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push button 4wd light blinking( service 4wd)

ok cool, lol im still trying to find out where they grounded this. perhaps its still good? the fuse is still new and it test ok 12 plus at the fuse 12 plus at the plug. ill try and find the ground. so far the manual I have says little about ground locations but I didn't have much time to look at the manual. ill read it tonight
 
MrMarty51 said:
Okay, when You test for voltage at the FDA, did You use the ground within the plug for testing purposes ?
Sometimes there can be a bad ground through the olug, or maybe a broke grounding wire.
But too, I am not sure that the actuator does ground through the plug. You will have to check that out to find out if it does.
Click to expand...
yes I only tested it at the plug itself. I haven't located the ground yet
 
I, THINK, that one of the wires within the plug might be a ground.
Put the multimeter on ohms scale, then, probe one of the meters wires to a good ground source and the other multimeter wire to each of the connectors within the plug that goes to the electrical systemw. See if one of those wires shows a direct ground.
A wiring schematic would be helpful in this situation. I have one in the garage, just not going out there tonight to see. If nothing pops up in the morning I’ll go out and snap a pic of it.
 
yup got no continuity to the ground wire (solid black wire) on the actuator after lunch im going to make a jumper and see if this actuator still works. I still can't find the right schematic for my truck lol I never thought that would be a problem.
 
im new to doing electrical work on my vehicles but I think I get by on the basics. that being said Im kinda at a loss on this project and looking into the Posi-lok idea perhaps in the future. so I found that I had no ground continuity in the plug. I tried using a jumper to see if I could get this actuator to operate and.....nothing!!!!! im baffled. im going to try and replace the switch and the actuator. what do you guys think? its about $80 to find out if this solves my problem. I sure hope so. the switch in there looks original judging by the discoloration of the pins. not sure if I did every test I could have to determine why the actuator isn't working but at this point im hoping im doing the right thing and just replace both the switch and the actuator. ill keep you guys posted
 
Okay. I went all through the wiring diagrams of this Chilton book. There is diagrams for everything, except, the transfer case and front differential actuator. I went into the drive train section, no diagrams in there either.
Here is a pic of the diagram. I even looked under all the different gasser models. Nothing.
F15FBADF-1B31-4493-AEF3-18A35ACD35BA.jpeg
 
Thanks I appreciate the effort. I’m not sure the company I went through even grounded this actuator where any manual would have listed it anyway. Maybe, maybe not I traced the ground wire up above the transmission somewhere. But I should have had some kind of function in the actuator with the jumper wire. I tried a few solid grounds with 0 resistance so I’m sure the actuator is dead. Just to rule out the switch as a problem I’m changing the switch as well. I’m hoping this solves the problem for the winter. I can’t wait to do a solid axel swap on this truck. I’m sticking with a gas motor for this build. My next project will be a Duramax Allison build. One can dream anyway lol.
 
@THEFERMANATOR Is there a trouble shooting sequence for the 246 with auto option ? Picked up a 2000 , 1500 gasser. service 4wd light flashing, was not in fwd but after putting it in 4 low it went to 4 hi and will m not go into 2wd . I read somewhere about pulling the negative cable and it will go back to 2wd (unverified) as of now. no codes on obd link. Having trouble with tech2 it will not communicate with truck or any of my newer stuff either.
 
smokymtn65 said:
@THEFERMANATOR Is there a trouble shooting sequence for the 246 with auto option ? Picked up a 2000 , 1500 gasser. service 4wd light flashing, was not in fwd but after putting it in 4 low it went to 4 hi and will m not go into 2wd . I read somewhere about pulling the negative cable and it will go back to 2wd (unverified) as of now. no codes on obd link. Having trouble with tech2 it will not communicate with truck or any of my newer stuff either.
Click to expand...
You need the tech2 to read 246 codes.
 
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