks, etc done on cnc machines. Most folks don't know what the real cost is to have a true custom engine built, everyone wants the works but when they see the cost, well you get the picture.....

What budget ya have in mind?
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
89

I am a builder per say, i mostly perform custom builds no other shop offers for these motors, their isn't much i can't cover. I have developed custom machining processes for pistons, heads, blocks, etc done on cnc machines. Most folks don't know what the real cost is to have a true custom engine built, everyone wants the works but when they see the cost, well you get the picture.....

What budget ya have in mind?
Click to expand...
5500 or so
 
Will L. said:
Idk about that, their percentage of people’s problems they had through them kinda scared me away. I get hot rod parts can have issues but they have to stand behind them better than what that have recently. If a person could gamble that amount and not care if it doesn’t pay off then ok. But usually those folks aren’t playing with idi diesel...
Click to expand...

My issue with about every pump builder out there is not one of them puts out a product that truly upgrades ALL the areas of the pump. Conestoga is the worst, R&D & CCD do a better job. But even they drop the ball on ULSD upgraded parts.

The funny part about "hotrod" pumps is it only takes two spring upgrades... that's it to go from mild to wild. But calibrating the pump after these two spring changes is the key to unlocking all the extra fueling. But as you start increasing the R-R spec other upgrades are needed to keep the pump together. Mostly the cam pin, something only R&D and CCD offer at this time.

Besides performance upgrades, ULSD conversion parts in my opinion are a must on these almost 40 year old pump design. R&D and CCD are at least sleeving the advance piston bore. Which was an issue even before ULSD. But not one of the 3 builders I've mentioned upgrades the transfer pump or other areas to handle ULSD. I'm sure they would if you asked. But in my opinion that should be part of a standard rebuild. Worth the extra money!

Its because of this I have spent the last year doing research and development on DB2 pumps. I think I can put together a pump that is better than anything being offered even the NEW stanadyne units. The first prototype is coming of the bench later this summer.

To be fair to Conestoga a little what happened to Spdgofast's pump may not have been their fault. There is only 2 ways to build a .350 8 cylinder pump. 1. Increase the plunger bore. 2. Swap a .350 rotor into a 8 cylinder head. The 1st way I've seen ZERO success getting it to survive. Not a single pump has ran very long after the plunger bore was machined. The 2nd way is possible but the H&R are a machined pair. So finding a .350 rotor to properly fit a 8 cylinder head would be a challenge. If I was was to build a pump with either of those two modifications it would be hard to offer a warranty because I know that there will more than likely be an issue down the road.

But building a standard "Hotrod" pump should definitely come with a warranty. Because again its just 2 springs being changed. And if the builder is smart a upgraded cam pin to handle the extra fuel.
 
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Rockabillyrat said:
My issue with about every pump builder out there is not one of them puts out a product that truly upgrades ALL the areas of the pump. Conestoga is the worst, R&D & CCD do a better job. But even they drop the ball on ULSD upgraded parts.

The funny part about "hotrod" pumps is it only takes two spring upgrades... that's it to go from mild to wild. But calibrating the pump after these two spring changes is the key to unlocking all the extra fueling. But as you start increasing the R-R spec other upgrades are needed to keep the pump together. Mostly the cam pin, something only R&D and CCD offer at this time.

Besides performance upgrades, ULSD conversion parts in my opinion are a must on these almost 40 year old pump design. R&D and CCD are at least sleeving the advance piston bore. Which was an issue even before ULSD. But not one of the 3 builders I've mentioned upgrades the transfer pump or other areas to handle ULSD. I'm sure they would if you asked. But in my opinion that should be part of a standard rebuild. Worth the extra money!

Its because of this I have spent the last year doing research and development on DB2 pumps. I think I can put together a pump that is better than anything being offered even the NEW stanadyne units. The first prototype is coming of the bench later this summer.

To be fair to Conestoga a little what happened to Spdgofast's pump may not have been their fault. There is only 2 ways to build a .350 8 cylinder pump. 1. Increase the plunger bore. 2. Swap a .350 rotor into a 8 cylinder head. The 1st way I've seen ZERO success getting it to survive. Not a single pump has ran very long after the plunger bore was machined. The 2nd way is possible but the H&R are a machined pair. So finding a .350 rotor to properly fit a 8 cylinder head would be a challenge. If I was was to build a pump with either of those two modifications it would be hard to offer a warranty because I know that there will more than likely be an issue down the road.

But building a standard "Hotrod" pump should definitely come with a warranty. Because again its just 2 springs being changed. And if the builder is smart a upgraded cam pin to handle the extra fuel.
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Building pumps yet?
 
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