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pump timing?

kcrossman said:
Ok thats where ill put the probe. and it runs good now, i was just wondering if you were supposed to adjust the pump timing with adjusting the db2 pump.

I dont know what my boost levels are right now but im not driving the truck either. i bought it from the kid just after he turned the adjustment screw up. and its only been driven like 9 or 10 mile with it adjusted. as for smoke there is a little blue smoke on start up and then it turns to a whitish gray smoke. there is no black smoke at all when revving it up.. before he adjsted the pump he said it used to smoke black.
Click to expand...

Sounds like he may have turned the pump down, not up if the black smoke is gone.
 
Verify with the kid what way he turned the screw and how much. 1/4 turn? maybe he had to pass emissions?
No need to recalibrate the pump. You just get an EGR gauge and boost gauge.

You have a lot of things to check. I would start with making sure the glow plug system is working properly. This includes the cold advance system, usually the switch in the coolant crossover fails open. Check for voltage at the solenoid that opens the throttle key on engine off and stone cold. Then you need to get airflow fixed. Remove the fender snorkel. Get a 4" exhaust if it doesn't have one already with a 3" downpipe. Next if you are going to turn up the pump you need a turbomaster to get the boost up to 14 PSI max. A 1/4 turn up in the IP from stock and 14 PSI of boost wakes these engines up. A gray haze that you see in headlights is the max you want to turn up the pump. Black smoke when WOT and the cold advance is on is perfect.

The black smoke is ok if it is a puff while the turbo spools up. More/longer than that is an airflow restriction or exhaust leak before the turbo. Intake leaks also can loose boost. These engines use a lot of air and the fender seals let a lot of dirt in, there is a TSB to seal the fender. In short these plug air filters fast.
 
the PO said that he turned it right as in righty tighty lefty loosy (how he described it).. as for black smoke there is none at all.. i have the stock 3 inch downpipe still where i put a 3 to 4 adapter and i am working on building a 4 inch tailpipe... gotta love local garages doing school bus exhaust.. i bought a egt gauge and a boost gauge. the egt is a 1200 degree one and the boost gauge is 15 psi one.

how do i drill the egt gauge hole without getting the shaving in the exhaust?
do i just choose anywhere on the intake to put the boost tap?
how do i make the turbomatser cause i really dont wanna buy one.
 
The geometry needs to be right on a TM or you will be forever adjusting it. The only way IMHO to make one would be to copy one. For what it cost, it wasn't worth my time but that was my choice. The best way to drill the ex manifold is to pull the turbo, drop a magnet in and then shop vac it out but I have heard plenty of people just drill and tap it with the truck running so the pressure blows it out. I always did them in conjunction with Injs so I had the turbo off anyway. Anywhere in the Upper intake should be fine. Most do it in the side of the upper, some go in the top. Leroy sells a boost bolt if you are leary about drilling and tapping. I was never in love wiht Boost bolts on Cummins because they snap from the vibration but I have never heard of that issue with a 6.5. Pretty much everything snaps or comes loose on a cummins.
 
ok does the truck running work cause i dont really wanna take my trubo off. should i just do the homemade turbomaster. what spring should i use?
 
I think doing it running will be ok. It's not like it could get into the engine anyway just the turbo but still. I have no idea on the TM. I always just bought it.
 
Some things are worth paying for. A TM from Kennedy Diesel or Heath Diesel will work as advertized. Your plain ole can spring, bailing wire, etc. All have to overcome the opening moment and not open too far to drop off boost and oscillate with the boost going up and down. There are several bolt holes and a special angle the TM's have on them to work smoothly. A stronger adjustable spring on the factory can has been done by others.

The Heath TM I purchased for my 1993 was adjusted 3 times in 45K miles. The initial adjustment, adjustment at altitude to stop boost creep from redlining the turbo over 15 PSI, and again after a lift pump replacement. It was adjusted once on the second truck after it was moved from the trashed turbo that ate Elk and broken truck parts... So after you adjust it properly for max boost under a load and altitude you can more or less forget about it.

Drill with the engine running. Otherwise you have to pull the manifold. Use grease on the tap to catch metal shavings. Also can be tapped with the engine running...
 
ok ill drill it with the motor running.. what the bwest place to mount the gauges? i was thinking a pillar pod but dont really wanna spend the money. i guess ill just turn the pump back down untill i can afford a TM..
 
ok sweet cause i sat in my truck and couldn't find a good viewing position for them.. but the pillar seems to be the best so far..

Thanks a lot everyone i have never felt so welcome in a forum before. all the powerstroke and cummins gus would never respond but you guys helped me out a lot and fast
 
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